Average operating temp
- Thread starter bajaphile
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the ecu needs the temp information to operate the closed loop settings. i think the sensor works off resistance, so if i just tap into the harness that might just work. i dont know if i will need diodes or other components to make it work. i have the raventai mod and i can see my gauge move up and down, in the heat with a/c and aux fan its 3/4 way on the factory gauge. i wish i knew what temp reading that was. when the engine is under load going up a hill it can go right under the red mark on the gauge.
Thanks for the insight on the ECU. I figured it required a temp reading, just wasn't sure.
For temp readings based on your dash gauge, these are the ones I have pulled from the Raventai thread, IIRC, in F degrees.
Pegged Cold 150
Cold Line 160
Centered 189
Bottom of Red 217
Top of Red 227
Pegged HOT ((((Oh
No!)))) 244
From my Autel gage I typically see temps between 82 - 88C (180 190F) year round. Last year I saw 102C (215F) stuck in Toronto traffic on a 37C (99F) day with A/C on.
alia176
SILVER Star
I hit 210° occasionally in the middle of the summer with A/C on and flogging the crap out of it. Other times of the year, mid 190°- ish. Blue fan clutch with 10k fluid. The Aux fan I have is mainly to help the condenser stay cool, doesn't do crap for the radiator I don't think.
I think installing a tranny aux cooler that is fan forced may take some of the heat away from the radiator - not sure.
Oh, looking at that Scanguage temp gauge constantly is not good for your heart. If you have a solid engine, and a good cooling system, that temp will go up and down as necessary so just ignore it and drive it like you stole it!!
I think installing a tranny aux cooler that is fan forced may take some of the heat away from the radiator - not sure.
Oh, looking at that Scanguage temp gauge constantly is not good for your heart. If you have a solid engine, and a good cooling system, that temp will go up and down as necessary so just ignore it and drive it like you stole it!!
My temperature has been rising and it's not even warm here yet!!
My temp is now between 90 - 95 degree celsius (194 - 203 fahrenheit) and will jump up to 97 (207 fahrenheit) if I idle after driving on the highway
I am thinking of changing out my fan clutch fluid to see if it makes a difference, I put in a new radiator last year.
My temp is now between 90 - 95 degree celsius (194 - 203 fahrenheit) and will jump up to 97 (207 fahrenheit) if I idle after driving on the highway
I am thinking of changing out my fan clutch fluid to see if it makes a difference, I put in a new radiator last year.
Thanks for the insight on the ECU. I figured it required a temp reading, just wasn't sure.
For temp readings based on your dash gauge, these are the ones I have pulled from the Raventai thread, IIRC, in F degrees.
Pegged Cold 150
Cold Line 160
Centered 189
Bottom of Red 217
Top of Red 227
Pegged HOT ((((Oh
ok now those numbers are really scarring me. i modified the fan clutch and put 10K toyota silicone, new toyota thermostat, toyota red coolant (70/30 mix more water then coolant) i rodded out the OEM radiator, it was about 35-40% blocked. my temps still rise up when im going on a steep uphill on the freeway. i should do something about reading actual temps. mine is still the original headgasket and i dont plan on changing it.
Ouch, sorry to be the bearer of bad news
If it was me, I'd go for a new radiator at this point. Rodding out helps, but I doubt you're getting factory spec flow if it was plugged that badly to start with.
If worse comes to worst and the HG goes, I'm sure there will be plenty of folks interested in a locked 80 with that few miles. But let's hope not!
If it was me, I'd go for a new radiator at this point. Rodding out helps, but I doubt you're getting factory spec flow if it was plugged that badly to start with.
If worse comes to worst and the HG goes, I'm sure there will be plenty of folks interested in a locked 80 with that few miles. But let's hope not!
Ouch, sorry to be the bearer of bad news
If it was me, I'd go for a new radiator at this point. Rodding out helps, but I doubt you're getting factory spec flow if it was plugged that badly to start with.
If worse comes to worst and the HG goes, I'm sure there will be plenty of folks interested in a locked 80 with that few miles. But let's hope not!
^^^ x2
I think you can run hotter than most think.
I run up to 220F for short periods without worry. The AC on my '94 doesn't cut out until 226F.
