another brake thread (1 Viewer)

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orangefarmer

SILVER Star
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Jan 17, 2020
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10
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71
Location
Ivanhoe, CA
Happy Sunday.

I went to move y rig yesterday after sitting for a while. Didn't want to move. Almost like the parking brake was still on. I made sure it wasn't, so I gave it some beans. then a LOUD POP. I thought that i had broken an axle. Went to put it in the car port and there was a squeak like a warped rotor. I didn't see anything obvious, so I jacked it up and spun the rear wheels. The driver side had a clunk/rubbing sound. Took the tire and rotor off. Spin again and nothing. The rotor was rusty, and all I can make out it that the parking brake and/or rear pads were stuck. Now I'm trying to decide what to do. I usually buy OEM parts, but I can get the Powerstop Z36 kit for the same as OEM rotor and pads. Also, the pads look fine. I'm thinking about hitting them with some 80 grit and putting them back on with a new rotor. My rotors are rusty, and usually I don't turn them because of the reduced mass hurting performance. I was looking for a higher performance rear pad, and all I found is the Powerstop. I wouldn't mind running the Hawk LTS pads, if someone has a part number for the rear.

So, I guess I have three options.
1. Get new rotors, and run the original pads
2. Get new rotors, and pads (OEM)
3. Get new rotors and pads (Powerstop)

Pics of the rotor rust. Both are after using a flappy disk to clean them off. Thanks in advance for the advice

rotor 2.jpg


rotor 1.jpg
 
Happy Sunday.

I went to move y rig yesterday after sitting for a while. Didn't want to move. Almost like the parking brake was still on. I made sure it wasn't, so I gave it some beans. then a LOUD POP. I thought that i had broken an axle. Went to put it in the car port and there was a squeak like a warped rotor. I didn't see anything obvious, so I jacked it up and spun the rear wheels. The driver side had a clunk/rubbing sound. Took the tire and rotor off. Spin again and nothing. The rotor was rusty, and all I can make out it that the parking brake and/or rear pads were stuck. Now I'm trying to decide what to do. I usually buy OEM parts, but I can get the Powerstop Z36 kit for the same as OEM rotor and pads. Also, the pads look fine. I'm thinking about hitting them with some 80 grit and putting them back on with a new rotor. My rotors are rusty, and usually I don't turn them because of the reduced mass hurting performance. I was looking for a higher performance rear pad, and all I found is the Powerstop. I wouldn't mind running the Hawk LTS pads, if someone has a part number for the rear.

So, I guess I have three options.
1. Get new rotors, and run the original pads
2. Get new rotors, and pads (OEM)
3. Get new rotors and pads (Powerstop)

Pics of the rotor rust. Both are after using a flappy disk to clean them off. Thanks in advance for the advice

View attachment 3240363

View attachment 3240364
Get new pads and rotors.

I run the powerstop and have decent luck with them.. HOWEVER, as little as you drive it (apparently) you want to use Toyota Rotors because they are NOT drilled and slotted. The Powerstop are D&S and the holes and slots will pick up dirt, mud, rocks, and crap that will chew off your pads.

Those are some nasty looking rotors you have there. I'll bet they won't be in spec if you did try to turn them.
 
Get new pads and rotors.

I run the powerstop and have decent luck with them.. HOWEVER, as little as you drive it (apparently) you want to use Toyota Rotors because they are NOT drilled and slotted. The Powerstop are D&S and the holes and slots will pick up dirt, mud, rocks, and crap that will chew off your pads.

Those are some nasty looking rotors you have there. I'll bet they won't be in spec if you did try to turn them.
Yeah, its mostly a weekend warrior. This particular problem arose from me not washing my rig after a trip to the desert in November. There is actually quite a bit of rust under it just from those 3 days. I appreciate your take on the Powerstop kit. I will probably get OEM rotors. I'm gonna keep looking for more aggressive pads. Thanks for the advice.
 
Yeah, its mostly a weekend warrior. This particular problem arose from me not washing my rig after a trip to the desert in November. There is actually quite a bit of rust under it just from those 3 days. I appreciate your take on the Powerstop kit. I will probably get OEM rotors. I'm gonna keep looking for more aggressive pads. Thanks for the advice.
Powerstop has a top of the line pad (I forget the name of it)

I get mine through Summit Racing, as no freight over $100 order.
 
Powerstop has a top of the line pad (I forget the name of it)

I get mine through Summit Racing, as no freight over $100 order.
They have the Z36 Extreme pads. I'm also looking at the Hawk LTS pads.
 
I personally use Akebono pads on both my vehicles. Great pads, available on rockauto for decent price. Highly recommend them.
 
I personally use Akebono pads on both my vehicles. Great pads, available on rockauto for decent price. Highly recommend them.
Good to know. Thank you
 
I'd take a close look at the sliding pins. Mine stick all the time, and it's a major cause of outer brake pad wear.

I second the advice to use OEM pads. I have had no luck with aftermarket rear pads fitting in the calipers. I usually buy front and rears together, so it makes no sense for me to go to two different suppliers, when the cost benefit isn't there. I've never had a pad related problem, as long as I've been replacing the front pads with OEM pads.
 
I'd take a close look at the sliding pins. Mine stick all the time, and it's a major cause of outer brake pad wear.

I second the advice to use OEM pads. I have had no luck with aftermarket rear pads fitting in the calipers. I usually buy front and rears together, so it makes no sense for me to go to two different suppliers, when the cost benefit isn't there. I've never had a pad related problem, as long as I've been replacing the front pads with OEM pads.
Thanks for the advice
 
Thanks for the advice
Be sure to compare the innner/outer pad thickness. The outer pad is the one that will stick and wear more quickly, if the pins aren't letting caliper slide.
 
Be sure to compare the innner/outer pad thickness. The outer pad is the one that will stick and wear more quickly, if the pins aren't letting caliper slide.
The pads seem evenly worn. This is a new issue, I'm guessing to be not hosing stuff down after my last trip out to the desert. But, I will make sure to grease the pins well when it all goes back together.
 
Be sure to compare the innner/outer pad thickness. The outer pad is the one that will stick and wear more quickly, if the pins aren't letting caliper slide.
@Malleus thank you for mentioning this (and stressing it a second time). While getting the tires changed on my '95, the shop noticed a severe difference in pad thickness. They told me that they suspected a seized caliper and quoted me $1200 (CAD) to replace the front calipers, rotors, and pads. I started doing some research into how hard it would be to do the job myself and came across your advice. I pulled the tire off and took a closer look. It was the outer pad that was significantly worn, and when I tried to pull out the pins I had to use vice grips. The anti-squeal shim was misshapen and was a binding on the pin. One of the pins looked like it had a slight bend in it as well. I'm going to replace the pins and brake pads myself (the rotors appear to still be within FSM specs) and see how they wear. If that's all the problem was, it will be a fraction of the quoted repair cost. 🤞 Thanks again for the suggestion.
 
I use the power stop stuff and have no problem with the D-S rotors it’s a trail rig and get used 6-12 times a year.
No issues with mud or rocks getting stuck.
I did notice a improvement in stopping when I switched to them.
I recommend the power stops and have other buddy that run and like them.
For what it worth I normally only run OEM parts but was looking for a brake upgrade as I run 39s😉 they have been on there two seasons.
 

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