AmsOil (1 Viewer)

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On Monday I decided to pull the trigger and go synthetic in the F/R Diffs, TC and Power steering..
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I used Amsoil fluids in my old 7.3 Powerstroke truck, and again in the t-case and NV3550 in my TJ. Both times I was immediately surprised at the palpable difference in feel. Transmissions shifted smoother, gear grinds went away, actuations became smoother. I'm sure the same could be said with other top notch lubricants like Royal Purple, RedLine, etc. but I'm a believer in sticking with something that works.

Really great stuff. There was a rep on Jeepforum that got great prices too. Used to ship it to my local distributor for me to pick up. I'll def. be using Amsoil when I change my trans and diff fluids.

-MK
 
Thanks MK. My brother works for a Lexus dealer and I am going to try and get them to give me break on the transfluid swap, otherwise going to doing it myself.. thats phase II
 
If you end up doing the engine, make sure you get a can of flush or you will changing your oil sooner. This is because the synthetics do a better job of keeping things clean.
 
If you end up doing the engine, make sure you get a can of flush or you will changing your oil sooner. This is because the synthetics do a better job of keeping things clean.

Thanks Wardriv, good to know
 
This weekend was a bust, had to do some PM on the :princess: Lexus.

In prep for the engine going synthetic, I went with Castrol Synthec and will transition to Amsoil after 2-3K miles inclliding their oil filter

I am doing rear diff this week and based on many threads may go conventional in the front diff.

:cheers:
 
This weekend was a bust, had to do some PM on the :princess: Lexus.

In prep for the engine going synthetic, I went with Castrol Synthec and will transition to Amsoil after 2-3K miles inclliding their oil filter

I am doing rear diff this week and based on many threads may go conventional in the front diff.

:cheers:

Whats the concern here with the front diff, that the gear lube gets into the Birfs?
 
Not sure it has to do with gear oil migrating past the oil seal. I run synthetic in the pumpkins and don't have problems. It has more to do with how much you wheel and under what conditions. If I was doing a lot of wheeling with water crossings or mud I would be more apt to do frequent changes. Using synthetic makes it much more costly in this scenario and unneeded. I would still use synthetic every where else.

Buck
 
Not sure it has to do with gear oil migrating past the oil seal. I run synthetic in the pumpkins and don't have problems. It has more to do with how much you wheel and under what conditions. If I was doing a lot of wheeling with water crossings or mud I would be more apt to do frequent changes. Using synthetic makes it much more costly in this scenario and unneeded. I would still use synthetic every where else.

Buck

Thanks Buck
 
Whats the concern here with the front diff, that the gear lube gets into the Birfs?

Yes and No. Yes gear lube does get into the knuckles, but really the reasoning is that the knuckle grease slowly gets past the seals and into the diff lube contaminating and thickening the oil. This is the reason for dark black or green gear lube (depending on the knuckle grease) when drained.

Tools R Us recommends more frequent drain/fills for the front diff with a cheaper conventional diff lube. I agree. And by frequent he means every other engine oil change...
 
Yes and No. Yes gear lube does get into the knuckles, but really the reasoning is that the knuckle grease slowly gets past the seals and into the diff lube contaminating and thickening the oil. This is the reason for dark black or green gear lube (depending on the knuckle grease) when drained.

Tools R Us recommends more frequent drain/fills for the front diff with a cheaper conventional diff lube. I agree. And by frequent he means every other engine oil change...

Thanks for the info, Intersting. I guess once I drain the front I will see. Every other oil change seems a lot to me?? Was that a constanly wheeled rig?
 
Yep, it is normal for some grease to migrate into the gear oil, I prefer the cheap stuff in the axles. IMHO, it is easy to change and new clean dyno oil beats contaminated, thickened, boutique oil.

I do run syn in the transfer, it has a relatively small capacity. On the trans, I do the drain the pan plug and refill every oil change thing, using regular dyno.
 
Fianlly got to the rear diff today. After a short drive I decided to pull the rear plugs. The upper was rusted pretty bad, so after beating on a Impact socket, I was able to pull it. To my surprise, it was under pressure, sprayed out a little oil

Could this be a sign of a stuck breather valve?
 
O yea, and if your pinion or axle seals are leaking I'd fix the breather and see how it goes.
 

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