I took my lx in to the shop today. The repair guy put it on the rack and we were able to inspect the underside of the vehicle. I knew my boots were seaping a little, but I thought it was only at the band. Turns out the inboard boot is torn. All of the shops around here refuse to reboot and axle, and want to replace with a aftermarket. I am going to have the repair shop remove the axle and I am going to take it and have it rebooted at a local shop that specializes in rebooting axles. I am planning on getting a set of oem boots. What else do you guys recommend I get from Toyota besides the boot kit? I know this topic has been covered, but I've read and read and my head is sorta spinning with all of the info I have.
Axle reboot
- Thread starter Rcmay
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
One day someone will release a new axle and boot as there is a market here for something else.... come on vendors bring us something that will not cost the bank and will turn my IFS into a solid front end. 
- Thread starter
- #4
Aren't there parts that aren't included in the kit and will be needed when putting the axle back in
2001LC
SILVER Star
You'll need to inspect the new axle to make sure it comes with inboard dust cover & outboard dust seal. I've seen some missing these. Also make sure they orient inboard snap ring open end down, when installing axle into differential.
1. Replace the differential oil seal, so it can seat with new front drive shaft.
2. Replace the hub flange snap ring with proper thickness to get <.20mm gap. Make sure gap is checked with axle pulled out hard, most shop don't even check.
3. Replace the grease cap if bent or nick around seal.
CV Swap / Wheel Bearings / AHC Lift / Other Needed Items???
Pulling axle to check snap ring gap.
![01 LC wheel hub flange 003[1].JPG](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/01-lc-wheel-hub-flange-003-1-jpg.1359396/ "01 LC wheel hub flange 003[1].JPG")
1. Replace the differential oil seal, so it can seat with new front drive shaft.
2. Replace the hub flange snap ring with proper thickness to get <.20mm gap. Make sure gap is checked with axle pulled out hard, most shop don't even check.
3. Replace the grease cap if bent or nick around seal.
CV Swap / Wheel Bearings / AHC Lift / Other Needed Items???
Pulling axle to check snap ring gap.
Where could I buy different snap rings? I couldn't even get a regular replacement snap ring from auto parts stores locally.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Kurt stocks Cruiser Outfitters. Or local Toyota / Lexus Dealer will have or can order. They come in different thickness, which until assemble you'll not know which you'll need. You can order a set to have on hand. Or size, assemble and drive until proper size arrives. It easy to replace after job is done.
2001LC
SILVER Star
One more tip: If wheel bearings haven't been packed in over 30K miles, have done. Read up on procedure, key is breakaway preload done with pull spring scale (fish scale). If shop can't explain procedure correctly, you're in wrong place.
jemsec
Mach lll Club
You might consider replacing wheel bearings and all other inner hub parts at your mileage. Cruiser Outfitters can make up a kit to include seals and several thickness rings to be sure you have ones that fit. Give him a call for advice.
Hope these aren't dumb questions.
Have had various Landcruisers for 20years or longer. Why must you pull the axle out and measure for less than .2 mm gap of the hub flange snap ring? Never done it.
Also why do you orient the inner snap ring in the downward position when fitting the axle into the diff housing? Is there a groove that lines up with the snap ring groove? Again never done it, but happy to learn.
Have had various Landcruisers for 20years or longer. Why must you pull the axle out and measure for less than .2 mm gap of the hub flange snap ring? Never done it.
Also why do you orient the inner snap ring in the downward position when fitting the axle into the diff housing? Is there a groove that lines up with the snap ring groove? Again never done it, but happy to learn.
2001LC
SILVER Star
FSM states orient inner snap ring open end down. IMHO this is because it set most flush in this position. It fits kind of loose, if open end up it may protrude just a bit more on bottom side and be difficult to seat or may even catch and bind.
GAP:
Most shop don't do either, nor do they set bearing correctly either. Insures repeat expensive work, and really, most don't know or care.
Wide hub flange to snap ring gap allows axle to move in and out beyond factory limit. This pounds on axle brass bushing on back side of knuckle and front of hub flange. This pounding will not only increase gap, but creates a sawing action on teeth of axle and hub flange. This sawing action (along with chatter from loose wheel bearings) eats at teeth creating back lash (play). This is leading cause of N to D clunk, and failure of teeth allowing axle to spin freely.
Parts departments have many thickness of hub flange snap ring. If gap exceed .20 => you move up in size. The tighter the gap the better. If limit in size is reached, it becomes necessary to replace components. Number one being the axle brass bushing, assuming good hub flange and rear large bearing & race. Back side of spindle scoring can also increase gap, which combination of loose wheel bearings and wide gap damage this as well.
