Any wrenchers in the Asheville area??? (Stripped oil pan bolt)

[sleepycruiser]

I was attempting to change the oil in our 2008 GX470. When putting the bolt back on the drain hole it just kept spinning. It appears to have had a helicoil on it as something resembling that came out. (The spring looking part in the pic is magnetic so not part of the oil pan).

Is it as simple as trying to put a helicoil back on it and seeing if that will tighten up? It is mangled in the pic bc I could not get the previous washer off the bolt so I had to pry it off with a flathead.

I tried a 12-16 mm conical drain plug but it would not thread.

So I ordered some helicoils to see if that will work, but if that doesn’t does anyone feel comfortable enough to drill and tap a new hole? Wife’s vehicle. Oops!!

I am hoping to put a Fumoto on it the next change to avoid this in the future….if possible.

 

[Malleus]

That wire doesn't look like a Helicoil (or any thread repair insert I'm familiar with); it's much too small and is has the wrong cross section. It looks like the threads in the sleeve that is welded into the pan bottom stripped out. Most likely the results or grease monkey(s) tightening the plug so it wouldn't leak, instead of installing a new crush washer.

You could try a Helicoil or Keensert; how well either would work depends on how much material is left for the insert to bite into. The instructions will tell you how large the hole has to be to accept the insert. Both manufacturers list this data on their websites, so you should be able to gauge in advance whether there is a likelihood of success or not.

Regardless of which insert you choose, if one will work at all, I'd be very concerned about doing this with the pan on the block. You'll never get all the debris out of the hole and some of it will be large enough to cause significant damage to the bearings and other internal engine surfaces.

I know that's not what you want to hear, but you need to be very cautious about trading convenience for this repair for a new engine. If it was me, and I had to remove the pan to fix this, and I think I probably would, I'd replace the pan and be done with it. You should be able to find one in a salvage yard that'll be usable and affordable.

Both Pull-A-Part and LKQ are near you, and you can search their websites for your model year range.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

That's probably not a helicoil, lol.

Take a pic of the drain hole in the pan. Are there any threads left inside?

 

[sleepycruiser]

That wire doesn't look like a Helicoil (or any thread repair insert I'm familiar with); it's much too small and is has the wrong cross section. It looks like the threads in the sleeve that is welded into the pan bottom stripped out. Most likely the results or grease monkey(s) tightening the plug so it wouldn't leak, instead of installing a new crush washer.

You could try a Helicoil or Keensert; how well either would work depends on how much material is left for the insert to bite into. The instructions will tell you how large the hole has to be to accept the insert. Both manufacturers list this data on their websites, so you should be able to gauge in advance whether there is a likelihood of success or not.

Regardless of which insert you choose, if one will work at all, I'd be very concerned about doing this with the pan on the block. You'll never get all the debris out of the hole and some of it will be large enough to cause significant damage to the bearings and other internal engine surfaces.

I know that's not what you want to hear, but you need to be very cautious about trading convenience for this repair for a new engine. If it was me, and I had to remove the pan to fix this, and I think I probably would, I'd replace the pan and be done with it. You should be able to find one in a salvage yard that'll be usable and affordable.

Both Pull-A-Part and LKQ are near you, and you can search their websites for your model year range.

Yeah, that is what I’m thinking….maybe just have someone replace the lower oil pan and put a Fumoto drain in it while they are at it. Ughh.

 

[sleepycruiser]

That's probably not a helicoil, lol.

Take a pic of the drain hole in the pan. Are there any threads left inside?

Might not be. Would the threads be aluminum? I’m not 100% sure. Just asking bc that coil in the pic stuck to a magnet. I’ll get some pics in the morning. I’ve been banging my head against the wall all day.

 

[Malleus]

I wouldn't trust an aftermarket plug over the Toyota drain plug. The biggest cause of failure like you describe is the one I gave. That's why I don't use those people. If I don't change my oil, the dealership does; they're the only ones I trust (even though it's ridiculously costly). At the very least, they'll install a new crush washer.

