Another panhard question

[EDPA]

Felt like I had to start a new thread to get some help on this dilemma. I read through the thread Shocker directed me to but could not find the info I'm looking for. I have two questions.

1. Can anybody tell me exactly how much you can expect the rear axle to shift to the right with a 2.5 OME lift on? Has anyone with a 2.5" lift measured the space difference between the frame rails and the inside of the tires? If so what numbers are you getting? If you lift your truck 2-2.5 inches then does it make sense that the axel will be shift over to the right approximately an inch or so or am I over simplifying this? (I really need this info before I pursue this post-collision repair inspection discovery any further, as I'm beginning to suspect my trucks always been that way as C-dan has suggested. I just need some confirmation or comparison figures)

2. It's never mentioned, but ideally would it be worth it to get the adjustable panhard from Christo to move the axle back in line even with the 2.5" lift to try to bring everything back in line?

 

[Junk]

It's never mentioned, but ideally would it be worth it to get the adjustable panhard from Christo to move the axle back in line even with the 2.5" lift to try to bring everything back in line?

Well, it’s never really brought up because most consider immaterial until you get to at least the Jspring lift.

I know every truck is different and what works for one may not work for others. From what I can remember (and this may be WAY OFF) I think I adjusted the panhards (which I got from Christo) by about ¾” for the Jspring + 20mm packer lift I have on all 4 corners

 

[NorCalDoug]

I haven't picked up the adjustable panhard for mine (OME heavies, non-J). I really didn't notice much of a difference. I know the axle is off a bit, but I don't think it's enough to make a difference.

That said, another member here, Cruiserdrew, recently went with the caster plates (from Slee) and set himself up with an adjustable panhard and commented that he feels a difference (an improvement).

I think if you plan on going higher, pick it up. If you plan on staying where you are, you could probably live without it and be happy.

 

[CruisinGA]

J springs +1 " and caster plates up front here.

Stock panhard.

Feels great to me. Not to say there is no improvement, I wouldn't know.

I also have a high tolerance for minor inadequacies.

 

[hoser]

I just went out and measured. I have a 2.5" OME lift. The passenger side comes out about 1" more than the driver's side with no extra load in the trunk nor 3rd row seats.

 

[EDPA]

Hoser, you da man. Thanks a lot for taking the time to do the measurement. I don't know anyone with a 2.5 lift to compare to. I feel a lot better since that is consitant with what I have. So once again, Thanks.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

A longer or adjustable front pan hard will increase the droop of the front end alone with centering the axle. You wont notice it when driving as much as you will wheeling.

 

[OGBeno]

Sorry to dredge this up folks, but I do indeed love the search function of the MUD--all the things that people have talked about in the past.

Anyway, I have my truck on a level surface in my garage as I am wrenching. I decided to measure the lift in the rear--the USPS is 1.5" lower than the USDS. The truck actually looked crooked.

Now I found this tread.

My assumption (and basically I am posting this to get the correct answer) is that to bring the rig back to level--horizontally on a flat/level surface--I'd have to adjust the length of both the front and the rear panhards.

So, this is where Slee's weld-in panhard rods come into play...got it.

My only concern is that this is on a regular 2.5" OME Heavy lift. Why is the rig so crooked when it seems panhards only come into play when lifting with J's or greater?

Thanks in advance for any answers...

Edit: man, I thought lifting the truck would be simple...


Best.
-onur
Akron, OH

 

[Kalawang]

With adjustable panhards, some degree of leveling between the DS and Ps can be done, but the primary function would really be to center the body to the wheels. I've only been able to level mine to within a 1/4 inch, but centering the body was easy.

If leveling is your only problem, why not just install the needed ring spacer ? It's easy and a lot cheaper than adjustable panhards.


Kalawang

 

[OGBeno]

Thanks for the reply Kalawang...

Is adding a few spacers a good corrective measure as opposed to doing the adjustable panhards?

I'd rather do it correctly rather than put uneeded strain on the drivetrain...I'd rather put out the effort now rather than deal with a really large bill because of strain in the axles.

Thanks.
-onur
Akron, OH

 

[Kalawang]

I'm not aware of strain issues to any part of the LC. The LC lean is common to my part of the world and the spacers are what we use when the owner can't stand it. I feel poly spacers or metal would have a better long term service, and would not even begin to consider rubber or anything soft. I used Dakar steel spacers before I lifted my LC back up to a 4" lift and never felt a problem or heard a noise from them. Spacers are reasonably cheap though labor is costly. However it's an easy DIY for a Sunday afternoon.

In my case, as I already had adjustable panhards, we were able to adjust it to a very small difference. When we started, there was a one inch lean, but it's down to a quarter inch or less. I still have my Dakar spacers, but am disinclined to lift higher as my LC is driving very well and I'm not in the mood to experiment.


Kalawang

 

[OGBeno]

Thanks again Kalawang...

Just ordered the front and rear weld-in's from Slee. Also had them throw in 2 10MMOME packers to straighten things out once the panhards have been modified and reinstalled.

always more $$$$$....

Best.
-onur
Akron, OH