Dissent
Questioning my life choices...
I need some assistance/clarification/comparison to dtermine if I need to improve my OEM 80A alternator to a 150A Sequoia alternator. I'm 1/2 way to the Sequoia, I have all the parts from Photoman, just need the actual alternator. Before I buy it, however, I need to validate the alternator is the issue.
I seem to be draining the battery faster than it can fill based on my assessment this afternoon. Wheeling trips at idle/low speed RPMs with the A/C running result in a resting battery of about 12.7v at the end of the day with the solar panel pumping in 4.4A all day. Late night with minimal LED light usage I see 12.6-12.5v. Starting isn't an issue the next day.
Daily driving is 32 miles each way, the truck sits in the sun all day charging.
I never see 14.4v anywhere. The best is 13.8 and the average is 13.8 on the freeway. Sitting in traffic idling is 12.3v typically running the LCP fan, Alpine amp and A/C on high, sometimes the headlights are on too.
I know modern vehicles read about 13.7-13.8v at idle and 14.4v on the freeway. I've never seen that with a new alternator AND battery.
I had a series 31M Diehard Platinum (AGM) 4 years ago which died shortly after my original alternator died. I replaced the battery with a Diehard Gold (standard wet) with the 6 month old alternator and have seen the same results for the past 3 years.
Below is my list of improvements and test conditions. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Improvements:
Battery Cable Ohm Readings:
Test Results:
I seem to be draining the battery faster than it can fill based on my assessment this afternoon. Wheeling trips at idle/low speed RPMs with the A/C running result in a resting battery of about 12.7v at the end of the day with the solar panel pumping in 4.4A all day. Late night with minimal LED light usage I see 12.6-12.5v. Starting isn't an issue the next day.
Daily driving is 32 miles each way, the truck sits in the sun all day charging.
I never see 14.4v anywhere. The best is 13.8 and the average is 13.8 on the freeway. Sitting in traffic idling is 12.3v typically running the LCP fan, Alpine amp and A/C on high, sometimes the headlights are on too.
I know modern vehicles read about 13.7-13.8v at idle and 14.4v on the freeway. I've never seen that with a new alternator AND battery.
I had a series 31M Diehard Platinum (AGM) 4 years ago which died shortly after my original alternator died. I replaced the battery with a Diehard Gold (standard wet) with the 6 month old alternator and have seen the same results for the past 3 years.
Below is my list of improvements and test conditions. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Improvements:
- Big 3 2AWG Cabling (225A rated) - Battery Ground to Frame, Battery Positive to Alternator, Alternator Ground to Battery
- 500W Alpine amplifier
- LCP Radiator Fan (LX470 fan)
- Toyota OEM re-manufactured alternator 3 years ago
- Sears Diehard Gold OEM size battery 3 years ago
- 100W Renogy Panel and MorningStar PWM 30A Solar Charger
Battery Cable Ohm Readings:
- Battery to Alternator - 0 ohms
- Battery to Frame - 0 ohms
- Frame to Body - 0 ohms
- Idle (670 RPM)
- Freeway Speed (2000 RPM)
- Headlights
- LCP Radiator Fan
- Alpine Amp (normal listening and music choice)
- Air Conditioner on High
- Readings on Positive Battery post in sun with Solar feeding 4.4A (by accident)
- Alternator is within .10v of all Positive post readings
- Battery specific gravity is above 1.3v per cell
- 100 degrees ambient, removed from 85 degree garage
Test Results:
- 14.10v - Idle with no accessories at all
- 13.5v - Freeway Speed with all accessories
- 12.75v - Idle with all accessories
- 13.35v - Idle only A/C and LCP Fan
- 13.23v - Idle only A/C, LCP Fan, Alpine amp
- 13.10v - Idle only A/C, LCP Fan, Alpine amp (heavy bass)
- 12.85v - Idle only A/C, LCP Fan, Alpine amp (heavy bass) & Solar covered
- 13.75v - Freeway Speed only A/C, LCP Fan, Alpine amp (heavy bass) & Solar covered
- 13.0v - Sitting for 30 seconds after turning off key
- 12.2-12.8v is what I typically see driving around town.