Atlas T-case in a 60 series (1 Viewer)

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wngrog

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calfj60 said:
Ok I got to thinking today. Would it be possible to run an atlas in a 60 with a stock rear axle?? I know th atlas is set up for a centered diff but is there enough distance to make up for it?? It would be attached to a 700r4 tranny in a spring over truck??? Thanks Tim

As long as the compound angle does not exceed the max for the ujoint at the case, then you will be fine.

If the angle is 7*down and 6* right then total is 13*......check your down angle now and then rough in the left right and then call Jesse at High Angle.
 
WTF would you spend the money an Atlas costs and leave a marginal C Clip axle axle in?
We have seen our share of rear axle breaks since the Longs came out.....and if you aren't thinking you are gonna wheel it that hard, why an Atlas?
 
I am looking at running an atlas beacuse I am sick to death of the 203 to split case issues. I have never really had the 203 work right and the split case is in need of a good rebuild...I gave it a shot and failed so rather than pay another 600 to get it rebuilt, then figure out shifter linkage and redesign teh cross member I was throwin around the idea of an atlas. I don't really wanna replace the rear axle since it is now locked via ARB and has disk brakes all figured out. But I am open to suggestions, just trying to figure out what options I have, keep the opinions comming....I am learning from each one...

Tim
 
See that is the kind of advice I am looking for....What would I need to adapt that to my 700r4??? Or would I want to keep the 203....

Tim
 
got your pm tim.

i would make the setup in the truck work, for multiple reasons.

1) its already in there and paid for
2) choice of different low range ratio
3) possible drive shaft issues
4) it'll cost you a lot less to go thru the split case than to adapt and atlas in there.


have you talked to AA about your adapte/203 issues? how about the company that actually markets the adapter? i know AA is making them for him and then they're sold thru 4 vendors only, one of them being gary aka mudrak.

and to reply to your other question:
the atlas will mate to the th700 with an AA adapter. if your th700 is a 4wd model, then all you have to do is trim the output shaft some and you're in business. since you have the 203 range box behind it, i would assume that you have an AA output shaft in the trans. not sure if that would work in conjunction with the atlas or not, but it should cause the spline count is the same. length is the only variable.
the other possible option to adapt the atlas to the th700 would be to use the stock gm cast irnon th700-np241c adapter. i'm exploring that possibility for "project isabel" right now cause i do not like the fact that people are breaking the AA adapter and that the AA adapter is 2" taller than the gm unit and it uses a crappy mounting bolt patter for a 2wd style trans mount. the gm adapter uses the wider truck style mount which is a much better design in my opinion. i will get into this more on the build up thread when i have gathered all the info i need.
but here's a teaser pic:
MVC-005S.JPG
 
just went out in the garage and popped on the stock AA adapter and mount to help you guys visualize the differences. check out the difference in heigth and mount "beef" on the gm version as well as wider mounting bolt pattern (way stronger).
MVC-007S.JPG
 
Waggoner5 said:
I have tried the oposite with a centered diff and Toyota t-case and at road speeds, the d-shaft was not happy. I had the CV shaft already in the rear also.


IMO, the CV shaft was probably the problem.....CV is best when the pinion points straight at the t-case output, and that's impossible with the centered out/offset pinion.

There are a handful of options for going from the 700R to the Atlas/D300...Sunray is the one I used. Replaced the tranny output, which I felt was good, versus a spud shaft off the tranny and a longer adapter.
 
I"d rebuild what ya got and call it good.. Helped put 2 of those setups together. Your 203 probably has too much slop. I've seen a few that way. The splitcase is a simple rebuild, 4 hours in and out under the truck if you know what your doing. Only 2 bearings that even need a press if I recall correctly.
I can't imagine there are that many bearings inside the 203 and it can't be that hard to find one with less slop in it. The Split case rebuild kit is cheap. somewhere around $150-180 normally and your done.. And even if you don't like it at that point.. Then sell it to fund your new drivetrain..
Just my opinion.
So what exactly is the issue with your 203 adapter? SLop, popping out? Leaking? Making noise? What?
 
The 203's issue is that when I put the truck in gear the 203 only turns the out put shaft in one position. The 203 has three positions, hi - low- neutral. But I only get out put in one position :mad: So iguess I need to tear that down also. The more I ponder it the more I am looking to just rebuild all of this and try it again. The problem is I have alsorts of time but can't do anything because my right is knee is screwed up and will probably need surgery...so I spend way to much time pondering options...Thanks for the opinions..

Tim
 
AHHHH.. The got internet but no ability to work on my junk syndrome! Got bunch of friends like that.. Sounds like you got the collar off from the selector. I've got a 203 apart in the garage if that would help. There are 2 levers on the side and I'm pretty sure the inner one is the only one that works on the doubler part. The other outter one was connected to the shaft that ran inside the 203 to the rear half which was removed. It'd be a bit before I can take pics but that might help ya out.
I"m guessing georg would know off the top of his head tho. he's smert like dat.. I gotta go look at stuff cause if I put any more info in this head I gotta push out something I wanna keep!
 
sounds like you might have a linkage/fork problem in the 203 range box. should not be a tough repair.


back to the atlas idea. i'd say it's gonna cost you a minimum of $4k to get the parts and make it work. so the split case sounds really like the way to go.
 
fwiw, the stock cast iron gm th700-np241c adapter works just fine on the th700-atlas setup, but might have to be modified depending on your clocking needs. ;)

ps: for more deatils on that, check out my "project isabel" thread.
 
Georg, I have been following your thread and will continue to do so since I can't build anything myself :mad:

Erik, If you could take a couple of pics when you get a chance that would be great....Guess I will contginue searching the net for other off the wall questions for you guys to answer....Thanks
 
Texican said:
WTF would you spend the money an Atlas costs and leave a marginal C Clip axle axle in?
We have seen our share of rear axle breaks since the Longs came out.....and if you aren't thinking you are gonna wheel it that hard, why an Atlas?

Hijack...

What axle should a guy swap in the rear of a 60 series? I'm considering swapping in a full float 80 series, which would cost me around $400 (b/c I already have a 4.88 ARB 3rd member to drop in).

And i'm not planning on swapping out t-cases any time soon.
 
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Ya broke an inner yet? If not then why change? How low of gearing ya got? Cyro your inners, especially the long and wheel it till it breaks.. Then get your 80 series axle ready in the meantime.
 
wngrog said:
As long as the compound angle does not exceed the max for the ujoint at the case, then you will be fine.

If the angle is 7*down and 6* right then total is 13*......check your down angle now and then rough in the left right and then call Jesse at High Angle.



It would actually be the hypotenuse

so

(7^2 + 6^2)^(1/2) = 9.2
 

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