Anyone buy from CLASSIC RADIATORS on eBay?

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Their prices are very competitive and product looks solid. I'm sourcing the radiator for my 350TBI swap. The prices for Griffin, BeCool, etc. are INSANE. I sent them the BeCool specs to copy if possible. They do, however have two drop in solutions for our vehicles, one with mounting tabs, and one thats larger without.


:mad:
 
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No, and there are hundreds of these places that sell through Ebay.

eBay Motors: 02 MALIBU GRAND AM ALERO CLASSIC RADIATOR 03 04 05 (item 170237747454 end time Jul-11-08 16:30:42 PDT)

Here's one he's selling. It's not for you but I note this as an example. Did you notice this guy has 0 feedback in the last 12 months....makes me very skeptical. Remember you get what you pay for.

There are ways to go cheap. Just remember the less 'user-friendly' parts you buy the more creative (read WORK) you are going to have to do. You have admitted in other threads that your fabrication experience and ability is very limited. I'd be looking at a tried-and-true kit like the MAF 4+ that I have already suggested. Don't let that price scare you. It is very easy to get this or more wrapped up in a system then add in some learn-from-mistakes life credits and one can very easily be in way deeper.

Got links for either of these models you mention? Throw us a bone here!
 
My guess is that our Radiators cost significantly more than the dot.coms, but we have customers returning non-specific Radiators to whom ever they bought them from all day long in favor of our Radiators that were designed Toyota vehicle specific?????
 
Jim,
How does your Downey Off-Road #99619-2 FJ40 aluminum conversion radiator mount? In the stock cradle?

How large is the tube/fin area? Fins/inch?

Thickness? (one or two rows of 1" oval tubes, etc)

Epoxied or welded tube to manifolds?

What do you offer for a shroud?

Does your company make this or outsource it from someone like Ron Davis, BeCool, Griffin, other?

I understand if you can't or won't share this info. You have always been helpful and have the experience, for sure. I know the MAF system I have plugged to Alex works. I'm sure yours does too. I just want to know more about how you skin this cat.
 
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OK - someone school me on this...

Alex's ebay ad says it's a 2 core, I was under the impression you want a 3-4 core?
Maybe it's a copper vs brass thing? ;)
 
I have not seen a 4 core aluminum for sale anywhere. Only copper 4 core.
 
IH8 Aluminum!

If you are on the trail or in the middle of Podunk speaking to a buck-toothed inbred mechanic who asks 'what kinda' Chevy is that (while pointing to your FJ)', then you need something that is easily fixable. You can braize (or however you spell it) brass. You cannot really do a quality long lasting repair on Aluminum.

Any mechanic, no matter how behind the times knows how to use high temp solder, flux and a torch.

Also, brass stands up better to corrosion IMHO. One battery spill from a loose battery or in an accident and the rad is toast with Aluminum.

Just my $0.02. Your mileage may vary.
 
Yeah that's why I always keep a back up BeCool radiator in the rear with my gear.

Not.
 
That looks just like the BeCool, Downey or Advance Adapters direct fit. For $209 and no fab required it looks like a relatively inexpensive alternative to a bunch of custome fab work to make something else fit. I posted a thread about the capabilities of a direct-replacement drop-in aluminum rad some time ago and the consensus minus one person was that they still had much to be desired from a cooling standpoint. Make your own judgement.

See post 9:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/92199-best-price-drop-aluminum-fj40-radiator.html

Plus if you buy from this guy he will save your soul....priceless.
 
Also, brass stands up better to corrosion IMHO. One battery spill from a loose battery or in an accident and the rad is toast with Aluminum.

:eek: dude are you serious? Battery hold downs are your friend...

I live on a sandbar, 13miles out in the water, the land is only 4 miles wide, we have a SLIGHT issue with rust/salt here...

We use alum for a reason on boats... just sayin. :hhmm:
I am going to give one of these a shot (just orederd it) Ill post up here when it comes in.
:cheers:
 
I also live by a small salt pond...

:eek: dude are you serious? Battery hold downs are your friend...

I live on a sandbar, 13miles out in the water, the land is only 4 miles wide, we have a SLIGHT issue with rust/salt here...

We use alum for a reason on boats... just sayin. :hhmm:
I am going to give one of these a shot (just orederd it) Ill post up here when it comes in.
:cheers:


I live by a small salt water pond too. (My town made the news when a fully loaded commercial jet plane crashed on my block in 2001 and killed my neighbors.) That area is between a salt water bay and the Atlantic. We also suffer with rust and corrosion issues, so I know where you are coming from. Many of us also have boats out here, so I also know where you are coming from there too. And we all 4 wheel in the ocean. I have never liked Aluminum, but like I said, that is just my $.02.

As far as brass, a little acid from someone's battery, a little flux, a little heat and a little solder can get you back to playing in less than 10 minutes, and it lasts forever. Brass is also more ductile, meaning it has less of a desire to crack when bent. Brass undergoes "plastic deformation", but it usually holds water. When you 4 wheel, things sometimes just pop up. Some of those things seem to look for radiators. I like knowing my rad can bend and not break, and I like to know it can be repaired easily.

There are lotsa' people here who know more about Landcruisers than I do. I respect that. It is just that I have wrenched for the last 25 years plus, and I have made the Aluminum radiator mistake. I respect those who want to use Aluminum. It is just that unles you come prepared with a 800 degree F torch and Alumiweld/Duraweld (not a common product that people would know about), you will have issues fixing a rad on the trail or on the way to work. On the other hand, brass rads require lower temp torches to melt a solder mix and flux that you can easily get anywhere including Radio Schlock.

Knowing I can get a torch, flux, and solder at Radio Schlock or at the local dollar store in order to save a day of wheeling is priceless.

Once again, my $0.02, and your mileage will vary. I am not looking to disrespect anyone here. I respect all the Aluminum guys. Please also respect my viewpoints.
 
aluminum radiator + TX summer = happy everybody.

dave- why would the drop-in be an issue if it is to the same specs as the BeCool?
 
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aluminum radiator + TX summer = happy everybody.

dave- why would the drop-in be an issue if it is to the same specs as the BeCool?


The drop-in replacements that fit in the OE cradle so not have any more surface area than the stocker.
 
I got my alum ebay rad last week and I have to say so far I think I got what I paid for. The welds are the best Tig work I have ever seen, and it is made in China, but for $200 +shipping what do ya expect? I havent tried to drop it in the stock cradle yet and the drain isnt the super long stock one, its just a plastic plug with a rubber O-ring. Just a couple observations I have made so far.
 
Pics?
You gotta tell us about it!!!!
 

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