Aux Light Instl/Slee Harness

[PACNW96]

I want to install some basic fog lights on my cruiser like hella 500's/Piaa's or similar. It seems as if a lot of people go with Slee's auxilary wire harness and I was wondering why? Can the stock electrical system not handle the additional load due to the lights? Any advice would be appreicated.

Russell

 

[NorCalDoug]

I don't know if it was ever determined if the stock system could or couldn't handle the additional load from aux lights. I recall a debate a while back on the subject, but don't think there was a clear outcome.

I personally like the idea of using the slee harness so as to not possibly stress the OEM electrical system. The price is reasonable and it's nice to be able to plug-n-play sometimes.

 

[dclee]

You can have my Slee harness for cheap, if you want. It's coming off and I'm going to run dedicated 10 AWG direct from the battery switched with Bosch relays. So there will be no power flowing through the dash switches, they will only be used for tripping the relays. Did this on our SL when I put the European E-code headlamps in and it is a nice setup. Lets lots of juice get to the bulbs! But it is much more trouble than the Slee harness, which is, like Doug said, plug and play.

 

[CharlieS]

dclee,

If PACNW96 isn't interested, I am. Please shoot me a PM if he doesn't want it.

Thanks,
Charlie

 

[sleeoffroad]

2 issues. If you use higher wattage bulbs, then you can burn the connectors on the oem harness. That is where the upgrade harness comes in . The Aux install harness is a just a easy way for most people to add auxiliary lights to the truck if they want to retain the auto off feature of the stock headlights, or want lights to come on when on hi beam. Also allows for running factory toyota light switches.

Anynone that knoww wiring can do the same with custom wiring, however for a lot of people 12v DC is black magic and they want a easy solution. Most decent lights also come with their own harness that you can install pretty easy, however you don't have auto off and you have to stick those ugly switches everywhere. For a lot of people that is fine to.

 

[PACNW96]

Thanks for the feedback everyone...I understand now...
Russell

 

[EDPA]

PACNW96, I just did this mod. I used hella 500's. I removed the existing harness it came with and swapped it out with a Slee Aux. light harness. I was able to use the factory switch as well which gives a nice OEM appearence.

 

[Beowulf]

You can have my Slee harness for cheap, if you want. It's coming off and I'm going to run dedicated 10 AWG direct from the battery switched with Bosch relays. So there will be no power flowing through the dash switches, they will only be used for tripping the relays.

Derek,

Please correct me if I am wrong but I believe the Slee harness only uses voltage for tripping relays. There is no power flowing through the dash switches if you wire it correctly.

-B-

 

[CharlieS]

I'm probably showing my ignorance here, but I believe you still have full voltage going through the switch, it is just a less draw (amperage?).

The 12V (well, maybe as much as 14v+) through the switch is used to trigger the relay, which in turn energizes the lights with a bigger guage wire that comes more from the battery through the relay (the relay is essentially treated as a remote switch activated by the stock switch). The power to the lights doesn't have to make the long trip to the dash switch through that small wire.

This eliminates some voltage drop to the lights, but also prevents the major juice from going through the switch. Reduces it to something like .10 amps vs 12-14 amps.

At least that is how I understand it. But I am a shadetree mechanic not a real one.

Looking forward to being educated...

Charlie

 

[Lockd97]

I'm probably showing my ignorance here, but I believe you still have full voltage going through the switch, it is just a less draw (amperage?).

The 12V (well, maybe as much as 14v+) through the switch is used to trigger the relay, which in turn energizes the lights with a bigger guage wire that comes more from the battery through the relay (the relay is essentially treated as a remote switch activated by the stock switch). The power to the lights doesn't have to make the long trip to the dash switch through that small wire.

This eliminates some voltage drop to the lights, but also prevents the major juice from going through the switch. Reduces it to something like .10 amps vs 12-14 amps.

At least that is how I understand it. But I am a shadetree mechanic not a real one.

Looking forward to being educated...

Charlie

You are correct sir with the following addition, a small amount of current (not voltage) energizes the coil to pull down the bar and complete the circuit.
The ~12 volts is not the issue here because it is constant but the amount of current is. P=VI

 

[dclee]

Derek,

Please correct me if I am wrong but I believe the Slee harness only uses voltage for tripping relays. There is no power flowing through the dash switches if you wire it correctly.

-B-

Correct. Christo's setup is similar to what I'll be doing. But I want thicker wire and Bosch relays. Just compensating, I guess...

 

[dclee]

I'm probably showing my ignorance here, but I believe you still have full voltage going through the switch, it is just a less draw (amperage?).

Yes, I was short-handing it. What I meant was, no power (actually current) intended for the bulbs themselves flows through the dash. Otherwise you're talking major resistance by trying to squeeze it all through there. It all comes directly off the battery via the relays. All the switch does is supply power to trip the relay, thus completing the circuit from the battery to the bulbs.