Any recent Dissent rear bumper installations? TIps? (1 Viewer)

[CharlieS]

I'm about to install my Dissent rear bumper, and have the (awesome) instructions and have pored over the posts from @radman (thanks for doing this!). So many pieces parts...

It looks like there might be some tiny changes since the version he installed (for example, the two bolts under the trailer hitch and the need to tap the holes).

If you've done this install recently and can add any tips, tricks, ways to make it go more smoothy, please share!

Also, a silly question, but why are there so many "double washer" setups on the bolts. Does this do something special (like protect the powder coat)?

Anyone have instructions for installing the jerry can carrier? I'm sure I can muddle through it, but don't want to reinvent the wheel if I don't have to.

Thanks!!

 

[CharlieS]

In case anyone else has some of the same questions and bumps into this thread: I got confirmation from Dissent, the two taps aren't required for the current 200 series bumpers. They've eliminated the two 7/16" bolts at the bottom of the crossmember near the hitch, and the 1/4"-20 tap was for chasing threads, which they do before shipping now.

 

[radman]

Also, a silly question, but why are there so many "double washer" setups on the bolts. Does this do something special (like protect the powder coat)?

I think it just adds a little strength - torquing down a single washer into an opening could disform it a little. double washers stay flat.

 

[TOMSRYD]

Watching this thread as mine should be ready soon.

 

[customcruiser]

deal with the 7pin trailer connector (install in bumper and tap your leads if needed) and fitting the backup sensors before you start installing

 

[radman]

I just updated the rear.pdf in the original thread with a few changes that I know about (and included info on the 2008 crossmember and some of the new wiring diagrams).

they are constantly tweaking little things like the latch on the table, so the pics might not be exactly as i had them.

here are a few things:
1) use anti-seize on all stainless steel
2) there's 2 little piece of plastic that have to come off the stock trailer plug.
3) each wing gets 2 brackets with captive nuts. make sure those nuts are centered in the holes when you torque them down.
4) check your swingarm bumpstops for the first few weeks, and maybe even use some thread locker on them if you dont plan to remove them.
5) tighten the hinge bolt way more than you'll want to. I've check a few recently and they were on the loose side.
6) the instructions have the proper way to install the swingarms - you set them in place in the closed position and install the outer 2 bolts. then you open the arm and install the inner bolts. Make sure the pad is sitting flat on the striker plate after you do all this. I've seen some that only make contact on the front.
7) I have my spare tire sitting on the outer edge of the arm, and I'm able to retain the stock license plate location. There's slight protrusion from the rear view mirror, but it doesnt bother me. I recently got a warning for expired registration, and no mention of the tire blocking the plate.

 

[radman]

3) each wing gets 2 brackets with captive nuts. make sure those nuts are centered in the holes when you torque them down.

Actually, I would place the swingarm bracket onto the wing and then screw in all 4 bolts to the captive nut plates. Once everything is sitting correctly, torque down the 2 brackets to 100ft/lbs. The 5th hole can be used to run wires for CB or cell booster.

 

[kcjaz]

Actually, I would place the swingarm bracket onto the wing and then screw in all 4 bolts to the captive nut plates. Once everything is sitting correctly, torque down the 2 brackets to 100ft/lbs. The 5th hole can be used to run wires for CB or cell booster.

Do you mean place the swingarm brackets on the wing for alignment check BEFORE mounting the wings to the truck? If I am understanding what we’re talking about here, the internal brackets with the captive nuts must be installed and talked before the windows up.

I had trouble with this bit. I initially torqued the internal brackets with the captive nuts down before wing install and thought I had alignment by only installing the four bolts separately. But when I went to actually install the swing arm after the wings were on the truck there was not enough adjustment left to position the swing arm bracket. So off the wing went and a do over ensued.

@CharlieS, I have made some comments and notes with my bumper install in @radman’s posts and a couple other threads on this topic. You may have already seen these though.

 

[radman]

Do you mean place the swingarm brackets on the wing for alignment check BEFORE mounting the wings to the truck?

yep.
Use the hinge bracket (without the swingarm attached) to help line up the 4 bolts and 2 nutplates for each wing. I used the 5th hole and centered all the nuts, but I still had to use a die grinder to make the wing holes a little larger after it was all mounted. Part of this is because each wing has a bit of up/down movement as well.
A small angle on the wing will be exaggerated when the swingarm reaches the striker plate at the center of the bumper.

Should we move all this info to the install thread?

 

[customcruiser]

I had the same issue as @kcjaz but was able to loosen the plates get the arms mounted and torqued to.... who knows what

 

[radman]

I had the same issue as @kcjaz but was able to loosen the plates get the arms mounted and torqued to.... who knows what

you managed to loosen the nut plates with the wing installed??
i can't imagine how you got in to do that

 

[customcruiser]

Yeah not fun but it can be done

 

[kcjaz]

Yeah not fun but it can be done

I see how it’s possible but as you did it it must be. I would think that torque you would be able to achieve would be fat short of 100 ftlb though.

 

[customcruiser]

I see how it’s possible but as you did it it must be. I would think that torque you would be able to achieve would be fat short of 100 ftlb though.

3/4 or 7/8 standard box wrench... if I thought it was far short of 100 ftlbs I would have removed and started over.

I relocated the camera last night and am struggling with the camera cover. Maybe my 08 camera plug is taller than others but it doesn't sit flat and it's rubbed a spot where my old playe was.

First 2 pics have rear bolt holding cover on
3rd pic you can see pigtail to tall
4th pic cover removed
5th pic unplugged with cover - how it should go?

 

[customcruiser]

Fixed

 

[CharlieS]

Quick detach resonator.

 

[tbisaacs]

Fixed

View attachment 3018244

It's not called out instructions but I talked to Cole - you have to a) bend the bracket down and b) trim the lip slightly. No need to grind up your camera

 

[RobW0]

Quick detach resonator.

View attachment 3018248

So does this make the install easier, or you just wanted it gone?

 

[CharlieS]

So does this make the install easier, or you just wanted it gone?

I don't know if it will make the install easier, but it definitely was getting hammered as evidenced by all of the damage. I've actually been surprised by all of the hidden trail damage: smashed bottom of resonator, smashed top of exhast tip, bent factory tie down point, bent bottom of rear quarter (where you trim the edge for this bumper was bent up!).

I figured removing it would serve a few different purposes:1) less weight to help offset the additional bumper weight, 2) better clearance offroad, and 3) less stuff in the way of my bumper installation.

In terms of tips, I don't think the instructions mention taking off the rear tie down and tow hook, but I'm pretty sure it is needed to install the bumper wing supports.

 

[radman]

So does this make the install easier, or you just wanted it gone?

It makes it look less like an 80 year old’s dangling bits….

In terms of tips, I don't think the instructions mention taking off the rear tie down and tow hook, but I'm pretty sure it is needed to install the bumper wing supports.

Yes, all factory tow points come off.