April 2022 rolling out now: check 1st post. 3 Models 25% so far. (4 Viewers)

[dittothat]

It’s your Bluetti. A lot of these solar generators do that if you do not pull enough current. They shut off. My golabs did not do that which is awesome, unfortunately it would only charge at 60w so I didn’t think it was really feasible to run the fridge 24/7/365 off that alone. A couple cloudy days in a row and it’d be a no-go for the iceco.

 

[fastrails]

You both are probably correct! Like I said working with Lu on this, he's keen on resolving this. Also he's sending me this cable to test.

DC/DC 12V Step up to 13.8V Converter Boost Stabilizer | ICECO

Effectively reduces the E1 error code caused by insufficient voltage. (Notice: The battery protection function of the refrigerator will no longer be effective after using this booster) High efficiency--Power input 9-13.5V DC boost voltage converter, boost power module output DC 13.7-14V, maximum...

icecofreezer.com

 

[Lalalx470]

You both are probably correct! Like I said working with Lu on this, he's keen on resolving this. Also he's sending me this cable to test.

DC/DC 12V Step up to 13.8V Converter Boost Stabilizer | ICECO

Effectively reduces the E1 error code caused by insufficient voltage. (Notice: The battery protection function of the refrigerator will no longer be effective after using this booster) High efficiency--Power input 9-13.5V DC boost voltage converter, boost power module output DC 13.7-14V, maximum...

icecofreezer.com

I built one of those cables before they offered them for sale, works great and have never had my fridge shut off

 

[harpo1]

You both are probably correct! Like I said working with Lu on this, he's keen on resolving this. Also he's sending me this cable to test.

DC/DC 12V Step up to 13.8V Converter Boost Stabilizer | ICECO

Effectively reduces the E1 error code caused by insufficient voltage. (Notice: The battery protection function of the refrigerator will no longer be effective after using this booster) High efficiency--Power input 9-13.5V DC boost voltage converter, boost power module output DC 13.7-14V, maximum...

icecofreezer.com

Just turn off Eco mode on your bluetti.

 

[fastrails]

Tried that, no go.

 

[MiamiC70]

Finally, stopped raining long enough for me to get fridge installed in cargo area and snap few pictures. Well, stopped at least long enough for hurricane to hit us in few days

Anyway, ICECO VL45Pro S fridge fits great and with it strapped in you can open door about 45% of way without removing it completely. If fridge wasn’t strapped in you could probably open it further as it makes contact at top left corner where the Outback’s roofline tapers and ceiling height drops. Other than that, it fits great and looks like was made for a Subaru Outback. Also, I’ve got the cargo protector still installed so might be able get a little more room if I take that out. But, for now it’s fine and ultimately I want to get a slider or a drawer kit back there.

Officer: Sir, have you been drinking?
Me: Not, yet. However, can I get you a cold one out of the fridge? It’s a scorcher out today.
Officer: Proceeds to taser me because, ’Merica


Thank you again @SharpeCat for making it possible.

 

[SION1771]

One issue is that it didn't include the cover, but I've seen lots of people say they had that problem too, and they had to contact Iceco. I might not even want the cover - we'll see after a few weeks of using it bareback.

Thanks again, @SharpeCat for arranging all this and getting all the people connected!!!

Contacted Iceco a week ago and they were quick to apologize and say they'd send the cover out ASAP. It just arrived, fits great, looks good, and looks like it's insulated enough to help.

So far only used the fridge one weekend but it cools down really quick. When unplugged, it seems to warm up faster than I'd expect, so insulation isn't amazing but the cover will help with that. No good scientific tests though.

I did repurpose our fridge thermometers to the Iceco - seems like a lot more important information to have on a portable vs. a home one. I'll probably buy another set but I wonder if they'll interfere with each other. Hopefully all the metal the transmitters are in reduces their range just enough.
smile.amazon.com/dp/B004QJVU78

 

[MiamiC70]

Contacted Iceco a week ago and they were quick to apologize and say they'd send the cover out ASAP. It just arrived, fits great, looks good, and looks like it's insulated enough to help.

So far only used the fridge one weekend but it cools down really quick. When unplugged, it seems to warm up faster than I'd expect, so insulation isn't amazing but the cover will help with that. No good scientific tests though.

I did repurpose our fridge thermometers to the Iceco - seems like a lot more important information to have on a portable vs. a home one. I'll probably buy another set but I wonder if they'll interfere with each other. Hopefully all the metal the transmitters are in reduces their range just enough.
smile.amazon.com/dp/B004QJVU78agree

Contacted Iceco a week ago and they were quick to apologize and say they'd send the cover out ASAP. It just arrived, fits great, looks good, and looks like it's insulated enough to help.

So far only used the fridge one weekend but it cools down really quick. When unplugged, it seems to warm up faster than I'd expect, so insulation isn't amazing but the cover will help with that. No good scientific tests though.

I did repurpose our fridge thermometers to the Iceco - seems like a lot more important information to have on a portable vs. a home one. I'll probably buy another set but I wonder if they'll interfere with each other. Hopefully all the metal the transmitters are in reduces their range just enough.
smile.amazon.com/dp/B004QJVU78

I agree and want a cover for my VL45Pro S as well. Unfortunately, ICECO says about 6 months minimum before available . Pretty disappointin.

