I was confused by all this when I did my swap too...maybe these visuals will help.
first - the a440 + t-case is like a mile long...so the distance between the 2 flanges is distance X
the H42 & H55 are much shorter gearboxes - so once the gearbox is assembled with the t-case attached and bolted up to the bell housing at the back of the block - the distance between those 2 flanges ends up greater after the swap since everything shifted forward by X.
Hence the rear drive line out of your rig is no longer able to reach. a drive line shop will make you a new one by retubing it...or you find one out of an FJ60 and you reuse it.
Since everything shifted forward by X - the old drive shaft that you pulled off the front of your truck is now too long...so it needs to be shorter. this one is a little easier in that a shop can just cut it - reweld it and balance it.
the rear needs to be longer so I think they reuse your flange hardware and simply retube it...so there's some material cost involved.
hopefully this clears up the difference between H41 / H55:
H42 without the 5th gear spacer block shown here with the t-case bolted right to the back of the 4 speed gear box.
later H42 with 5th gear spacer. still might have been a 4 speed gear box - but with this spacer. (someone else correct me here if i'm wrong...i have no idea why they'd make a 4speed with the 5th gear spacer attached - but still build it as a 4 speed??)
but at any rate... some of the later year H42's had this 5th gear spacer block.
a few things dictate the next bit of info/advice if you're doing your own swap
do you have access to a lift - or is the truck jacked up on jack stands?
regardless - the point is...once you have your new gearbox bolted in and secured...assuming the truck is sitting on jack stands at all 4 corners...the suspension is totally relaxed so your axles are at their lowest point.
take flange to flange measurements for front and back while in this relaxed position.
then - put your wheels on (assuming the wheels are off for the project) drop the truck down on the ground to put weight on the springs and compress the suspension...then take another set of flange to flange measurements front and back.
write down both and give them to your drive line shop when you ask them to make you new ones.
both the drive shafts have a slip yoke like this:
that gives the drive line the ability to compensate for suspension travel front to back.
if the drive line shop makes them too long and there's not enough room for travel - then under certain conditions they could bottom out and stuff could break badly.
these were my measurements:
flange to flange distance with truck sitting on jack stands and the suspension relaxed
42.5" rear
26 3/8" front.
flange to flange distance with wheels on - truck sitting level and suspension loaded
42.5" rear
26 3/4" front.
(i'm a little surprised/confused by the fact that my rear measurement didnt change. i didnt trust it so i did it twice...
don't assume my measurements will work for you...get your transmission & transfer case bolted in then take measurements. or if you're lucky you have drive shafts out of an FJ60 with 5 speed spacer - and they just bolt right in.
i'm in portland - a shop made these for me.
Black O2 wires are the heater power - non-denominational. Thanks for documenting this. Mine will happen this fall.
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