Another starter clicking

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I've read just about every thread related to this issue, so I know this is an old topic. Hoping to get some experienced advice.

History:
This began when I started to work on fixing the A/C on my 93. I replaced the condenser, evap, expansion valve and drier. I know this shouldnt be related, but it seems very coincidental. The battery cable was loosened to remove an electric fan that was connected to the old condenser. Aside from that, the only other work that was done that could affect starting was the shuffling of connectors under the dash when removing the evaporator.

About 3 or 4 days after doing this work, the starter began to just click (single click). It slowly got worse until it just wouldnt start. So I bought replacement contacts from the Oreilly. Reinstalled with no change. Then I jumped it with the wifes car and it started. So I thought it had to be the battery. I brought it in to get a replacement and it passed the test. So I reinstalled it after it charged and no start again. I pulled the starter again and brought it in to be tested and it passed. At this point I figured it had to be a connector in the dash so I pulled the evaporator out again and checked the wiring. Nothing was loose. While I was in there I checked voltage on the IH1 connector (feeds power from ignition down to neutral start switch). When in the start position I was getting 12.2V at this connector. I put everything back and checked voltage at the starter solenoid and got 11.85V. I assume this should be high enough since its making the solenoid click. I then ran a jumper direct from the battery to the solenoid (with battery at 12.4v) and it still just clicked.

So, with all that said, is it likely that the starter test at the store was random and that it is still likely to be the starter? The big cable from the battery to the starter looks to be in good shape.
 
Ditto: pick up a new Toyota/Denso reman'd starter and run that worry-free for the next 200,000+ miles.
 
When you rebuild a starter you need to make sure that the contacts are parallel to the face of the plunger otherwise the plunger may not make full contact with the contacts and you may still have issues with the starter.
 
Its very possible that the contacts aren't flush. It seems odd that it would work so well on the tester at the parts store. I'll also mention that the rebuild kits from the parts stores do not include a plunger, just the two contacts and the associated hardware.

I've got a reman starter on the way, but I'll check the contacts one more time.
 
I went ahead and swapped out the starter and it started right up. My rebuild kit (Dorman) didnt come with a plunger. That, combined with potential for not installing the contacts perfectly flush could have been the problem. Good news is, it starts, runs and now has an AC system that works.

Lesson learned - just because it works on the bench and at the auto parts store doesn't mean it will work on the truck.
 
I went ahead and swapped out the starter and it started right up. My rebuild kit (Dorman) didnt come with a plunger. That, combined with potential for not installing the contacts perfectly flush could have been the problem. Good news is, it starts, runs and now has an AC system that works.

Lesson learned - just because it works on the bench and at the auto parts store doesn't mean it will work on the truck.
I think the takeaway from this should be to use OEM parts from a trustworthy source. Starter rebuild kits from Toyota are pretty inexpensive.

A word of caution regarding the remanufactured starters from Toyota: They are being rebuilt locally in the US and it's a crapshoot as to what you get, even in a red Toyota parts box. I had 2 that were bad out of the box and I needed to rebuild them to get them to work properly. Both units had contacts that were not flush and the plunger was never replaced on 1. Both plunger bores were filthy with old grease and dirt.
 

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