anyone undercoating 10 year old cruisers?
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i use mar-hyde rubberized undercoating. the stuff sticks unbelievably well to anything and creates a very tough, flexible, rubbery finish. use it to spot paint places on the cars before every winter. great stuff. be careful, as it will drip when spraying on and will ruin anything it drips on.
i use gear oil with high pressure with a spray gun with the gun on full spray.looks like s*** but where i come they use alot of salt
Best solution, period. Drips for a day or so, but it works. Straight 90W (buy the cheap stuff at WalMart or Pep Boys), heat it up on the camping stove, then spray it with a metal bug sprayer jug. I do this at least once a year, and there are sections of the frame on my '87 that I can scrape the goop off and I could actually wax the original factory paint job if I wanted to. I live in the hard-core rust belt, we use too much of that salt around here, it sucks.
Between treatments I use Amsoil MP Heavy Duty Metal Protector, very convenient in 16 oz spray cans. I go thru probably 4-5 cans a year, usually a can every time I change the oil, spraying hear and there as a touch-up where it needs it. It dries to a waxy-like coating, good stuff.
POR15 sucks, I hate that crap. I'll NEVER EVER use it again. Did all the prep work, followed the instructions to the letter, it flaked off a year later. Then the stuff got hard in the can, I've had to throw away more than I've used. Now when I install new parts or do welding on the frame, I give it a good coat of Rustoleum primer, then 2 coats of satin black. Then the oil treatment.
no s*** he would loosen the diff cover a little and let the ring and pinion do the work both front and rear.that old man used to crack me up
Looks like the solution to the salt problem is someones desire to keep their truck from rusting. The key is doing "SOMETHING" about it. Wash/wax the truck often, make sure the frame and other parts under the truck are covered with some type of rust protector and if you have rust nutralize it and then cover it with a good rust preventative. But the real solution is to stay on top of the potential problem and taking action when you see something. I think a lot of owners never look under their trucks
Quote; POR15 sucks, I hate that crap. I'll NEVER EVER use it again. Did all the prep work, followed the instructions to the letter, it flaked off a year later. Then the stuff got hard in the can, I've had to throw away more than I've used.
Sorry POR15 didn't work for you. Since applying this product i have had no real issues. I also followed the instructions to a T and have driven from California to maine 5 times (Once a year) since in all sorts of weather and it still looks like new.
My friend used Durabak smooth on his entire undercarriage and swears by it.
Sorry POR15 didn't work for you. Since applying this product i have had no real issues. I also followed the instructions to a T and have driven from California to maine 5 times (Once a year) since in all sorts of weather and it still looks like new.
My friend used Durabak smooth on his entire undercarriage and swears by it.
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macneill
Rollin’ on 33s
Not an 80, but I just had my 60 done with 3M.
Was considering Waxoyl, but was talked out of it.
Was considering Waxoyl, but was talked out of it.
Question about the gear oil thing. I've heard not to use motor oil because it can deteriorate and break down some rubber and plastics and was not good to use as an undercoat. Does that apply to gear oil? I was told that hydraulic fluid would not do that. Same with ATF. I currently use atf. It sprays fine out of my cheapo HVLP gun and works great. Also doesn't let mud stick to the frame etc. But it is thin and not as much stays on as 90W gear oil would. If gear oil is OK to use and wont rot the rubber and plastics then maybe I'll switch.
Multi-weight oils like 75W-90 and used engine oil will attack the rubber and plastics, single weights don't. I've always used straight 90W, no problems at all.
I think my biggest problem with POR15 is that it's just not worth the aggravation and expense. IMO Rustoleum works just as well, it's a LOT cheaper, lasts almost forever in a sealed can, and you can buy it everywhere.
I think my biggest problem with POR15 is that it's just not worth the aggravation and expense. IMO Rustoleum works just as well, it's a LOT cheaper, lasts almost forever in a sealed can, and you can buy it everywhere.
macneill
Rollin’ on 33s
I'm no expert on it, but Tedd up at Cruiser Solutions in NH recommended it and applied it.
I was aiming for Waxoyl, but he said he wasn't familiar with it.
