The more I look at the TLC sitting in my shop the more I find that needs to be changed. The adapters to change the drivetrain are crazy expensive and still leave you with only a TLC t-case as an option because of the rear axle. I'm thinking a centered diff would open up a lot of options and cut out the stupid mark's adapters. That being said when I ran a series of searches I didn't find any rear axle swap threads showing what had to be hacked and moved to put a Dana, Toyota or GM or ??? axle in place. It also looks like moving the fuel tank and centering the driveshaft might open up some room for a nice straight shot exhaust system. Anyone have a link or some good ideas on the subject? Thanx
Any Dana, Toyota or GM centered diff rear axle builds out there?
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Why would any of that "need" to be changed? They wheel just fine with stock components.
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- #3
OK, I guess I have to defend my Toyota love at this point. Before anyone else starts a hatefest and shows us they bleed Toyota fluids let me explain why I myself desire drivetrain mods. I have suffered through 20 years of gutless 22REs because of their supposed durability (I've sure replaced a lot of head gaskets, heads, timing covers and w56 transmissions over the years) and the fact that they get 20+ MPG. As for the Tacomas and late model 4Runners, rack & pinion, CV shafts, no lock out hubs, need I say more?
Land Cruisers do wheel fine. I "wheel" less than 1% of the time. The rest of the time it would be nice to be able to pass a semi on the highway, pull a trailer, go uphill at the speed limit all the while getting more than 12 MPG. If I just wanted to "wheel" something I will take a Wrangler, 1st gen 4Runner, Samurai or 40 series but sometimes I want to be able to drive my 4x4 to the boonies, not take it on a trailer. The 80 series were the pinnacle of production 4x4 SUVs, comfortable, roomy, solid axles, lockers and many other ammenities making them capable off road vehicles that you can load the family in and go somewhere. Unfortunately Toyota like all manufacturers had the chance to hit one out of the park but they fell short in one or more areas. In the 80's case the shortcoming was the engine. If anyone here thinks the 3FE or 1FZ in their stock form are efficient powerhouses then the only other thing they have driven are naturally aspirated Ford or GM diesels from the 1980s. Sure you can stroke, supercharge or turbo a 3FE or 1FZ with some parts that you have to order from another continent but I want something that the NAPA store in PoDunk, TX or BumFukt, AZ is going to carry parts for, enter the GM drivetrain. Is the GM drivetrain as solid as the original? Probably not but I doubt I'll ever put enough miles on my expedition rig to wear the drivetrain out. If I do I can go to a junkyard and buy a complete low mileage GM drivetrain and swap it out once a year. That might be cheaper than doing the PM on the original drivetrain?
OK, there's the reason I wanna yank the boat anchor and slushbox. The t-case and FF rear axle are great but they are in an offset morphodite configuration that will not mate with any other commonly available components. Now if I can put a centered diff in the rear I can put any GM, MOPAR, Ford, Toyota or whatever 4x4 drivetrain my heart desires into the comfortable capable shell of an 80 series without buying a bunch of adapters and crap to match up different breeds of drivetrain components. It will still "wheel" just fine
Land Cruisers do wheel fine. I "wheel" less than 1% of the time. The rest of the time it would be nice to be able to pass a semi on the highway, pull a trailer, go uphill at the speed limit all the while getting more than 12 MPG. If I just wanted to "wheel" something I will take a Wrangler, 1st gen 4Runner, Samurai or 40 series but sometimes I want to be able to drive my 4x4 to the boonies, not take it on a trailer. The 80 series were the pinnacle of production 4x4 SUVs, comfortable, roomy, solid axles, lockers and many other ammenities making them capable off road vehicles that you can load the family in and go somewhere. Unfortunately Toyota like all manufacturers had the chance to hit one out of the park but they fell short in one or more areas. In the 80's case the shortcoming was the engine. If anyone here thinks the 3FE or 1FZ in their stock form are efficient powerhouses then the only other thing they have driven are naturally aspirated Ford or GM diesels from the 1980s. Sure you can stroke, supercharge or turbo a 3FE or 1FZ with some parts that you have to order from another continent but I want something that the NAPA store in PoDunk, TX or BumFukt, AZ is going to carry parts for, enter the GM drivetrain. Is the GM drivetrain as solid as the original? Probably not but I doubt I'll ever put enough miles on my expedition rig to wear the drivetrain out. If I do I can go to a junkyard and buy a complete low mileage GM drivetrain and swap it out once a year. That might be cheaper than doing the PM on the original drivetrain?
