Thanks Pin Head. I didn't think it was used. So I'll try to see this differential w/Aussie locker gets assembled w/o it and within tolerances.
Gringo Bob
Another Aussie Locker Install 1993 FZJ80 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter spdwaver
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Gringo Bob
I have had a Lokka/Aussie locker in my 1994 for nearly 4 years and 40,000 miles without a single issue. It is the best $250-$300 I have spent on my truck. It's so good I feel like I'm cheating on the trails. Would highly recommend getting a center diff lock switch and doing the pin 7 mod if you get the Aussie locker.
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I will report what happens when the conversion is completed.
...And Thanks guys and gals !
GringoBob'
jess50 - I installed a center diff lock switch ..the cd clutch was burned out/seized and the former owner installed front locking hubs to beat the problem ...and I went to a center diff lock switch and removed the cd clutch (and restored full time AWD) ..an amazing difference ! And, since I was so happy w/ the full time AWD ...I had reservations about installing a Aussie Locker ...which I believe will make this LC a (bigger) monster !
I will report what happens when the conversion is completed.
...And Thanks guys and gals !
GringoBob'
Hornd
SILVER Star
How did you seal 3rd Back Up?
I just talked to my mechanic, and he says he uses a silicone sealant specific for making gaskets like "Form a Gasket." And, the high-temperature variety is not necessary.
Heya,
So, I know this post is pushing a solid 9 years old now, but I don't know if this question ever got answered for you, but as someone who has ran front/rear lunchbox lockers I thought I could give a more in-depth answer.
The short of it is front/rear lunchbox lockers can absolutely work, the mechanics of the locker don't change depending where it's installed as far as functioning. The problem, and why companies discourage their use in all-time AWD vehicles, is purely a safety concern.
Most lunchbox lockers are a marvel of engineering, and are designed to have an exact, predictable 'tipping point' where they no longer allow the 'ratchet' effect that allows them to slip. If you're doing a slow turn in a parking lot, listening to the (rear) locker ratchet, then goose the throttle and get the tires chirping, you can figure out where the tipping point is with your combination. The application of power to the locker is what causes the friction of the teeth, combined with the weight of the springs, to keep them from separating. In a rear locker, this is fine, because the wheels are predictable in what they do, which is normally to cause an oversteer to occur if they suddenly lock.
The problem with front lunchbox lockers only really comes into play with all-time AWD vehicles, because the locking 'effect' only happens when power is applied to the locker. A selectable 4WD vehicle without freewheeling hubs might experience some inconvenience with the front locker popping, ratcheting, and generally being annoying because their entire axle assembly is still rotating, but since there is no power being applied, the locker can't produce enough friction to lock. In an AWD vehicle, there is power being applied to the front locker, which does allow it to lock under certain circumstances, and this adds a level of unpredictability to driving that can be dangerous as hell.
An example that's happened to me a few times ('92 Toyota Surf 2.4L Turbo Diesel), say I'm making a right hand turn on dubious roads, with mixed traction, and both front wheels are slipping unevenly.
If I suddenly gain traction on my left front wheel, and my right wheel locks to that speed, I'm going to lose traction to the right side, and can cause snap oversteer.
v
/---/ < If I suddenly gain traction on my right wheel, and my left wheel locks to that speed, I lose traction on my left, l and now have massive understeer.
l----l
The thing is, you can never be certain of which wheel will lock in the front under every circumstance. In the rear, if you're turning right you know the right-rear is the one that will slip, visa versa for left turns. In the front, you can never know which wheel is about to lock up, and therefore what steering condition you're going to have to correct from. In our 80s, the best way around this is to slap in the selectable 2WD conversion for the center diff, which keeps the front axle from getting power, preventing lockup, and to install freewheeling hubs, to prevent the axle from rotating in normal driving, which means you don't have to listen to the locker ratcheting all the time.
You are repeating a common misunderstanding of how auto “lockers” operate. Power is only a factor when you apply enough of it to cause the driven wheel to slip. The way they actually work is that the two sides “lock” and ratchet independently according to the rule that one only wheel can turn faster than the ring gear (in the forward driven direction), but neither wheel can turn slower than the ring gear. When one wheel slips, then both wheels will turn at the speed of the ring gear.
You are correct that the reason that manufacturers advise you not to install one in the front of an AWD vehicle is safety, and therefore liability (in the US). Handling is tricky enough with one autolocker on ice and two would make the excitement exponential. On an off road only vehicle it would work fine in my opinion.
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