I was thinking using one of these for the rivets.
Anyone taken a frame apart?
- Thread starter chesshircat
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OK...now seriously, I was looking at some of the Michigan Pneumatic hammers, or something similar for hot rivets...they look something like the rivet busters pictured below from Texas Pneumatic Tools. I know it won't be easy. I think I know of a couple not too far from me that I may be able to borrow, but I am not there yet.
Not what Toyota used I'm sure, but, if done properly I see no reasons why this wouldn't work for the kind of restoration I want to do to the '61. Once in, the hot rivets will pull the metal together as they cool.
What do you guys think?
Not what Toyota used I'm sure, but, if done properly I see no reasons why this wouldn't work for the kind of restoration I want to do to the '61. Once in, the hot rivets will pull the metal together as they cool.
What do you guys think?
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Coolerman
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You're a funny guy...
good one. He is definately a funny guy.
Living in the Past
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That's the same one I was planning on using it just the the pin in the center after your done is ugly. If it wasn't for that I might had done it
I been lick that I was able to find some real clean frames in a junk yard. I cut the back foot and a half off. So at least the rivet heads that show from the back will still be original since I will replace the back brackets. I just have to deal with the top and bottom rivits. I guess another avantage mine weren't rusted just holes drilled by the PO to install trailer light sockets
pb4ugo
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Years ago i worked for a fastener supply house and we used to stk rivits similar what we are talking about. I recall selling some 1 time. I know nothing on the tooling required for them. The company name was Service Supply, it's new name is Wurth-Service Supply. FYI
John I would trade you in a second, and not even consider doing this much work, but as you know the '61's inner frame is toast, and I'd have no choice if I want to get it saved correctly...besides John, I wouldn't say you lucked out finding such fantastic parts, (well maybe a little lucky) but truth is you worked hard to be at the right place at the right time, and you should enjoy what you found. What kind/size head did you have on the riveter?
I tend to keep things light, things are hard enough these days. I come on mud to enjoy peoples rigs, thoughts, and experiences...it's just not worth getting upset over different opinions, and tastes...what's that saying...Don't sweat the small stuff!
Here is another camera phone photo I took this afternoon of some of the Rivot/bolts I machined down. Thes are installed on the front bumper bracket. Unfortunatly the person that removed the original rivots didnt do it very carefully(previous owner). But you can at least see what thes bolt heads ended up looking like. I machined them to exact shape and specs of the factory rivot dimensions. Torqueing them down was as easy as it gets. with these four I did not have to hold the bolt at all to prevent spin. Just a lock washer, nut and first application with the impact driver locked it in. It was then torqued with zero slip. I will have to toot my own horn...they really look good. I will post more of the rear bumper area as soon as I get my new channel back from the fabricator this afternoon.
Looks great! Absolutely great!
I'm about to undertake some frame rebuilding and was just going to use bolts, but now, pm sent!About the torque...they really dont need as much as everyone would think. They need about 30-40 ft-lbs of torque(this is generous). Use an air driven impact wrench which will end up giving you up to 50-60 ft-lbs. This is more than enough torque. That is the word that I have gotten from three seperate engineers(aerospace and structural). you could put a tack weld on the threads to prevent it from backing out but we have all agreed its not necessary(over engineering). The lock washer is sufficient. Thread locker if it makes you sleep better at night.
Just so everyone knows....these torque figures weren't charted out...they were guessimations from extreamly experienced people.
Another general info point....Bolts are considerably stonger that rivots! Rivot strength can only begin to rival bolt strength when they are installed properly, with the correct equipment.
Just so everyone knows....these torque figures weren't charted out...they were guessimations from extreamly experienced people.
Another general info point....Bolts are considerably stonger that rivots! Rivot strength can only begin to rival bolt strength when they are installed properly, with the correct equipment.
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Just a little more info about bolt strength that might be helpful to some of you...
The sheer strength and tension strength of a 10mm bolt will be in the ballpark of aprox 3000 lbs either way. The Torque isnt going to be that crucial. For example...the rear bumper that I am replacing right now has 20 bols/rivots that suport it. 8 that are in tension and the rest in sheer. They will, together, support 60,000 lbs. A crazy amount of strength. Dont stress about the torque too much....torque the nuts tight enough to make sure they dont back out-thats whats important.
The sheer strength and tension strength of a 10mm bolt will be in the ballpark of aprox 3000 lbs either way. The Torque isnt going to be that crucial. For example...the rear bumper that I am replacing right now has 20 bols/rivots that suport it. 8 that are in tension and the rest in sheer. They will, together, support 60,000 lbs. A crazy amount of strength. Dont stress about the torque too much....torque the nuts tight enough to make sure they dont back out-thats whats important.
MaJoJo4 I think your machined bolt looks pretty sweet and for your application I think it will work fine. I would check the torque on it every once in a while or maybe even put a self locking nut on it. From an aircraft mechanics point of view I can tell you that there are several types of mechanical fasteners that are used daily in airframe maintenance that are acceptable replacements in most cases of a solid rivet like the OEM rivets on a 40. One post mentioned one of them which is called a "Huck bolt" you also have Hi-Locks and Jo-Bolts. All come in various head styles and diameters. And they differ in the type of mechanical locking mechanism they use. Huck Bolts and Hi-Locks have a allen head receptical in the THREADED END of the fastener to aid in tightening. Once the correct torque is reached the threaded end will shear off and the fastener is installed. Some mechanical fasteners require special tools / pullers to install but that maybe over kill for this type of application. You can google these names and find plenty of places to purchase. Just my .02 worth....please feel free to correct me if this info is not spot on....but please....DON'T CALL ME...BUD
LOL Thanks for the post. I will be sure not to call anyone "bud" anymore! 
OK...here are some pics of the rear bumper that I fabed...with the rivot/bolts that i machined in place. I have some small work to do to finish this bumper tomorrow but I just had to go for a dry run to get some pics.
OK...here are some pics of the rear bumper that I fabed...with the rivot/bolts that i machined in place. I have some small work to do to finish this bumper tomorrow but I just had to go for a dry run to get some pics.
This thread might interest you
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/196909-rear-diag-cross-member-question.html
