That's usually how I like to operate too, but I get a lot of people that REALLY like my stock FJ60, since they are cool and so rare in the northeast, I am always worried I will come out of a store and find my truck gone just because they want the truck itself and not what's in it.
I put solonoid valves on the out lines of the master cylinder. Similar to a line lock. Looks and installs like a line lock, but will only let fluid through when 12V is applied. After power to it is turned off, I push down my brake pedal and all wheels are locked. No moving the car until 12V applied to the solonoid. It's a standard Parker valve sold at Industrial supply places. It needs to be installed opposite the fluid flow arrows shown on the valve.
Parker has no less than 50 versions. Either + or - or any combo to activate, and models with various Volt ranges and amp requirements to operate. I use an ignition power source with a hidden toggle switch in series. That way ignition must be on and toggle switch fliped for vehicle to move. I guess you could get fancy and use a combonation operated switch instead of a toggle switch.
I have used this method for 15 years and never had a solenoid fail.
It's a Parker Skinner valve part# 7121kbn1nf00n0c111c1
best used in conjunction with a hood lock.
Great idea... Very easy to install. Do you have a part number and price of this Parker valve?
Question--- Is there a bypass switch on the valve just incase. Say your battery dies and whever else. What could be the worst that could happen if the solenoid were to fail, or some part of the parker valve assy?
If you have battery failure and you press down your brake pedal after the battery failure, the vehicle won't move until 12VDC is applied.
Worst that could happen if the solenoid fails, is your brakes won't release. If the solenoids fail, they wouldn't prevent you from stopping the vehicle.
They are like a one way check valve stopping the return of the fluid.
If you have battery failure and you press down your brake pedal after the battery failure, the vehicle won't move until 12VDC is applied.
Worst that could happen if the solenoid fails, is your brakes won't release. If the solenoids fail, they wouldn't prevent you from stopping the vehicle.
They are like a one way check valve stopping the return of the fluid.
You say you have never had a failure in 15 years? What is the failure rate in this valve? Great idea, I am going to look into doing this myself. Thanks!
Sounds like a great idea.... but I'm nervous about the potential for 4wheel lockup if the wire jiggles loose while I'm driving on a bumpy road
Maybe just installing it on the rear wheels? At least then in a worst-case scenario you would be in a straight-line skid.
Or perhaps having two locks put in parallel so that you would need double failure... but that just seems a pain in the butt.
Depending on how much current is needed, you could just wire one up to be locked when energized.... but that would clearly only work for relatively short term.
I do like the lock-it-and-leave-it approach... but maybe a manual valve would work better (though less convenient).
FL cruiser said:
I put solonoid valves on the out lines of the master cylinder. Similar to a line lock. Looks and installs like a line lock, but will only let fluid through when 12V is applied. After power to it is turned off, I push down my brake pedal and all wheels are locked. No moving the car until 12V applied to the solonoid. It's a standard Parker valve sold at Industrial supply places. It needs to be installed opposite the fluid flow arrows shown on the valve.
Parker has no less than 50 versions. Either + or - or any combo to activate, and models with various Volt ranges and amp requirements to operate. I use an ignition power source with a hidden toggle switch in series. That way ignition must be on and toggle switch fliped for vehicle to move. I guess you could get fancy and use a combonation operated switch instead of a toggle switch.
I have used this method for 15 years and never had a solenoid fail.
It's a Parker Skinner valve part# 7121kbn1nf00n0c111c1
best used in conjunction with a hood lock.
I would say that if you carry a lot of cargo in your cruiser get the windows tinted. I know it's not stock but I would rather it not be stock and have dark windows, and the thief pass on by rather than breakin in and stealin all my gear. Another thing I saw was putting a GPS unit in your vehicle like under the body so if it was ever stolen you could track it.
Maybe I can put at least one fear to rest as far as locking up to make a vehicle skid:
It won't apply any more pressure on brakes or lock any more than the amount of pressure you put on the pedal.
As far as wires jiggling loose, I good solder and heat shrink should help.
Been severe duty tested in Costa Rica.
Got them on my HJ60, and on my brothers HJ45 pickup down there.
Fl Cruiser--- What if you were to use your idea but add a manual type switch in parallel left in the closed position and then you would have bypass just in case. What are your thoughts Fl Cruiser?
Leaving the truck in 4WD makes it a bit harder to pull around, 4lo has nothing to do with it other than it makes the top speed about 25. So if the shift lever is missing, you can't get very far very fast. Just another pain in the butt thing to make your truck less attractive.
one small can of pepper spray will solve that problem.
How about just removing your coil wire. Most people who steel cars will not waste their time trying to fix it. All the ideas are great, but what about someone with a tow truck. A tow truck can take a car in under a min.
This would work if you switch a plug wire and coil on the cap, It was a favorite trick I would pull in H.S. the car fires on one cyl and you think it going to start and keep trying, After the car was left I would come back and swtich it back.
me want shift lock. Where to findy?? In south africa i saw a "club" type thing that grabbed your steering wheel and the back of your clutch pedal at the same time is that here too?
If the vehicle is stolen the idea would alow police to kill engine.
I had this thought the other day and is used on Fueler trucks. The idea is to put a swich near the rear bumper struts if the land cruiser has them. Install the switch in a way that if the rear bumper is bumped from behind it will kill power to the edac in the engine compartment.
If your LC is stolen tell the police that the way to kill the vehicle is a slight bump from behind.
me want shift lock. Where to findy?? In south africa i saw a "club" type thing that grabbed your steering wheel and the back of your clutch pedal at the same time is that here too?
The club is only a visual deterrant, really. I saw a TV show where the theif used a hacksaw to cut through the steering wheel adjacent to the club location and then with one swift yank, the club pulled right through the wheel.