I measure temp at the top tube casting at the head before radiator with a type K thermocouple.
I will easily hit 210-215F fully loaded at freeway speed when pulling a grade in >100F outside temps. Just did this coming home from MOAB. Vegas was about 98F.
I'm running on the original head gasket with 215k miles and a SC. But, I never run hot when wheeling, only under heavy load, high speed, steep grade.
I won't run at 190F unless I'm coasting downhill
I run up to 220F for short periods without worry. The AC on my '94 doesn't cut out until 226F.
I measure temp at the top tube casting at the head before radiator with a type K thermocouple.
I will easily hit 210-215F fully loaded at freeway speed when pulling a grade in >100F outside temps. Just did this coming home from MOAB. Vegas was about 98F.
I'm running on the original head gasket with 215k miles and a SC. But, I never run hot when wheeling, only under heavy load, high speed, steep grade.
I won't run at 190F unless I'm coasting downhill
Mine has gotten to 218 where the AC cut off and the needle is still in the center with no movement
When my rad was 80% plugged the fan would not kick on (cool air hitting fan clutch) on the hwy it stayed cool but slow city driving it would get hot. Off road it got really hot 235f on SG. The needle started moving at 228f and at 235f the needle was almost at the red.
New OEM toyota rad fixed it never get over 193f on the larges mountain passes now A/C blasting all the time.
New OEM toyota rad fixed it never get over 193f on the larges mountain passes now A/C blasting all the time.
My 96 runs at 190-195 in normal conditions in the 60s and 70s When I am going up a descent grade it will get up to 200 in the same outdoor temp. The A/C seems to raise it about 2 degrees. Blue fan clutch. Location CT.
I haven't had the scangauge hooked up in the dead of summer. Curious to see. I really like being able to monitor the temps though.....and the MPG
I haven't had the scangauge hooked up in the dead of summer. Curious to see. I really like being able to monitor the temps though.....and the MPG
Ouch, sorry to be the bearer of bad news
If it was me, I'd go for a new radiator at this point. Rodding out helps, but I doubt you're getting factory spec flow if it was plugged that badly to start with.
If worse comes to worst and the HG goes, I'm sure there will be plenty of folks interested in a locked 80 with that few miles. But let's hope not!
noo i will never get rid of my landcruiser. rodding the radiator did help, but for the sake of keeping my headgasket from going out, i should opt for a OEM radiator or the Koyo. not sure yet. i have the modified Raventai gauge so it moves constantly. the original toyota setup will keep the needle in the middle until you are wayy past hot.
- Thread starter
- #55
Just an update... I installed my new Blue Hub fan clutch and temps have gone down consierably. I have 20k weight silicon diff oil waiting to be installed.
This weekend I sat in the border traffic for 5 hours, wiht the AC on and Ultragage read 181F the entire time.
Highest temp I saw was 191 I believe after a long hard drive into stop and go driving. Which I think is a good temp. Next up is the 20k fluid.
Another thing I've been thinking about is that I dont really want the truck to be running TOO cool either... I feel 175-195 is a good operating temp.... any lower I dont think is actually good.
This weekend I sat in the border traffic for 5 hours, wiht the AC on and Ultragage read 181F the entire time.
Highest temp I saw was 191 I believe after a long hard drive into stop and go driving. Which I think is a good temp. Next up is the 20k fluid.
Another thing I've been thinking about is that I dont really want the truck to be running TOO cool either... I feel 175-195 is a good operating temp.... any lower I dont think is actually good.
- Thread starter
- #57
Right, thats what I was sort of thinking... !!!
I also installed a 10" electric fan next to the PS cooler on the condenser, which triggers with a switch on the dash just in case...
I also installed a 10" electric fan next to the PS cooler on the condenser, which triggers with a switch on the dash just in case...
Ok. Embarrassing noob question, be kind....but why is the radiator cap so important? When people talk about the cap do they literally just mean the cap at the top of the radiator? Why does it play such a big role in the cooling process?
Thanks.
Thanks.
It has a seal and spring/venting system if you look at one, the system is sealed and pressurized. The cap is design to vent at 8 or 11 psi or something like that. When failed the system is "open"
Cool. Thanks.