OK, there's the reason I wanna yank the boat anchor and slushbox. The t-case and FF rear axle are great but they are in an offset morphodite configuration that will not mate with any other commonly available components. Now if I can put a centered diff in the rear I can put any GM, MOPAR, Ford, Toyota or whatever 4x4 drivetrain my heart desires into the comfortable capable shell of an 80 series without buying a bunch of adapters and crap to match up different breeds of drivetrain components. It will still "wheel" just fine
Tulip
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I will state, just like you, I am not hear to offend any Toyota purists. I am merely answering your questions and giving you options.
I have thought about this as well so you are not alone. I do a ton of rockcrawling and have run big and small stuff. If it were me and I wanted to do what you were talking about, I would go Ford 9" all the way. However there is a caveat to this. This would be total custom setup and with that comes $$$. You would have to narrow it to get it to the correct width. Also, you will either need a jig to mount up all the FJ80 brackets and when you do, you better have a dowl rod and pucks to keep the axle from warping when welding on the brackets. If you are good at welding then that will cut some of your cost down. You will then need to buy custom axle shafts, and if you are going to regear it then there is that to consider. The good news is that there is a TON of aftermarket support is available for the Ford 9" stuff. Why do you think NASCAR runs them?
In regards to GM stuff, I wouldn't run any of their rear axles underneath a Cruiser with the exception of a Dana 60 which is another option for you. Narrowing and custom brackets, axle shafts and welding applying here as well.
Are you only thinking rear axle or front axle as well?
Hope this helps.
I have thought about this as well so you are not alone. I do a ton of rockcrawling and have run big and small stuff. If it were me and I wanted to do what you were talking about, I would go Ford 9" all the way. However there is a caveat to this. This would be total custom setup and with that comes $$$. You would have to narrow it to get it to the correct width. Also, you will either need a jig to mount up all the FJ80 brackets and when you do, you better have a dowl rod and pucks to keep the axle from warping when welding on the brackets. If you are good at welding then that will cut some of your cost down. You will then need to buy custom axle shafts, and if you are going to regear it then there is that to consider. The good news is that there is a TON of aftermarket support is available for the Ford 9" stuff. Why do you think NASCAR runs them?
In regards to GM stuff, I wouldn't run any of their rear axles underneath a Cruiser with the exception of a Dana 60 which is another option for you. Narrowing and custom brackets, axle shafts and welding applying here as well.
Are you only thinking rear axle or front axle as well?
Hope this helps.
The only real benefit your going to get is a new transmission/trasfercase. Are you planning on swapping out the motor with a V-something or other?
I would ask this question in the Hardcore section.
Along with what CID 96 said, there are a lot of options for swaps. Built LC axles will take a lot punishment, ask my 40. If you did a complete swap, like a 6bt, yea use the Dana 70 rear and a Dana 60 up front too. You'll need a new fuel tank. However getting adapters save all that work and then some.
NorCal Cruiser
I don't post much
If' you're thinking about doing an engine/transmission swap couldn't you just put in a Dana 18 transfer case since it's made for an offset right rear axle? You'd lose full time 4wd but if you're after fuel economy that's not a bad thing.
Check out dusty's build in the hardcore section. He has a centered D60 iirc.
- Thread starter
- #10
The grand plan is for a GM 5.3 and 4L60. A complete low mileage drivetrain can be had for about the same amount as the Mark's adapters. If the centered rear axle wasn't a major undertaking I would rather put more sweat equity into the project rather than dumping the cash into the adapter. I'll go search the hardcore section, I was after an 80 series specific swap so I thought it would be in this section. Thanx
Little known facts:
1. Offset rear axles can work fine with center output transfer cases as long as the angle does not exceed the operating angle of the U joints. The U joints don't know that they are not in the same verticle plane and that it looks wierd, they just pay attention to the angle.
2. Toyota used an offset transfer case/axle in the 1963 FJ40.
1. Offset rear axles can work fine with center output transfer cases as long as the angle does not exceed the operating angle of the U joints. The U joints don't know that they are not in the same verticle plane and that it looks wierd, they just pay attention to the angle.
2. Toyota used an offset transfer case/axle in the 1963 FJ40.
One note, ruffstuff and diamond axles have the 609, dana60 outers and 9" centersection. The weak link of the OEM axles are that the axle tubes can bend pretty easy and some prefer a pinion support for longevity with big tires and high torque. Now I have also seen where somewhere the ARB breaks easily in the 9" configuration... The 9" Daytona centersection uses larger pinion bearings too....
I started looking at other axle choices because I need new birfs. (New birfs are cheaper than a custom axle.)
I started looking at other axle choices because I need new birfs. (New birfs are cheaper than a custom axle.)
