Anyone want to help turn wrenches on an FJ43 at Fort Bragg autoshop?

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CruiserShel said:
So when I tore it down I found two freeze plugs in the head had popped, which was a good sign because that is one possible explanation for water in the oil pan.

I got the new head from krzyabncanuck and a new set of gaskets from Toyota. I put it back together and filled it up with water to see if any water was finding its way to the oil pan (before I put actual oil and coolant in it). During that test I discovered that the thermostat housing (water outlet) was cracked. I ordered a new one and just got it, so I plan to put it on and try again tomorrow.

The good news is, during my test, no water found its way to the oil pan. Of course that was with a cold block and non-pressurized cooling system. The only real way to tell is after the engine runs and is warmed up.

I'll let you know tomorrow!
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Did you get things up and running?
 
Update:

I got the new head I bought from krzyabncanuck installed. It ran fine, but it seemed like I was still getting water in the oil. I ended up finding a cracked water jacket under the side cover. I was looking in to metal stitching or pinning as a repair option. The problem is, I think I have another crack somewhere. Water is still getting to the oil pan (I haven't run the engine in weeks, the oil drain plug has been out and I still get drips of water from the oil pan everyday). The little crack I found under the side cover isn't actually leaking, so there must be another crack hidden somewhere, probably the cylinder wall below the piston rings.

I bought a used 2F motor with unknown history and stripped it down this weekend. It had a spun rod bearing and the #6 piston rings were shattered, which grooved the cylinder wall, but I think it's still rebuildable. I dropped it off at Motor Parts and Machine in Fayetteville yesterday. I'm going to send the cam to Delta Cams for a regrind and put it all together in a couple weeks when everything is back from the machine shop. I plan to install a new oil pump since that spun bearing may have been from a lack of oil pressure.

Once it's all assembled I will do the engine swap.
 
CruiserShel said:
Update:

I got the new head I bought from krzyabncanuck installed. It ran fine, but it seemed like I was still getting water in the oil. I ended up finding a cracked water jacket under the side cover. I was looking in to metal stitching or pinning as a repair option. The problem is, I think I have another crack somewhere. Water is still getting to the oil pan (I haven't run the engine in weeks, the oil drain plug has been out and I still get drips of water from the oil pan everyday). The little crack I found under the side cover isn't actually leaking, so there must be another crack hidden somewhere, probably the cylinder wall below the piston rings.

I bought a used 2F motor with unknown history and stripped it down this weekend. It had a spun rod bearing and the #6 piston rings were shattered, which grooved the cylinder wall, but I think it's still rebuildable. I dropped it off at Motor Parts and Machine in Fayetteville yesterday. I'm going to send the cam to Delta Cams for a regrind and put it all together in a couple weeks when everything is back from the machine shop. I plan to install a new oil pump since that spun bearing may have been from a lack of oil pressure.

Once it's all assembled I will do the engine swap.
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Sorry man.

So your plan is to run the old pistons and not bore the block?
 
No the block needs to be bored. The head I just bought is a 61040, so I need flat top pistons, which are still available.
 
That sucks. Hopefully you can swap them out soon and get it back on the road.

In regard to shops, anyone have any dealings with Phils Toy Shop in Raleigh?
 
tinypaintedlady said:
In regard to shops, anyone have any dealings with Phils Toy Shop in Raleigh?
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Welcome Jen :)

Phil's has received good reviews from some of our members in the past. Some of which arent around here as much anymore. Not the cheapest (nor outrageous) but competant mechanic (and on the local TLCA network) who owns/owned a few 40s and worked on several 80/450s as well over the years so he has the mechanical knowledge of the toyota systems. Also focuses a fair amount on rovers so should have the electrical know how to help out as well :lol:

What specific issue do you need help with? May post up your own thread if seeking more assistance or recommendations in the area.

Another recommended import shop in cary that has treated folks fairly over the years.

Renaissance Auto Care
 
Thanks! Phil's Toy Shop is who did all of the maintenance on my 97 LX450 until I bought it about a year and a half ago. It's quite a drive though so I've taken care of everything since at home. I put in a new radiator, starter, and alternator but pretty sure I need the head gasket done and that seems daunting. Oil is going somewhere but I can't pinpoint it. No oil on my drive, not blowing smoke...but I go through a lot of oil. I left a message with Canuck Cruisers but I see he's out of town.
 
What area are you in? FBNC?
Fayetville/bragg?

Yes the Canuck is out for a while but may have a local recommendation for you if that area is correct. @krzyabncanuck ?

Here is an older thread with some recomendations but mostly rdu clt and gso concentrated.

Local shops to your area

Not to hijack this thread but how much oil per 1k or 5k miles? Maybe we can help you pinpoint some suspect areas. Post up an intro thread or show up at one of the monthly dinners; lots of folks willing to lend a hand and we all like gawking at a new truck around here.
 
tinypaintedlady said:
Thanks! Phil's Toy Shop is who did all of the maintenance on my 97 LX450 until I bought it about a year and a half ago. It's quite a drive though so I've taken care of everything since at home. I put in a new radiator, starter, and alternator but pretty sure I need the head gasket done and that seems daunting. Oil is going somewhere but I can't pinpoint it. No oil on my drive, not blowing smoke...but I go through a lot of oil. I left a message with Canuck Cruisers but I see he's out of town.
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Hello Jen. And welcome!

What Jason said .... post up your own thread and perhaps some good can come of it. From what you describe I would not begin worrying about the head gasket. Oil only has one high pressure passage between the block and the head in a 1FZ and it is not prone to failure.

Sorry for the hijack @CruiserShel ..... keep us posted on your progress.

Rice
 
CruiserShel said:
Update:

I got the new head I bought from krzyabncanuck installed. It ran fine, but it seemed like I was still getting water in the oil. I ended up finding a cracked water jacket under the side cover. I was looking in to metal stitching or pinning as a repair option. The problem is, I think I have another crack somewhere. Water is still getting to the oil pan (I haven't run the engine in weeks, the oil drain plug has been out and I still get drips of water from the oil pan everyday). The little crack I found under the side cover isn't actually leaking, so there must be another crack hidden somewhere, probably the cylinder wall below the piston rings.

I bought a used 2F motor with unknown history and stripped it down this weekend. It had a spun rod bearing and the #6 piston rings were shattered, which grooved the cylinder wall, but I think it's still rebuildable. I dropped it off at Motor Parts and Machine in Fayetteville yesterday. I'm going to send the cam to Delta Cams for a regrind and put it all together in a couple weeks when everything is back from the machine shop. I plan to install a new oil pump since that spun bearing may have been from a lack of oil pressure.

Once it's all assembled I will do the engine swap.
Click to expand...

Let me know if you need help one evening. I'm not a mechanic but it might make up a little for the surprise.
 
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