ATF plug!!

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Joined
Aug 18, 2005
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ATF plug and transmission pan!!

Like a dumb*#$ I over tightened the plug. When I changed the ATF yesterday I soon noticed a leak from the plug. So of course, I tightened it a little more. This is not uncommon for me because I usually tend to not tighten enough because I am so paranoid of stripping a bolt. But I guess I should of stopped on the third try! :o

Now I can't even get it out...it just spins and spins.

Anyone seen Cdan around lately? Is it even possible to buy a new pan and which appendage should I sell? Do I even have any other options?
 
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Yer prolly going to need the new pan to fix that. Sure there are all sorts of tricks to making it last a little longer (drill and tap to the next size up, remove the pan and reweld the captive nut/captive washer inside, etc.) but in the end I think you should simply give Dan the man a call and order another pan. There were threads in the past suggesting that certain pans had problems with that nut/washer coming loose. Still, for the future, try to torque the thing with a torque wrench then you wont go wrong. If for no other reason using torque wrenches on almost all available fasteners seems to pacify Dan's voodoo so do yer part for the masses here will ya??? :D :flipoff2: :D


https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=94885&highlight=torque
 
I have never used a torque wrench for an oil plug... but I may now.

In my behalf though, when I removed the plug the first time I felt like it came out funny. It had more resistance than I thought it should have.

Also, do you replace the gasket everytime you change any plug or do you reuse sometimes?
 
So for those of us who need to put the $$ into parts upgrades brfore a FSM - anyplace on the site where common service item torques are listed? Have access to Snap On torque wrenches, just lack the data to go w/ them...
 
TroutBear said:
So for those of us who need to put the $$ into parts upgrades brfore a FSM -

If you can afford $10, you can DL all manuals for your 80 from Toyota's techinfo web site. See computerbookstore's write up on how to automate the DL. His procedure takes a little thinking and prep time but once you get it going you can pull every possible manual in an hour or two with broadband.

Available manuals specific to your year model LC or LX include:
OM = Owner's Manual
FSM = Factory Service Manual.
EWD = Electronic Wiring Diagram in 256k vivid colors.
NCF = New Car Features. Lotsa good engineering design.
Transmission repair manual.
Body repair manual.
TSB's = Tech Service Bulletins
Various training manuals and other related materials. Not specific to Land Cruiser though.
Wiring Harness Repair Manual (great info on doing wiring jobs)

-B-
 
Can anyone give me an idea of what the cost of a pan might be? The suspense is killing me and no one is open today!
 
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Same thing happened to me. Your options are as previously listed.

1. New Pan about $80-90 if I remember
2. Drill the hole, tap it and put in larger plug.
3. Use one of the rubber expanding plugs.

I started with number 2 to save money. I figured if I screwed it up then I could go with number 1.

Mine worked out fine. Local Napa, Autozone or ACE hardware will have a fitting plug. I found one with a common to the 80 metric size head so I won't need to carry another socket. Pretty easy to do. My first drill and tap and it turned out perfect. Go for it. If its no good you were going to throw out the pan anyway.

Almost forgot. To get the old plug out I smacked the inside of the plug a few times with a hammer and punch until it got a bite, then backed the sucker out while pulling with vise-grips. Some may recommend heat but that will depend on how clean your pan is. I sense a major flare up that could ensue.

TR
 
sleeoffroad said:
What's a Google ?

Damn!!

I looked and saw Slee came aboard and I was hoping for "Yeah..TR is dead on. That guy should be working for us."

I guess I will keep dreaming.

TR
 
Well I just put my pan back on if it's built similar to the 442 then I wouldn't tap to an oversize plug as there isn't much room for that. But the helicoil should work just fine.

FYI, heli-coils require you to drill out the hole and then tap that hole so a spiral piece of thread can be threaded into the hole. While the outside of the spiral is larger than your bolt the Inside is the same. I always put a little red locktite on the threads before inserting them. I think this was how it used to be done but the direction don't mention that anymore.
 
TroutRunner said:
Damn!!

I looked and saw Slee came aboard and I was hoping for "Yeah..TR is dead on. That guy should be working for us."

I guess I will keep dreaming.

TR



I think that Christo would be delighted to have you work for him if a vehicle falls off the hoist and pins somebody......

Your talents would come in quite handy at that point......;) I find it very comforting to wheel with someone who has your job....:grinpimp:


I can fix a broken axle but smashed "body parts" are well out of my league.



D.
 

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