The 60 was rust free underneath... I picked it up in AZ.
So it was preventative.Had Waxoyl years ago on a Volvo 244 ... worked ok but only kept the car about 5 years...the dealer undercoating/rust preventative applied to my wifes 2007 Camry here in Toronto looks exactly like Waxoyl right down to the yellowish colour...same as that applied to a friends '06 4Runner by his dealer.
As a kid I remember garages in Germany steaming the undercarriage of vehicles after an oil change and spraying the old oil (pre detergent and multigrade days) back on the vehicle.
The gentleman who owns the Krown franchise that does my annual spray tells me to avoid washing the vehicle in winter with a high pressure to avoid stripping the coating ALSO gave me a lengthy lecture on "why things rust" ... pointing out that dampness causes it and salt just attracts moisture...dry is good he emphasizes!
As a kid I remember garages in Germany steaming the undercarriage of vehicles after an oil change and spraying the old oil (pre detergent and multigrade days) back on the vehicle.
The gentleman who owns the Krown franchise that does my annual spray tells me to avoid washing the vehicle in winter with a high pressure to avoid stripping the coating ALSO gave me a lengthy lecture on "why things rust" ... pointing out that dampness causes it and salt just attracts moisture...dry is good he emphasizes!
it still stinks but after a coupls of days it goes away
I just brush on an epoxy primer and do an underwash reguarly. It's worked for me so far.
Kalawang
Kalawang
.. well that is what I responded with as well .... and he said "depends" .. if after washing the vehicle it doesn't dry thoroughly (which it typically won't where I live - southern Ontario - damp cold and hovering +/- freezing regularly) then it is best to leave it... if you are in Utah where I imagine your relative humidity is low...washing would be ok...just depends
Salt does more than just attract moisture. Live in a beach house for a year and I guarantee your brand new car will be a rust bucket at the end of that year. Even your electric clocks inside will rust out. A simpler and much less expensive experiment would be to hang a bit of galvanized steel outside a beach house. Same result even if you wash and dry that steel daily.
The only real defense is a waterproof barrier, the thicker the better, that can be washed clean. Paint really isn't enough, but the conditions I live in allow it to work for me. I tried old oil but didn't like the way it held on to road dust and dirt. It also enforces an underbody wash prior to any underbody work you might have to do. For much the same reason I don't like the black tar things.
I think, if they sprayed salt on the roads I drove, I'd be looking at truck bed liners that can be brushed on. I'd even consider layering, as long as it dried clean and could be washed.
Kalawang
I think the worst treatment you can use up here is the hard and thick asphalt type of undercoating that was prevalent about 15-20 years ago.....particularly with any vehicle that may see gravel road use.
Stone chips and fractures create an entry point ... then the remaining undercoating holds the salt/moisture against the metal till it dissolves with rust - washing frequently simply provides more moisture to end up trapped.....lots of floorboards in older cars were reinforced with old expired license plates under the carpet cause of this...
those of us who live around the Great Lakes probably have the worst conditions in North America (according to a Subaru engineer while explaining their move to double sided galvanized sheet metal) because of the ambient humidity caused by the proximity of lots of lake water - the constant cold damp weather for many months and the road salt.....
Salt water proximity may be as big a problem but my limited exposure to west coast (including Victoria BC) vehicles suggests that that environment is a "cakewalk" compared to the Great Lakes areas like Ontario & Michigan etc
Stone chips and fractures create an entry point ... then the remaining undercoating holds the salt/moisture against the metal till it dissolves with rust - washing frequently simply provides more moisture to end up trapped.....lots of floorboards in older cars were reinforced with old expired license plates under the carpet cause of this...
those of us who live around the Great Lakes probably have the worst conditions in North America (according to a Subaru engineer while explaining their move to double sided galvanized sheet metal) because of the ambient humidity caused by the proximity of lots of lake water - the constant cold damp weather for many months and the road salt.....
Salt water proximity may be as big a problem but my limited exposure to west coast (including Victoria BC) vehicles suggests that that environment is a "cakewalk" compared to the Great Lakes areas like Ontario & Michigan etc