Try this for a wireless thermometer. Working great for me.

Amazon product ASIN B07TK22DQQ

 

[SharpeCat]

Finally, stopped raining long enough for me to get fridge installed in cargo area and snap few pictures. Well, stopped at least long enough for hurricane to hit us in few days

Anyway, ICECO VL45Pro S fridge fits great and with it strapped in you can open door about 45% of way without removing it completely. If fridge wasn’t strapped in you could probably open it further as it makes contact at top left corner where the Outback’s roofline tapers and ceiling height drops. Other than that, it fits great and looks like was made for a Subaru Outback. Also, I’ve got the cargo protector still installed so might be able get a little more room if I take that out. But, for now it’s fine and ultimately I want to get a slider or a drawer kit back there.

Officer: Sir, have you been drinking?
Me: Not, yet. However, can I get you a cold one out of the fridge? It’s a scorcher out today.
Officer: Proceeds to taser me because, ’Merica


Thank you again @SharpeCat for making it possible.

View attachment 2719788

View attachment 2719790

Wait a min, who’s working security for mud and how did a Subaru owner sneak in here? Is that thing even lifted??

Jk, we are happy to have ya! I can’t take all the credit though as I am only a small part of the bigger picture. Still I appreciate the feedback all the same.

The basis behind a group buy is that everyone participating helps each other save money, by buying together and from the same manufacturer (bulk discounts require a bulk of people!).

I assume you meant thanks boys! And girls.

 

[MiamiC70]

My Subaru identifies itself as a Toyota

The SubaruOutback.org forum is the least enthusiastic car enthusiast forum I have ever been on and I’ve been on a lot of forums.

I guess stereotypes are true

 

[CowboyTaco]

Kinda late to the party and getting caught up.

So just a quick review for you guys. My Iceco JP40 is currently serving as a beer fridge in my home office and gets transferred to one of two vehicles if we go on a road trip. Nothing like cold drinks on a hot day...especially with 3 kids under 5. Those little apple sauce pouches in the fridge are a game changer whether the kids are hot or thirsty....sort of a best of both worlds.

Anyway, I've got a Jackery Explorer 1000 and a 300. The 300 will keep it running for about 24 hours and the 1000 will keep it running around 4 days between charges. No issues with the fridge powering off and my beer is colder than if it was in the main fridge.

I went with the JP over the VL because of the shipping issues during the first and second GBs. Very happy that I did as it shows no visible signs of wear after nearly a year of constant use and being moved between vehicles.

Edit: the only issue that I had was the 12v plug staying seated in the jackery. The ARB 12v plug stays seated perfectly and has the same connector as the ICECO. If you have issues with the 12v plug staying connected, try the ARB plug. Amazon was the best deal at $28 shipped when I made my order. Other places had it for the same price but wanted ~$18 shipping.

 

[MiamiC70]

Kinda late to the party and getting caught up.

So just a quick review for you guys. My Iceco JP40 is currently serving as a beer fridge in my home office and gets transferred to one of two vehicles if we go on a road trip. Nothing like cold drinks on a hot day...especially with 3 kids under 5. Those little apple sauce pouches in the fridge are a game changer whether the kids are hot or thirsty....sort of a best of both worlds.

Anyway, I've got a Jackery Explorer 1000 and a 300. The 300 will keep it running for about 24 hours and the 1000 will keep it running around 4 days between charges. No issues with the fridge powering off and my beer is colder than if it was in the main fridge.

I went with the JP over the VL because of the shipping issues during the first and second GBs. Very happy that I did as it shows no visible signs of wear after nearly a year of constant use and being moved between vehicles.

Edit: the only issue that I had was the 12v plug staying seated in the jackery. The ARB 12v plug stays seated perfectly and has the same connector as the ICECO. If you have issues with the 12v plug staying connected, try the ARB plug. Amazon was the best deal at $28 shipped when I made my order. Other places had it for the same price but wanted ~$18 shipping.

I found same issues with plug just so I too just picked up ARB 12v cigarette plug.

 

[tritonl]

I have a quick question to everyone. I will install the fridge slide in my trailer, at the moment when extending, the slide rail hits the bottom door jamb. I just need to lift it about 1/4" to clear it. Now can i just put a small spacer in the few locations where the fridge slide will bolt into the floor or do I need to put something under the entire footprint of the slide?
I was even thinking of using some rubber spacers to give it some vibration buffer between the trailer and the slide.

 

[SharpeCat]

I have a quick question to everyone. I will install the fridge slide in my trailer, at the moment when extending, the slide rail hits the bottom door jamb. I just need to lift it about 1/4" to clear it. Now can i just put a small spacer in the few locations where the fridge slide will bolt into the floor or do I need to put something under the entire footprint of the slide?
I was even thinking of using some rubber spacers to give it some vibration buffer between the trailer and the slide.

Good question, I’m curious as well. I think most members install them on some sort of drawer/platform so you’re the first person I know to bring this up. It would be wasting valuable storage space if you didn’t put a drawer underneath, so maybe worth considering for the long term.

