Anyone with experience using NH Oil Undercoating

[vishmuzty]

AMSOIL HD Metal Protector is pretty amazing stuff. Goes on like Fluid Film in aerosol form, dries to a wax-like consistency and fully cures to an almost semi-solid coating. Whereas Fluid Film can be wiped off with a rag, the AMSOIL stuff would require some serious solvent to remove. Should last a good long time... they claim 5-7 years. For the cost and effort of application (similar to Fluid Film), I prefer something that lasts 10x longer. Smell is less pleasant than Fluid Film but not overwhelming and it dissipates in a week. Definitely need more overspray protection and PPE (mask or respirator, coveralls, gloves) since it's tough to wash off once it starts to dry.

Sign up for AMSOIL preferred customer account ($10 for 6 months) and each can is like $8. I used 3 cans for entire underbody, tow hitch and engine compartment and bought a 4th can for touchups.

 

[wchain]

I'm going to be using fluid film in the next few weeks. I got a test can and it applied like the link you showed. Lots of people have used fluid film in the past.

this is awesome stuff!

 

[JOFS]

Buy bulk fluid film (gallon) and a spray gun. Hook it to a compressor and you will save money. You can put it on a thick aas you want,

If you have to do work on the truck
You don’t have to do anything other than take off hardware. It works like a lubricant as well. It doesn’t totally seal like previous undercoating I have used so it doesn’t rust from the inside out.

I apply twice a year and recently have not had to apply much to my trucks that I have applied previously. I got the deluxe kit on amazon with wands etc. after that I pay 40.00 a gallon at Napa and that will cover more than a truck unless I am really soaking it down.

If you go to sell the truck it also doesn’t give the appearance that you are hiding anything as you can wipe it off.

Does work well from my perspective but I haven’t used the amsoil product mentioned.

I have coated many of my friends vehicles and do find with appropriate application it can last 6 months to a year depending on the frequency of washing at commercial washes.

Good luck
John

 

[Kabanstva]

Yeah, maybe. I used to live in Mass but never cared about rust (back then), but from reading other Mud members' comments I think the key will be to proactively wash the undercarriage on a regular basis during the winter. From what I remember other guys' saying, I think if you take the time to powerwash the underbody regularly during the winter you should be good to go, so regardless of which product you use as a preventive layer, the importance will be in habitual washing. Hopefully Northeast and rust belt friends will chime in here...

This is not true at all. If you are using a wet undercoating like Fluid Film, you SHOULD NOT wash the undercarriage at all during the winter months. Fluid Film is a great product but it washes away rather easily, especially if it's a fresh application.

For instance, if I coat my undercarriage with Fluid Film in the early spring, in several months it will accumulate a nice layer of dirt and road grime on top of the coating, making it much more dense in consistency and more resistant to washout. If you undercoat it just before winter, that is not enough time for the product to build a chunky layer of road film on top and it will wash off very easily.

Many tests have shown that doing any kind of undercarriage washing, will simply strip the Fluid Film and expose your undercarriage to salt damage. I would not touch the undercarriage during winter, just wait until spring and do a low pressure wash with something like Salt-Away or even a regular water, or drive the trunk in the rain on the highway to clean everything.

Some guy even has a test on Youtube I believe on a Tacoma where he attached several pieces of high carbon steel (prone to rusting quickly) and did a test to see if washing during winter is helpful or detrimental to a product like Fluid Film. Of course, the plate that was regularly washed was completely rusted due to the washing process stripping the product, and the side that was not washed was rust free.

 

[Kabanstva]

AMSOIL HD Metal Protector is pretty amazing stuff. Goes on like Fluid Film in aerosol form, dries to a wax-like consistency and fully cures to an almost semi-solid coating. Whereas Fluid Film can be wiped off with a rag, the AMSOIL stuff would require some serious solvent to remove. Should last a good long time... they claim 5-7 years. For the cost and effort of application (similar to Fluid Film), I prefer something that lasts 10x longer. Smell is less pleasant than Fluid Film but not overwhelming and it dissipates in a week. Definitely need more overspray protection and PPE (mask or respirator, coveralls, gloves) since it's tough to wash off once it starts to dry.

Sign up for AMSOIL preferred customer account ($10 for 6 months) and each can is like $8. I used 3 cans for entire underbody, tow hitch and engine compartment and bought a 4th can for touchups.

Amsoil MPHD is one of my favorite products and I use it on high-wash areas like wheel wells, etc.
They changed the formula early this year. Now it's got a quicker curing time and doesn't creep as much as the old formula. Still smells and looks the same. I wish they offered it in a gallon, would be so much easier. The other issue is that the new aerosol can doesn't accept a 360 degree extension wand tip attachment like you can use with the old can. I modified mine to be able to still use it but definitely makes things a bit more challenging.

