Another CDL ISSUE

[dean58]

i have an Australian 105 series landcruiser with the 1fz-fe engine and constant 4wd.
My issue is that after removing the auto and transfer case to fix a rear main seal, I now have issues engaging the Cdl. It works when it is cold. It will go in alright but is then difficult to remove. 10-15mins doing figure 8 and reverse and forward. But when I have been driving for a bit it is impossible to get it to engage. Before the work it went in perfect every time and popped out by putting it in reverse going back 2 mentor then driving forward. I did change the oil but have used the exact grade hat Toyota recommends. I have also checked for wiring connectors that are loose but hey all appear fine.
Thanks I the help hopefully someone can help out.
Ps I have searched but can't find my particular problem.

 

[lrowe_csp]

Dean:
Since that drive train is more like the 80 series than than the 100 series, you may want to post this on the 80 forum as well. There are people there pulling their trans to replace the rear main seal all of the time and someone may have the same issue you just described. HTH

 

[dean58]

Thank for the advice i will try it

 

[dean58]

No luck there, didn't get one reply. Went under and lowered down the transmission cross member. I found what appears to be a breather line snapped at the input elbow. It goes into a plastic piece along with an electrical connector. Mainly thinking out loud here but is there any chance that that is a vacuum line and thats the reason it's not working??? Really struggling now as I can't see a reason why it stopped working suddenly, the only other thing is maybe the oil is not letting it engage. I have used h specified grade but not genuine I went for the valvoline fully synthetic.

Thanks for any ideas people have

 

[spressomon]

Assuming you have a HF2A t-case you will have 3 electrical connectors and a breather hose vent. The electrical connectors/switches: CDL (located on the front extension housing); Low Range Transfer Indicator/Switch (located on the rear extension housing, right side about 1:00PM when looking at the rear extension housing from the rear) and a Transfer Indicator Switch/Neutral Switch (located to the left of the above Low Range Switch described above).

Assuming you have signal at the male harness end of the CDL switch I would assume your CDL switch is bad...but, apparently, since your problems started after you replaced the seal its more than likely the two are related; however having said that replacing the seal doesn't involve anything especially challenging...other than being sure to get the adjusting shims back in place...

Also FWIW: http://www.taskled.com/george4wd/cdl.html

And another: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/113268-replacing-rear-transfer-case-output-seal-2.html

 

[dean58]

I'll have to pull out the switches and check they working. Think that's the next step. I also may have not made it clear but I didn't even open up the t/fer case. It was the engine rear main that I replaced which is why it has me stumped as nothing more was done to the tranny than unplug the switches and drain and refill it. Cheers for your help I'll pull the switches and see what happens. But since it does go in when it's cold but won't disengage does that suggest that it's more than likely mechanical than electrical or do the switches control it going out too? Thanks again

 

[Skidoo]

Here's a long shot. Dirty contacts in connectors, get some electrical contact cleaner and pull them apart and clean them. Flaky contacts can have bizarre symptoms.

 

[dean58]

Cheers for all your help guys on the advice I went through nd disconnected AT&T the electronics one by one cleaning all the plugs. When I got to the one at 12o'clock on the rear housing I noticed it was a lot stiffer than the others on investigation after using a can on electronic cleaner it turs out the plug had broken somewhere along the line inside and the female "pin/socket" had got pushed into the plastic case. After trying to fix ended up getting a n new plug off Toyota, cut the old one off the loom and soldered the new one on. Working like a dream now.
After this I looked more carefully at the rest on the plugs and noticed that many are starting to get brittle and crack so I might have to go through and change them all soon. Thanks for the advice all. Turns out electronics were to blame.