 

[Lalalx470]

I have a quick question to everyone. I will install the fridge slide in my trailer, at the moment when extending, the slide rail hits the bottom door jamb. I just need to lift it about 1/4" to clear it. Now can i just put a small spacer in the few locations where the fridge slide will bolt into the floor or do I need to put something under the entire footprint of the slide?
I was even thinking of using some rubber spacers to give it some vibration buffer between the trailer and the slide.

Depends on how much load distribution you need. Metal floor or thick would, and you should be fine with spacers. Keep in mind that anything low durometer (aka soft) will compress and degrade overtime. Probably just as easy to get some steel flat strap and shim it up. Best of luck on your project!

 

[lx200inAR]

Well, I gave my tr45 a few days to settle and turned it on again. Still won’t go below 25 degrees or so. Guess I’ll be attempting warranty/service. We will see how it goes.

Got a new TR45 from IceCo. They sent it to me without having to return the old one until I received the new one. The service was almost A+. One little hiccup with shipping the replacement where it sat on the warehouse floor for a few days until I emailed them asking why UPS hadn't picked it up yet. It went out the next day and the new one works great. No trouble going below 25 degrees and it runs off my jump start battery in it's lowest voltage safety setting. It ran off the jump start battery until it was down to 8%, then it triggered the low voltage error. I can live with that for sure. Testing it now to see how long it will run while the jumpstart battery is plugged in. Later I'll try a test of how long it will run without the battery charging, but for now testing to see how long it will go this way. The cooler still tripped my 100 watt built in inverter plugged in directly. The 22.5 watt jump battery charger doesn't trip it, so for now while driving this can be how I keep it running until I run a permanent 12v connection to the back of the truck, or remove my back seats and tap into that.

Testing so far is it only took 5% off the battery for 2hrs runtime. When I plugged the cooler in it was at 32 degrees, so I turned it down to 16 just to force the compressor on. It cooled to 16 pretty quick and has been holding steady. This is in my house, so it's only 72 degrees inside, but I suspect it would be the same in my truck while it's running.

Also, just for data points. I used a wireless thermometer to test how close the temperature gauge was and it was only off by 2-3 degrees as I lowered the cooler from 35 degrees down to 10. The temperature display must measure off the coils or something, rather than air temperature in the cooler, because it doesn't fluctuate up if you open the cooler much if at all. This is probably better, as it would probably kick the compressor on every time you opened it otherwise.

 

[Fj80oregon]

Sorry if I missed the end date? Is the sale still active? Thanks

 

[SharpeCat]

Got a new TR45 from IceCo. They sent it to me without having to return the old one until I received the new one. The service was almost A+. One little hiccup with shipping the replacement where it sat on the warehouse floor for a few days until I emailed them asking why UPS hadn't picked it up yet. It went out the next day and the new one works great. No trouble going below 25 degrees and it runs off my jump start battery in it's lowest voltage safety setting. It ran off the jump start battery until it was down to 8%, then it triggered the low voltage error. I can live with that for sure. Testing it now to see how long it will run while the jumpstart battery is plugged in. Later I'll try a test of how long it will run without the battery charging, but for now testing to see how long it will go this way. The cooler still tripped my 100 watt built in inverter plugged in directly. The 22.5 watt jump battery charger doesn't trip it, so for now while driving this can be how I keep it running until I run a permanent 12v connection to the back of the truck, or remove my back seats and tap into that.

Testing so far is it only took 5% off the battery for 2hrs runtime. When I plugged the cooler in it was at 32 degrees, so I turned it down to 16 just to force the compressor on. It cooled to 16 pretty quick and has been holding steady. This is in my house, so it's only 72 degrees inside, but I suspect it would be the same in my truck while it's running.

Also, just for data points. I used a wireless thermometer to test how close the temperature gauge was and it was only off by 2-3 degrees as I lowered the cooler from 35 degrees down to 10. The temperature display must measure off the coils or something, rather than air temperature in the cooler, because it doesn't fluctuate up if you open the cooler much if at all. This is probably better, as it would probably kick the compressor on every time you opened it otherwise.

My guess is they measure the temperature of the internal walls through direct contact with the temp sensor, but that’s just a guess,

@Fj80oregon yes it is over, but they do one every few months or so for 20% off. I would keep tabs on their site/get on their email list. People often share deals here as well.

As for our GB, I plan on doing another closer to December (to get ready for next spring/summer).

 

[CowboyTaco]

I have a quick question to everyone. I will install the fridge slide in my trailer, at the moment when extending, the slide rail hits the bottom door jamb. I just need to lift it about 1/4" to clear it. Now can i just put a small spacer in the few locations where the fridge slide will bolt into the floor or do I need to put something under the entire footprint of the slide?
I was even thinking of using some rubber spacers to give it some vibration buffer between the trailer and the slide.

I'm late to the party (again), but I think you'd be find just using a spacer where it bolts in. If you get any binding or anything, then you'll have your answer.

 

[troyw]

I'm late to the party (again), but I think you'd be find just using a spacer where it bolts in. If you get any binding or anything, then you'll have your answer.

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