- Thread starter
- #21
Got mine in the mail, Erik did a great job putting that thing together. Now I gotta start the arduous of running all the wiring to hook everything up now
Well, with my relay panel, you should have fewer wires to run.
Auxiliary fuse/relay panel (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter slcfj62
- Start date
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Well, with my relay panel, you should have fewer wires to run.
- Thread starter
- #24
See this thread for a couple of pics of the underside as well as Kevin's comments. This if for the headlight harness, but the Aux panel is very similar. I don't have one made up right now, or I would post up a pic.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/wagongear/386707-wagongear-guild.html
Let me know if you would like any additional pics or info.
EDIT: OK, I found a pic but it is a bit dark.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/wagongear/386707-wagongear-guild.html
Let me know if you would like any additional pics or info.
EDIT: OK, I found a pic but it is a bit dark.
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Made something similar out of an old Audi fuse/relay panel once - worked great but took me about a day to cut down, fab, & wire & is ugly. Your product looks good.
I notice you have the box mounted on a "standoff" bracket - since my intended location is the left rear quarter panel of my 60, can you suggest anything so the top faces the inside of the cab and the red wires underneath are shorter (don't stick down)? Also, I'd need the relays excited by 12V, not ground (trailer light application). Also, I'd like to switch the main power to the panel so the relays don't work when turned off.
I notice you have the box mounted on a "standoff" bracket - since my intended location is the left rear quarter panel of my 60, can you suggest anything so the top faces the inside of the cab and the red wires underneath are shorter (don't stick down)? Also, I'd need the relays excited by 12V, not ground (trailer light application). Also, I'd like to switch the main power to the panel so the relays don't work when turned off.
Ever thought of doing a replacement 40/45/55 series fuse panel replacement?
- Thread starter
- #27
Depends on where you mount it in the rear quarter panel. I would suggest a piece of angle iron mounted inside one of the interior braces, and then the relay module brackets mounted to that. That wouldn't position it so the top faces inward, but it would work well. To have the module face the interior would require mounting the angle iron to a horizontal surface in the rear quarter panel.
The Bussman relay/fuse panel is designed for the wiring matrix to be on the underside. The wires can be bent over, but there is no avoiding having the jumper wires on the underside.
The Aux Relay Module can be built for relay control voltage to be either switched ground, switched 12V, or some combination of the two.
You could install a switch inline with the power lead to the relay module, but it would need to be able to switch the maximum current you intend to draw. The max simultaneous current rating for the Aux Panel is about 60 amps.
- Thread starter
- #28
Yep. I even did a poll question over on the 40s forum, and there seemed to be some interest. Right now I am staying pretty busy with Aux relay panels and with headlight harnesses for the 60 series. But if you want to be the Guinea Pig for the 40 series, drop me a PM.
Is there a smaller version avaiable?..say something for a trailer where it would nice to have 6 - 15 or 20 amp circuts. Just thinking outloud...looks like an awesome product.
- Thread starter
- #30
This is the only size available for the relays.
Hello........
1)Is this available in a larger quantity of relays? or is this the 46343?
2)What are the lengths of switch and load wires?
3)If the wires are long enough, what the lead time to fab?
4)How would you wire one relay to two aux lights, a double pole on relay??
5)Paypal?
Thanks
1)Is this available in a larger quantity of relays? or is this the 46343?
2)What are the lengths of switch and load wires?
3)If the wires are long enough, what the lead time to fab?
4)How would you wire one relay to two aux lights, a double pole on relay??
5)Paypal?
Thanks
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RufusTheDufus
SILVER Star
I'm installing an Option C at the moment and just checking in here to verify the schematic before wiring it up. I don't see any 15 amp fuses in the schematics below. Am I misunderstanding something in the statement above? I guess I don't know which wires are non-switched in Options A, B or C.
- Thread starter
- #34
See the schematics below for the update to my Aux Panel for Config B and C. The 15 amp fuse is a recent addition. It feeds the single red or orange wire. It's purpose is to provide you with a constant 12 volt source to use for your switches so you don't have to search under the dash for one. So, you would connect onto the wire and run it up under the dash with the relay control wires (the skinny ones).
The schematic shows the overall Aux Panel. Relay one shows the use of the constant 12 volt source wire. Any switch connected to this constant 12 volt source will be able to switch the corresponding relay on regardless of the position of the key. And if you don't want to use it, just leave the heatshrink on the end. I chose to use a 15 amp fuse which is overkill for the relay coils so that you could also use this as a source for anything else you wish. It will prevent something I think is a mistake--tapping into the vehicle fuse panel in the dash.