I've been doing some tests and the easiest way to remove MPHD is to spray Fluid Film on top of it and let it sit for about an hour.... the Fluid Film literally just dissolves the Amsoil and makes it easy to wipe off or blast it off completely with a pressure washer with no effort at all. Solvents do the trick as well, but way more work since they evaporate so quickly, they require constant re-wetting to break the MPHD down.

 

[Kabanstva]

Another great product to consider is the Boeshield T9. I use that to spray the exterior of the engine and transmission to prevent corrosion and hit the entire engine bay with it, all the pullies, brackets, etc. literally everything including door jamb hinges.

It cures completely dry after a couple of days of driving and won't attract dirt like Fluid Film. Can't even see it on there. Think of a trim dressing that has similar salt protection to Fluid Film and MPHD (as seen in all the tests done on the Raptor Forums).

T9 protects all areas up to 200 degrees Fahrenheit.

 

[crackers5250]

Hey everyone, have any of my New England neighbors used these people? NH Oil Undercoating | "The Good Stuff!" I am open to other options if someone thinks they have a better one, but definitely want to make sure that i treat my truck before each winter, since it's starting out in great shape. I can't do it myself, so it's going to a shop no matter what. For comparison purposes, it's $169 for the clear and $189 for the black. Thanks in advance.

I put fluid film on for a couple years and it didn't seem to last. I applied some called PFC (protection first class) from Berkibile oil which did a good job and lasted. I found the NHOU and thought I'd give it a try, unfortunately my back didn't hold out and was forced to find someone to do it for me. Just so happens I found a new dealer down here in PA and he did mine and my son's pickup and did a great job. My son's undercarriage was rough, rusty and dry. I just checked out after winter and the coating was still on really thick, and it did an amazing job. will probably either have him re do it again this year or might do myself but I would definitely recommend this or the Berkibile!

 

[spaber05]

Bringing this back from the dead. @4Beast how has the coating held up (assuming you've gone back re-apply)? Reason I ask is that my parents' '06 has just had it's sway bar mounts rust off the frame and this has me thinking about things that both they (and I, perhaps) should be considering for rust reformation/prevention. They are now having to look for someone to essentially do metal fab work since a dealership won't touch it with a 10 foot pole.

I'm thinking if these NH Oil guys got under there and did some good prep work and put on their good stuff it might help.

 

[4Beast]

Hey @spaber05! I'm still having good luck with it. I have a little surface rust on my diff, which I may treat with a little oil touchup, but overall, no serious corrosion, flaking etc. Obviously you're welcome to check it out whenever you like! It is certainly depressing to have to fight this losing battle, I wish they would go to a less corrosive road treatment...

 

[spaber05]

@4Beast : That's encouraging! My truck is originally from VA so I feel like I've got an advantage over most here in New England. That on top of my OCD not letting me go more than a week during the winter without a good power wash on the under carriage and I've managed to keep it pretty damn clean. But my parents '06 hasn't enjoyed the same cleanliness so I may encourage them to head up there and have them work their magic.

How long did the first coat last? Have you re-applied? How much was it out the door? I'm hoping they could spend a little extra time on removal vs coating but I'm not sure how that works.

 

[4Beast]

@4Beast : That's encouraging! My truck is originally from VA so I feel like I've got an advantage over most here in New England. That on top of my OCD not letting me go more than a week during the winter without a good power wash on the under carriage and I've managed to keep it pretty damn clean. But my parents '06 hasn't enjoyed the same cleanliness so I may encourage them to head up there and have them work their magic.

How long did the first coat last? Have you re-applied? How much was it out the door? I'm hoping they could spend a little extra time on removal vs coating but I'm not sure how that works.

Yeah, mine was from AR originally, so I was doing better at the beginning too.
I go once a year around Sept, October, before winter, and they only recommend yearly application. I don't wash it additionally a lot, although I do after beach trips etc., but only low pressure, as they don't recommend high. The price depends on whether you get it clear or black, I think the black was something like $180? They wouldn't really do any remediation, so you'd have to have someone else do that if you wanted that done before (or go at it with a wire brush yourself!).

 

[BenCC]

Any idea on the Krown rust control? It claims to remove rust and provide protection.

 

[4Beast]

Any idea on the Krown rust control? It claims to remove rust and provide protection.

I don't have personal experience, but I doubt it would "remove" rust. At best, cover it and stop/slow the progress, which is still worthwhile.

 

[BenCC]

I don't have personal experience, but I doubt it would "remove" rust. At best, cover it and stop/slow the progress, which is still worthwhile.

They claim the oil creeps under the rust and finally the rust/crust will fall off. I may try it. Some Krown stores just open near Columbus OH.

 

[4Beast]

They claim the oil creeps under the rust and finally the rust/crust will fall off. I may try it. Some Krown stores just open near Columbus OH.

I've certainly been accused of being a cynic a time or two, and I probably am, but that just sounds too good to be true. I would love to hear from a material sciences engineer or a chemist, but that doesn't even seem to make sense.