- Thread starter
- #21
@Nemesis1207
I just finished installing a 86300-60060 auto antenna in a RHD Australian spec 1996 80 series, with a few tweaks to make it work more the way I wanted. It sounds like that uses a similar system (4 wire sensor plug, 2 wire motor plug) for the antenna as what your rig used originally. You should probably rely on info someone can test/confirm from your actual setup, but I know a lot about my similar setup with the work I did on it recently.
Yes, 4 wire sensor plug, 2 wire motor plug.
Some dumb questions here first though: It sounds like you already had a full power antenna setup, but the mast was broken, is that correct? If so, why not just replace the mast? The antenna I picked up also had a broken mast, but you can get aftermarket replacements that work just as well for cheap. I got this one for example: TOYOTA LANDCRUISER ANTENNA MAST Land cruiser (80 Series) 1990 to 1998 AERIAL 9328974008718 | eBay
I have the full power antenna with brand new antenna so I'd like to keep going that route. Originally the mast was broken, it had been dug into by PO, red and green wires cut for some reason. So, I opted to remove it and replace with new.
If that's not an option, I'd next ask what do you want to get out of this? If you just want to manually control the height of the antenna, and don't care about the antenna going up or down automatically when you turn the car/radio on or off, the best option is probably to remove the ECU entirely and directly wire your antenna up/down to the motor. In fact, earlier ARL non-power antenna models had a "dummy" plug in the antenna ECU socket from the factory that direct wired the antenna up/down buttons to the motor in this case. You could drop in the power antenna and the switch, and not use an ECU. At this time the buttons were grounded when not pressed, or carrying +12v when pressed, so it was sufficient to directly connect them to the antenna motor. In the 1995 ARL models the setup changed, with the buttons grounding to signal to the ECU when to raise/lower the antenna, which is what you have on your setup as I understand it. In this case, you could still do some rewiring at the switch and bridge a few wires at the ECU connector to make it work.
It sounds like this would work best. Just eliminate the ECU all together. So, I would run the two wires from the motor, directly to the switch? Which wires would I wire to on the switch? I'm not in front of it, but I would presume that the switch has 3 wires.
If you want the antenna to go up/down with the radio or car turning on and off, you need the ECU. In this case, I'd really recommend sticking with the 4+2 wire antenna unit. Major surgery to the ECU, or an ECU swap, would probably be required otherwise. Doesn't really sound worth the effort to me, but that's just my opinion.
I'm good with it being raised and lowered only with button.
I just finished installing a 86300-60060 auto antenna in a RHD Australian spec 1996 80 series, with a few tweaks to make it work more the way I wanted. It sounds like that uses a similar system (4 wire sensor plug, 2 wire motor plug) for the antenna as what your rig used originally. You should probably rely on info someone can test/confirm from your actual setup, but I know a lot about my similar setup with the work I did on it recently.
Yes, 4 wire sensor plug, 2 wire motor plug.
Some dumb questions here first though: It sounds like you already had a full power antenna setup, but the mast was broken, is that correct? If so, why not just replace the mast? The antenna I picked up also had a broken mast, but you can get aftermarket replacements that work just as well for cheap. I got this one for example: TOYOTA LANDCRUISER ANTENNA MAST Land cruiser (80 Series) 1990 to 1998 AERIAL 9328974008718 | eBay
I have the full power antenna with brand new antenna so I'd like to keep going that route. Originally the mast was broken, it had been dug into by PO, red and green wires cut for some reason. So, I opted to remove it and replace with new.
If that's not an option, I'd next ask what do you want to get out of this? If you just want to manually control the height of the antenna, and don't care about the antenna going up or down automatically when you turn the car/radio on or off, the best option is probably to remove the ECU entirely and directly wire your antenna up/down to the motor. In fact, earlier ARL non-power antenna models had a "dummy" plug in the antenna ECU socket from the factory that direct wired the antenna up/down buttons to the motor in this case. You could drop in the power antenna and the switch, and not use an ECU. At this time the buttons were grounded when not pressed, or carrying +12v when pressed, so it was sufficient to directly connect them to the antenna motor. In the 1995 ARL models the setup changed, with the buttons grounding to signal to the ECU when to raise/lower the antenna, which is what you have on your setup as I understand it. In this case, you could still do some rewiring at the switch and bridge a few wires at the ECU connector to make it work.
It sounds like this would work best. Just eliminate the ECU all together. So, I would run the two wires from the motor, directly to the switch? Which wires would I wire to on the switch? I'm not in front of it, but I would presume that the switch has 3 wires.
If you want the antenna to go up/down with the radio or car turning on and off, you need the ECU. In this case, I'd really recommend sticking with the 4+2 wire antenna unit. Major surgery to the ECU, or an ECU swap, would probably be required otherwise. Doesn't really sound worth the effort to me, but that's just my opinion.
I'm good with it being raised and lowered only with button.