If you desire a 12 volt source that is switched on and off with the ignition key, the cigar lighter is good for that.
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NLXTACY
Wits' End
Here with DR GIL doing up all the wiring for his Aux fan and fog lights plus done future stuff. I noticed that the relay block he got has red banded wires. According to the paperwork that means this switch to power rather than switched to ground. He has an 80 series which I'm pretty sure is switched to ground.
We wired up everything according to schematic but can't get anything to turn on. Trying to figure put what we are doing wrong. Is there an easy way to switch the fusebox to switch to ground instead if switch to hot?
We wired up everything according to schematic but can't get anything to turn on. Trying to figure put what we are doing wrong. Is there an easy way to switch the fusebox to switch to ground instead if switch to hot?
- Thread starter
- #36
Unless you are using OEM switches that are already wired to switch to ground, you shouldn't have any problem switching to hot. There is also a single red wire coming out the bottom of the relay module. If you were to touch this wire to one of the skinny wires, that relay will turn on. This red wire is provided to use as a 12 volt source for the switches. So, if you run the red wire up to the switch array, and daisy chain it to the + side of the switches, and then connect the skinny wire for each relay pair to the other side of each switch, you should be golden. Obviously if one side of the switch is hardwired to ground, this won't work. Regardless of whether you are switching the relay control wire (the skinny one) to hot, or switching it to ground, the fat wire always has 12 volts on it when the relay is turned on.
If you need to have switched ground for the relay control, you will have to send it back to me. I destroyed two of these relay modules before I figured out how to get the terminals back out once they are installed.
Please bounce back with any questions.
If you need to have switched ground for the relay control, you will have to send it back to me. I destroyed two of these relay modules before I figured out how to get the terminals back out once they are installed.
Please bounce back with any questions.
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NLXTACY
Wits' End
That's the issue we are seeing. We are using diagram A.
The only way to get the entire circuit to work is to do what you are mentioning, tale the single thin red wire and jumper it to any of the small colored wires to complete the circuit. Without doing that last step nothing works. So yes, while I could make a bunch of small loops and daisy chain all the thin wires together, it seems as though there is a better way to do so.
I'm open to suggestions.
I'm on an IPhone so can't make a drawing but for example here is what we did:
Jdm fan-
Fan; negative to ground, positive to fat green wire from relay box.
Switch; negative to ground, positive to thin green wire from relay box.
Should be that simple. What am I missing?
The only way to get the entire circuit to work is to do what you are mentioning, tale the single thin red wire and jumper it to any of the small colored wires to complete the circuit. Without doing that last step nothing works. So yes, while I could make a bunch of small loops and daisy chain all the thin wires together, it seems as though there is a better way to do so.
I'm open to suggestions.
I'm on an IPhone so can't make a drawing but for example here is what we did:
Jdm fan-
Fan; negative to ground, positive to fat green wire from relay box.
Switch; negative to ground, positive to thin green wire from relay box.
Should be that simple. What am I missing?
- Thread starter
- #38
So, that is your problem. You are wiring for Config A (switched ground), but he ordered Config C (switched hot). With Config C, one side of the relay coils is already grounded. You need to provide 12 volts to the other side of the relay coils via the skinny wires. You will switch them to a 12 volt source. The advantage to Config C is you can use lighted switches, or you can also use the ignition ACC as a source for the 12 volts which will ensure the devices are switched off when you turn the key off. You can't do either of those with switched ground. You must have daisy chained the ground wire to the switches already. Just disconnect from ground and connect the red wire up to the daisy chain instead.
And you have the fan wired in correctly to the fat wire.
And you have the fan wired in correctly to the fat wire.
Got a relay box for my FJ60 several weeks ago. Awesome product. Very pleased.
A few pics of a custom bracket I made for it.
A few pics of a custom bracket I made for it.
hm
Can one of these be made to power aux lighting for a 2011 JK. Been searching for a while for something like this at a reasonable price and i think i found what i need in this aux panel..I am going to power two pairs of off road lights, 2 sets of emergancy strobes, and maybe rock lighting..
Can one of these be made to power aux lighting for a 2011 JK. Been searching for a while for something like this at a reasonable price and i think i found what i need in this aux panel..I am going to power two pairs of off road lights, 2 sets of emergancy strobes, and maybe rock lighting..
