Are the front and rear prop shafts identical? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Island Moose
- Start date
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if it's that bad you should be able to check the play in the u joints by grabbing them and wiggle back and forth. Or put it in 2wd drive,vibration then rear. then put it in 4wd, vibration then front. also check the pinion bearing play. swapping DS to figure out which u joint is bad would be a real PITA.
Sometime you have to take off the driveshaft to feel for the play in the U-Joint.
My 2 cents.
Craig.
My 2 cents.
Craig.
- Thread starter
- #4
lumpy70 said:
Lumpy, I think that's the key, no movement when I'm under there wiggling it around, but the shaft must be worn out, the noise and vibration are unmistakeable. In any case, I'll pull it tommorrow...now to find a replacement.
lowenbrau
SILVER Star
A long long time ago on the ORC list. John Barron posted his experience with high mile factory joints. He took them apart and measured the races and crosses and found huge wear in a joint that seemed tight. They'd be within spec in one direction and way out the other.
Moose, just get two new joints for the rear shaft and stop guessing. It'll be worth it in the end. Keep the old ones for trail spares if they're ok. I find the dealer to have the best joints for the money. Spicer is ok too but more $. NAPA ones puke out in less than a year.
Lumpy Bastard has a new source that I can't remember but seems to be good.
Oh, did anyone ask if your shaft is assembled in phase or not? The yokes should be lined up.
Good Luck
Moose, just get two new joints for the rear shaft and stop guessing. It'll be worth it in the end. Keep the old ones for trail spares if they're ok. I find the dealer to have the best joints for the money. Spicer is ok too but more $. NAPA ones puke out in less than a year.
Lumpy Bastard has a new source that I can't remember but seems to be good.
Oh, did anyone ask if your shaft is assembled in phase or not? The yokes should be lined up.
Good Luck
crushers
post ho
that is really weird, the high end ujoint that Napa sells has done me very well...wonder why everyone else is having problems...
- Thread starter
- #7
Oh, did anyone ask if your shaft is assembled in phase or not? The yokes should be lined up.
Good Luck[/QUOTE]
I'm not sure, but I will ensure that they are when I reassmble. Hope to get the two new joints ASAP. Thanks all for the advice, and I'll keep you posted.
Good Luck[/QUOTE]
I'm not sure, but I will ensure that they are when I reassmble. Hope to get the two new joints ASAP. Thanks all for the advice, and I'll keep you posted.
lowenbrau
SILVER Star
When I say they puke in less than a year that means 20,000- 50,000km. Up untill reacently I used to put quite a few miles on my Cruisers.crushers said:
How many years does it take you to put 20,000 on a Cruiser, Wayne?
You're gonna wear that Mitsubishi out.
- Thread starter
- #9
The manual says to use the "SST" to remove the u-joint...what's the "IAHIST" (I already have it somewhere tool)?
Give me a play by play once the shaft is on the bench?
Thanks in advance.
Give me a play by play once the shaft is on the bench?
Thanks in advance.
B
burger
Guest
Birfield.com will have all the manuals you need to find all the info you want.
- Thread starter
- #11
burger said:
I've got the manual...as I say it calls for the uase of a Toyota Special Service Tool to press out the spider bearings...and this job gets really pricey if I start buying factory tools. Figured someone out there does without.
lowenbrau
SILVER Star
You need a BFH and some appropriately sized sockets to beat on. A vice helps too but isn't required.
crushers
post ho
like Bruce said, a vice is nice, the bigger the better and bolted down solid makes for an easy extraction and a controlled insertion...
less chance of damage to the tiny rollers as well as the ujoint goes in straight and doesn't damage the housing...
less chance of damage to the tiny rollers as well as the ujoint goes in straight and doesn't damage the housing...
- Thread starter
- #14
no kids...
Christmas eve doesn't seem like the ideal time to change u-joints...but here I am. I have removed the rear shaft, and I've separated the shaft into it's two components. I have removed the retaining clips from all four bearings, and now I'm using a socket and a sledge to bash out the u-joint. I'm driving it down presumably to remove the outer races one at a time? It doesn't seem to want to move, and I'm afraid to really smoke it...can anyone describe the exact procedure?
Christmas eve doesn't seem like the ideal time to change u-joints...but here I am. I have removed the rear shaft, and I've separated the shaft into it's two components. I have removed the retaining clips from all four bearings, and now I'm using a socket and a sledge to bash out the u-joint. I'm driving it down presumably to remove the outer races one at a time? It doesn't seem to want to move, and I'm afraid to really smoke it...can anyone describe the exact procedure?
Driveshafts are not the sameon 79series
The front and the rear drivshafts are not the same length on a 70 series.
Michael
The front and the rear drivshafts are not the same length on a 70 series.
Michael
- Thread starter
- #16
Swapped front and rear u-joints on the rear shaft, the vibration is gone...perhaps a fix? We'll see, it might just be the addition of grease to a loose spline? In any case, I'm sure it won't hurt to have new joints in place.
