Anybody change ATF after 163K?

[lcv8]

I was looking at a local land cruiser and the owner has all the service records but it never had any trans service. I looked some of it up and it is supposed to be lifetime whatever that means. It is called world standard fluid.

I am not sure about not doing anything though. Has anybody here done a trans fluid flush for the first time with at least 163K on the clock?

Thanks

Mark

 

[fumetsu]

I personally think that new fluid is better than old fluid, even for old transmissions, as long as you are employing a passive style of flushing (go through cooler lines and use the pump to your advantage in moving new oil in, and not use the machine like they do at lots of shops).

 

[jemsec]

Most drain about 3 quarts with every oil change. If you remove the transmission drain plug 3 quarts will flow out and no more. If you do this with every oil change I doubt a transmission flush will be necessary. Besides many think a flush can cause issues and would advise against it. It another way for a shop to sell something you may not need. If you want to replace all the fluid there are threads here to step you through. Changing and flushing are two different procedures. Go with the change as a suggestion.

 

[apdxyk]

No here, but I have seen some notions on a 4-Runner board about changing at 400k for the first time
(not on this site). Not sure as to whether this was the same AT, but it was the same ATF you are concerned about. You may come across various negative opinions on the fluid in a lot of places without a single bit of data to support those. Some folks simply parrot with authority.

 

[jemsec]

Please explain further apdxyk.

 

[camino70]

I'm not sure you'll find a consensus on this, but I agree with 2002lx470.

I personally think that new fluid is better than old fluid, even for old transmissions, as long as you are employing a passive style of flushing (go through cooler lines and use the pump to your advantage in moving new oil in).

 

[uHu]

Just get some new fluid in there asap. The easiest/fastest is to just open the drain plug and measure how much you drain, and then fill the same quantity of new fluid through the fill hole.
If you want to do this a few times, you'll be good. Otherwise, do a flush.

 

[Jay-]

130K on my FJ80. I noticed a whining sound and looked and it was low!
I filled it up and it appeared to get low again but the whiny sound went away then came back again.

Been that way for years now so PFFFT what ever

never mind.

 

[labcab]

If you are considering purchasing and will be taking it for an inspection, take 3 quarts of ATF with you and have the mechanic pull the tranny's drain plug. It has a magnet on it that'll have some metal sludge stuck to it. If it has chunks, then walk away. I wouldn't worry about the fluid being changed for the first time at 163k. I didn't start the 3 quart drain/fill jemsec describes above until after I hit 200k.

 

[lcv8]

So no drain and fills until 200K on yours? Did you buy it new?

 

[lcv8]

No here, but I have seen some notions on a 4-Runner board about changing at 400k for the first time
(not on this site). Not sure as to whether this was the same AT, but it was the same ATF you are concerned about. You may come across various negative opinions on the fluid in a lot of places without a single bit of data to support those. Some folks simply parrot with authority.

Was everything ok after they did it?

 

[apdxyk]

Was everything ok after they did it?

Yes, went up to 800k on the second fill. He had to swap ATF due to his torque converter failure, which was changed, and ATF had to be drained and refilled. Just Google for '4-runner ws atf' and there will be many discussions, including blanket statements both positive and negative, of course

 

[feddomw]

Subscribed. I am currently in the exact same quandary.

My current thinking is as follows: drain and drop the pan, see what ATF looks like and clean off the magnets. If it's OK, just fill up the pan volume and drain and fill with some regularity.

I am still considering a flush, I just don't see the difference between the DIY flush using system pressure and the flush that a shop/specialist uses.I have seen the system in action, it's not using a high pressure system. So the difference or potential for damage must be the detergent. Tell me how I am wrong with this thinking.

Aldo, our transmissions are the same as Volvo, and here in the EU we have MANY high mileage Volvo's (especially the older 960/940 models are considered more bulletproof than our Cruisers). These Volvo's are regularly flushed, without issue. It's seen as a maintenance item

 

[labcab]

So no drain and fills until 200K on yours? Did you buy it new?