 

[Malleus]

Might not be. Would the threads be aluminum? I’m not 100% sure. Just asking bc that coil in the pic stuck to a magnet. I’ll get some pics in the morning. I’ve been banging my head against the wall all day.

The bung in the pan is steel.

 

[sleepycruiser]

I wouldn't trust an aftermarket plug over the Toyota drain plug. The biggest cause of failure like you describe is the one I gave. That's why I don't use those people. If I don't change my oil, the dealership does; they're the only ones I trust (even though it's ridiculously costly). At the very least, they'll install a new crush washer.

That is what I’m thinking. There are lots of used OEM on eBay. Just wondering if who torqued those in the past.

 

[sleepycruiser]

I wonder if the front diff etc has to be removed to replace it.

 

[Hokie LX]

I’ve used fumoto’s for years with no issues on 5-6 vehicles. I wouldn’t worry about the quality of them vs an oem drain plug. They’re good quality and you only install them once.

 

[sleepycruiser]

I’ve used fumoto’s for years with no issues on 5-6 vehicles. I wouldn’t worry about the quality of them vs an oem drain plug. They’re good quality and you only install them once.

I’ve heard good things. I’ll likely order one and have whoever replaces the oil pan put one on there.

 

[Scott11cruiser]

Well-sounds like you have your answer-but I'm new to the area and 1000% agree, that the pan will need to be replaced before a Fumoto or drain plug. Hit me up if I can help.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I’ve used fumoto’s for years with no issues on 5-6 vehicles. I wouldn’t worry about the quality of them vs an oem drain plug. They’re good quality and you only install them once.

I'll echo this. Got a fumoto on moonshine and the ferd. Makes oil changes way easier.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Furthermore, I wouldn't hesitate to helicoil the pan. It doesn't need to be replaced. Minimal torque, it just needs to seal, and the sealing surface is the outside washer, not the threads.

Just be careful, and flush it out with some oil through the engine oil fill. The pan's magnet will catch any extra steel, or failing that, the sump screen.

 

[sleepycruiser]

Furthermore, I wouldn't hesitate to helicoil the pan. It doesn't need to be replaced. Minimal torque, it just needs to seal, and the sealing surface is the outside washer, not the threads.

Just be careful, and flush it out with some oil through the engine oil fill. The pan's magnet will catch any extra steel, or failing that, the sump screen.

I got under there with a small metal pick and the threads are gone. Will the helicoil still work?

I’m confused on how to get the tang out…it doesn’t seem there is an easy way really. Hopefully a magnet would pull it to the hole.
Helicoil kit will be here Tuesday. I ordered a Fumoto as well…not sure if that can go on with the Helicoil.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

You're not grasping what's happening here. There is no tang there.

There was no helicoil. The thing you pulled out was not a helicoil, it was the original threads. They got pulled out from over torqueing the drain plug. Like Fred said, lube techs or someone else probably installed the drain plug too tight too many times, and you putting it on this last time was the last straw.

You're going to have to run a tap into the pan's threadless drain hole to cut new threads so that you can install a new helicoil. After that, you can install a new drain plug and sealing washer. That or replace the pan.

 

[sleepycruiser]

You're not grasping what's happening here. There is no tang there.

There was no helicoil. The thing you pulled out was not a helicoil, it was the original threads. They got pulled out from over torqueing the drain plug. Like Fred said, lube techs or someone else probably installed the drain plug too tight too many times, and you putting it on this last time was the last straw.

You're going to have to run a tap into the pan's threadless drain hole to cut new threads so that you can install a new helicoil. After that, you can install a new drain plug and sealing washer. That or replace the pan.

So to replace everything. The OEM pan is $100…$300 labor plus oil…plus towing it to the mechanic.

Would this work?

Help me decide on this product: BILITOOLS M12x1.25 Thread Repair Kit, HSS Drill Helicoil Repair Kit Metric https://a.co/d/amNQuki