Aussie '75 Ground-up rebuild

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Joined
Aug 19, 2010
Threads
6
Messages
42
Location
Whyalla, South Australia
I first bought this '75 FJ40 when I was still a poor university student about 10 years ago. The guy who had it before me was driving it one day and it just stopped. He could never get it started again so he just wheeled it into a paddock and left it there. I offered him some folding for it and towed it home. Back in my old man's workshop, we started going over it and found it wasn't getting any power to the coil. We managed to trace this back to a hidden kill switch under the dash. I flicked it on, and it started first pop. It had a rebuilt 2F on LPG, air con and what sounded like a bit of a mild cam.

It had some rust, just the usual spots so I started stripping it down but I quickly realised I didn't have enough cash to do it properly so it sat, neglected in my Sister's hayshed until last year.

I am getting married in October 2012 and I have permission from the good woman to finish it and use it as one of our wedding cars. Initial plans are:

- ground up rebuild
- New suspension (nothing crazy, just EFS 2" and some longer shackles)
- V8 & Auto conversion. (thinking LS1 or 350 SBC but not sure yet)

So first some pics. This is what it looked like for the last 10 years.
before_chassis_on.jpg
 
Body rust isn't too bad, mainly just the rear sill and quarters need attention and a few patches in the floor, rockers and door pillars. I had a crack at it all those years ago but I reckon I can do a lot better now. (and with less filler).

Before_Tub_rear.jpg


body_rust.jpg



So, this is where it got interesting. Being a 75, I didn't think mine should have had the disk brake front end. Obviously it has had a conversion at some stage as from what I can work out, mine is from a late model one (1980+). Score, one less job for me to do.

front_axle.jpg
 
There were lots (and I mean lots) of holes drilled in the body tub of this thing presumably to mount all sorts of crap over the years so I started welding these up. No doubt, some of them are factory and I'll end up drilling them out again...:D

holes.jpg


The next surprise came when was researching about engine conversions. I wanted to go V8/Auto so I bought a second TH400 that came with an adapter and transfer case. I didn't even bother to check but at some stage, the gearbox and transfer in my truck had been replaced with later model box and split case transfer. Still haven't made up my mind what to do here....

gear_box.jpg


Oh well, plenty of time to think about that later. I got the frame blasted. The local bloke here blasted and primed the frame, blasted both axle housings and painted them in epoxy for $500. Money well spent and he did a great job. I drilled out the rivets holding in the rear diagonals and popped them out before blasting so that all the rust could be removed. I have some M12 mushroom head HT bolts to go back in place of the rivets.

before:

stripped_chassis.jpg


After:

P7241875.jpg


P7251883.JPG
 
I have done a few other bits and pieces while waiting for parts to arrive. I rebuilt the front brake calipers (will grab pics when the paint is dry) and spent last night rebuilding the knuckles.

My new genuine knuckle studs and nuts arrived and I grabbed a bunch of stainless washers and set to work:

P7261884.JPG



All the arms and bits and pieces I blasted and painted:

P7251882.JPG



It was absolutely freezing in the shed last night but I managed to get both knuckles back on before retreating back into the house.

knuckles_on.jpg


And that pretty much brings me up to date. Suspension should be arriving this week so that will be next. Also, my brother is heading to the damaged vehicle auctions this week to look at a couple of donor cars for the V8 swap.
 
Hi All:

Wow mate! You have really dived into this project! :eek: :cheers:

Frankly, I'd stick with the existing engine/drive train you currently have. Focus on the body tub re-build, etc. and get the rig back on the road in time for your wedding (BTW - congrats! :beer: )

Good luck!

Alan
 
Thanks Alan.

Appreciate your thoughts and I would have stuck with the original driveline had it not been for some pesky swallows who decided to make the exhaust ports on my 2F their new home at some stage over the last 10 years. the cylinder head is full up with mud and bird feathers and the motor is siezed. The 2F will need a minor rebuild at least and I just couldn't warrant spending money on an engine I dont really want.

I figured I have just over 12 months, that should be enought time, even for me!
 
Nice build mate. Whats the third shifter towards the back of the gearbox for?
Keen eyes you have there! It's a Fairey overdrive. From what I understand, these are a complete replacement rear housing for the transfer case with an extra cog in it. I can't find any info on it anywhere. If it breaks it could be fun to repair...
 
Feels like Christmas...