I bought it with 100k and the PO wasn't big on maintenance from what I could tell. Per the maintenance schedule, the dealer "inspected" the fluid at different intervals, but never suggested it needed changing. In fact, very little, other than changing just oilthe oil, was proposed by any mechanic I ever took it to.

At 199k, I was taking it for a state inspection and asked the counter guy to give it the full once over and come back with a list of everything I should do to ensure it goes another 200k. Tranny, PS and diff flushes/service finally showed up on the list with timing belt, water pump, bearings, etc. totaling $2500. So I started doing my own service beyond just oil changes.

If you know the truck has been wheeled hard or spent a ton of time towing, the lack of ATF maintenance might be an issue, but I would suspect your typical soccer-mom cruiser could go severely neglected for 200k and still be in great shape. These things are tanks.

Dean

 

[lcv8]

I bought it with 100k and the PO wasn't big on maintenance from what I could tell. Per the maintenance schedule, the dealer "inspected" the fluid at different intervals, but never suggested it needed changing. In fact, very little, other than changing just oilthe oil, was proposed by any mechanic I ever took it to.

At 199k, I was taking it for a state inspection and asked the counter guy to give it the full once over and come back with a list of everything I should do to ensure it goes another 200k. Tranny, PS and diff flushes/service finally showed up on the list with timing belt, water pump, bearings, etc. totaling $2500. So I started doing my own service beyond just oil changes.

If you know the truck has been wheeled hard or spent a ton of time towing, the lack of ATF maintenance might be an issue, but I would suspect your typical soccer-mom cruiser could go severely neglected for 200k and still be in great shape. These things are tanks.

Dean

Any improvement after you changes the ATF?

 

[lcv8]

Subscribed. I am currently in the exact same quandary.

My current thinking is as follows: drain and drop the pan, see what ATF looks like and clean off the magnets. If it's OK, just fill up the pan volume and drain and fill with some regularity.

I am still considering a flush, I just don't see the difference between the DIY flush using system pressure and the flush that a shop/specialist uses.I have seen the system in action, it's not using a high pressure system. So the difference or potential for damage must be the detergent. Tell me how I am wrong with this thinking.

Aldo, our transmissions are the same as Volvo, and here in the EU we have MANY high mileage Volvo's (especially the older 960/940 models are considered more bulletproof than our Cruisers). These Volvo's are regularly flushed, without issue. It's seen as a maintenance item

Yeah I said flush but what I mean is exchange. My Toyota dealer has a machine that does not use pressure to exchange the fluid. The drain and fill seems like a waste to me b/c you have to do it 3 times. Rather just do it once and be done. I just don't want to stir up metal shavings or kill the trans with new fluid.

 

[2001LC]

I'm in the camp of DIY flushing through the cooler lines. If transmission is so weak it crashes and burns, better now than on the open road. But I doubt you'll have any issues. Just make sure you use proper ATF fluid for your year.

I'm not big on drain and fill, especially if you don't know what's in their now. As I like to match fluids exactly. Honda/Acura recommends drain and fill in there very weak transmissions. They say to drain & fill, drive 5 miles and repeat 5 times. They only hold ~6qts IIRC, we have 12qts. So you'll need to do 10 to 15 times to match there procedure, and still you'll have old mixed in. Would you take a glass of sewage water, empty 25%, then top off with clean water and drink..

I use M1 full synthetic MV ATF in my 01 transmission and power steering, and love it. In 04 (possible 03) Toyota changed to a long life AFT, in transmission without a dip stick. Check you model year, if you have or don't have a dip stick is the tell of which fluid is best for you.

Dip stick makes DIY flush easier, just one more reason I like older models....

 

[elk]

I had mine done at Toyota using the fluid exchanger at approximately 178k on my 2006. I am currently at 198k with no ill effects, and perhaps a slightly smoother shift when cold.

 

[labcab]

Any improvement after you changes the ATF?

I've been doing 3 quarts per oil change, so any improvement has been gradual and difficult to notice. I haven't noticed any changes, positive or negative, but I didn't have any complaints or issues before.

 

[Tecnos]

I debated this and changed it at 200K. I just couldn't justify, in any way, that dirty fluid being better than clean. So far so good.