Anyone Running Redarc BCDC1240D? (3 Viewers)

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Ran a search and found several running the 25 amp Redarc and some who didn't disclose which they had, but could not find any stating they were running the 1240D. Sounds like it should be okay after receiving this as part of an email reply from Redarc:

"I generally suggest to people, you can take a maximum of 50% of the alternators rated power for auxiliary battery charging i.e. 90Amp alternator + 45Amps maximum in accessories like running BCDC chargers."

Will be charging 300ah Lithium setup in our trailer.
 
I think Eric Sargent at Ed Martin Toyota specs the 1240 as standard on their new 200 series builds.

I have the 1225.
 
Ran a search and found several running the 25 amp Redarc and some who didn't disclose which they had, but could not find any stating they were running the 1240D. Sounds like it should be okay after receiving this as part of an email reply from Redarc:

"I generally suggest to people, you can take a maximum of 50% of the alternators rated power for auxiliary battery charging i.e. 90Amp alternator + 45Amps maximum in accessories like running BCDC chargers."

Will be charging 300ah Lithium setup in our trailer.
If you are doing a 300ah setup then I would say the 1240 is what you would want. I used the 1225 because I was just doing a single Aux AGM battery, and that was better than the 1240 in that setup.
 
I’m running the 1240D to charge a 100AH LiFePo4 battery.

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Can anyone school me on what this is designed to do for your vehicle?
 
Will an isolator do the same thing?
No, the Redarc BCDC will adjust the charge for the type of chemistry the battery has and its state of charge that it is connected to. Isolator will not do that.
 
Will an isolator do the same thing?

A battery isolator is a much simpler device that splits alternator charging between the starting and auxiliary batteries. They don't have a provision for solar, and you can't (or shouldn't) mix battery types as generally they are not "smart" devices. With a BCDC, your aux battery can be a different chemistry, the unit has charging profiles like a true battery charger, and of course, solar.
 
Awesome, thanks to all for the reassurance.

Full reply below after I had asked about simultaneous charging and the priorities/loads when using solar and the alternator. Maybe it will help someone else decide.

"Thank you for your inquiry, I hope you and your families are coping ok during these extraordinarily difficult times.

I’ve attached a copy of the product manual for your reference, page 11 we illustrate typical wiring diagrams and I’d suggest a minimum 8AWG cable for the BCDC1225D main power connections.

The BCDC*D range features a Maximum Power Point Tracking (MPPT) solar regulator, the BCDC1225D will charge from both solar and the alternator simultaneously.

And, with built-in Green Power Priority it will select solar charging first, meaning less load on the alternator.

It will however only take what the solar input can provide and then supplement the power from the alternator up to the maximum current rating of the BCDC and/or current draw at the time.

There is no way to reduce the load take from the alternator, e.g. at nigh time 100% energy will be drawn from the vehicle alternator.

I generally suggest to people, you can take a maximum of 50% of the alternators rated power for auxiliary battery charging i.e. 90Amp alternator + 45Amps maximum in accessories like running BCDC chargers.

Below is a list of the required REDARC part numbers:

 
Do you need at Ford Doide for that 1 amp vs the factory .5 on the alternator still then??? Sorry I'm very interested
 
The diode only really helps with charging the primary (starting) battery, the BCDC manages the amount of charge going to the auxiliary (house) battery. Keep in mind the diode won't work with newer vehicles (16+ IIRC).
 
Agree with other that you should go 1240 over 1225, but there are other factors to consider:

I just put a 1225 in my trailer, so I’ve done all the math below for my situation. Redarc recommends the BCDC be installed closest to the aux battery, so you’ll likely want to put it in the trailer. You don’t mention where you were going to install it.

1) are you committed to running a large gauge from the front to the back of the truck? Consult the gauge vs length charts for the right gauge for 40A, but also consider the “entire length” including the run to the trailer battery compartment. You’ll need to fuse to protect that run, but I wouldn’t go larger than 60A to ensure you protect the BCDC and the cable run. There is also a good chart for this and the gauge call on BlueSea’s websites.if 1225 then fuse at 40A per redarc guidance.

2) 300Ah seems larger (and it is!) but you should also consider what deficit you’re trying to cover. Lithium can take 1C charge rates depending on which battery you’re using, but in this case 40A due to the max of the 1240D. Are there other sources of power like solar? Are those panels sized to also add to the battery loads? 300Ah is huge and if you’re only doing a few thing you might be able to run a long time on small or converselyif you’re running induction cooking and other big inverter loads, then it can go quick.

the reason i say this is if all you’re trying to do is keep things topped when going from home to camp, the 1240 might be overkill especially given the wire sizing and such that you have to consider. Also, recall that lithium profile requires charging at 14.3 ish, so with high voltage drops in long runs you’ll be pushing the DC-DC charger, which means heat to dissimpate on the BCDC.

if you’re average drive is short and the recovery load high then the 1240 might be better since the lithium can take charge quickly.

if you start full, drive longer, than maybe the 1225 is better. Will make you alternator happier and make the wiring a bit more simple to deal with. Cables larger than 6AWG require specialized crimpers, etc.

HTH
 
When would it be smart to use a Redarc manager 30? Is it worth the expense and/or investment?

Thank you Pals

Neto
 
I am installing a BCDC1240D in the rear of my truck to charge a Renogy 100ah Lipo4..
The idea was shorter recharge time and greater float time after it tops off. It will mainly power the Nation Luna, and some plugs in the rear, I am not planning on an Inverter right now.
The stock battery is just a normal wet cell G27.
I will be running 4ga cable from the stock battery, with 60amp circuit breakers at each end (Anderson plugs in the rear for a manual disconnect as well).
The location will be cooled via the vent on the side of the cargo space and is mounted to a Goose gear box (part of the ultimate Chef system).
The rear seat fully reclines.

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