Just a quick update. All my new suspension finally arrived. I don't think much of the finish on the spring packs, they are going to need a bit more paint on them I think. The shackles aren't all that pretty either but they will have to do at least until after the roadworthy inspection is complete and I'll whack some longer ones on. New wheel studs turned up too so I can slot these in and put the front axle back together.

new_susp.jpg
 
these two circled holes are used to mount the body to the frame... thought i'd save you some time figuring that one out... thats a superb looking body btw ;)
holes.webp
 
Hey Mate,

Looking good!! Good on ya starting the build thread! Ill take that fairy overdrive off ya if you decide to go auto!

Cheers Luke
 
Holy crap-tastic springs Batman!

I am in a really bad mood this morning. I'm not sure about the E, but I reckon I know what the FS in EFS stands for - F#cking SH1TE!

craptastic_spring.jpg


This is the shackle angle on the rear after fitting the new EFS springs. It would appear they are WAY too short. I fit the spring (haven't bolted the axle to it yet) and just sat it on the ground and whammo, instant inversion. I'm guessing this is a standard length spring and all they have done is put some exta bend in it to give me the claimed 50mm lift but in turn makes sping shorter. Not really very happy. Took me nearly a month and heaps of dicking around to get these things here and now I'm going to have to send 'em straight back.

I just did a bit of a search and found an old post with a user with exactly the same springs, and had exactly the same problem. Poor R&D and quality control obviously. Oh well, better get on the phone with the supplier and get the ball rolling.... GRRRR :mad::mad::mad:
 
Suspended

Well, I rang EFS and their response on the springs was that it would be ok once it is loaded up with some more weight and the springs flatten out. I can't see my truck ever having enough weight in it for that to work but for now I'll leave them in and see what happens.

The fronts are in too and the shackle angles were a lot better:

suspended.jpg



I got the front end all back together and whacked the steering arm in loosely just to keep the wheels pointing in the same direction so I can wheel it around.
 
I also noticed that when I put the front end back together, my spindles appear to be very short, The second hub nut only just has enough thread available to actually screw on.

When I did the rebuild I replaced both spindles, put in a backing plate eliminator (mine were rusted to pieces) and replaced the disks with aftermarket items. I am assuming that either the spindles were a bit shorter or the new disks and backing plate spacer were not quite machined to the correct tolerances. What this means is that my axle shafts are perhaps a bit too short. See below:

hub.jpg


My freewheeling hubs are the type that have a stepped washer and a bolt in the end of the axle shaft that holds the clutch assembly onto the hub. (I have no idea what they are from, they look nothing like any others I've seen on Mud) The problem I have is that when I tighten up the bolt, the step washer doesn't bottom out on the end of the shaft anymore and it squashes the plastic skirt of the free wheeling hub up against the hub itself. I've got around this by packing it out with a couple of washers. Has anyone else ever had to do this?
 
More suspension woes...

Well, I bolted in the rear shocks only to find that they are the wrong ones. Looks like they sent me the correct length, but the large eye type from a later model.

I went back and looked at the sales invoice and the correct part number is on the invoice and also stamped on the box they came in but the part number stamped on the shock is different. Looks like someone put the wrong shocks in the wrong box at the warehouse. you can see from the pics that they do go on, but in order for me to tighten the nuts up enough to get the cotter pins in, it almost pushes the bush through the eye. Wouldn't take much for them to pop right off as the washer isn't big enough to retain them.

rear_shock.jpg


On the bright side, I did work out why my axle shafts seemed too short. Turns out I had the wrong oil seal in the back of the hub. Schoolboy error.... :whoops:
 
Been a while since I posted, have been in Malaysia on holidays. I checked the spring orientation, they are definetly round the right way, just a poorly designed lift spring I think.

I am still trying to work out what is going on with these shocks. The eye's are too big. I have been going back and forwards with the supplier who is really at the mercy of EFS. EFS are trying to tell me that my shock mounts have been modified, thats why the shocks don't fit. I honestly think they are just the wrong part. If anyone has EFS shocks on the rear of their pre 80's 40, can they tell me what the part number is???
 
Mate, that washer looks like it is the wrong way around, turn it round so that the nut is siting in the dish, same with the other site, that might be the problem!
 
Mate, that washer looks like it is the wrong way around, turn it round so that the nut is siting in the dish, same with the other side, that might be the problem!
 

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