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O yea, and if your pinion or axle seals are leaking I'd fix the breather and see how it goes.

No leak from axle or pinion.. Thanks
 
Fianlly got to the rear diff today. After a short drive I decided to pull the rear plugs. The upper was rusted pretty bad, so after beating on a Impact socket, I was able to pull it. To my surprise, it was under pressure, sprayed out a little oil

Could this be a sign of a stuck breather valve?
Did it actually "spray" out or just run out? Good possibility that it was just over filled, especially if pinion and axle seals are not leaking. But, I'd check and test your breather, anyway.

I commend your choice for running the Amsoil synthetic gear oil and ATF. One of my first mods 12 years ago was to replace all fluids and lube with Amsoil synthetic, except for the birfs and tranny. I eventually dropped the tranny pan and refilled with Amsoil synthetic ATF about a year ago.

If you're going to convert engine to Amsoil synthetic, in addition to the engine flush, I recommend installing the dual bypass filter housing assy. It can be mounted in a more accessible location than the existing oil filter. It gives you both a full flow and bypass filter for superior filtering and successful long drain intervals. The use of a regular oil evaluation program, such as Blackstone or Amsoil, would allow you to accurately monitor your oil condition. The original Amsoil benefits were both superior lubrication and extended drain intervals. But there's a discipline that must be followed.

Environment must always be considered for practical application. That is why running expensive high quality gear lube in axles that frequently get immersed and need lube replacement is not economically practical, for example. Racing applications with corporate sponsors is a different world. They're more interested in results and reputation.
 
Did it actually "spray" out or just run out? Good possibility that it was just over filled, especially if pinion and axle seals are not leaking. But, I'd check and test your breather, anyway.

There was a small spray, then is started to flow out. It is very possible that since iI had just driven the truck, there was some pressure build up. Darined out about 3.5 quarts put back 3 quarts before it started to drain out.

Thanks
Stu
 
Check the diff breather, the diff shouldn't be pressurized.
 
80t0ylc, do you have a bypass filter installed? I would like to see some pics

Thanks
stu
 
I had overfilled my front diff after the axle rebuild and my front breather was all gummed up. Extended the breather up to the firewall by the brake booster and also drained my diff to the just below the hole plug mark and its been good ever since and my oil is still good and hardly contaminated.

Didn't check the thread and realize you were talking about the rear diff.. though you never know it could be a breather problem though I doubt it.
 
Transfer Case & Transmission

Quick update on my Amsoil project

Drained and filled the Transfer Case.. only down side was I broke all 3 bolts for skip plate. I recommend alot of PB buster and heat if you are goingto do this drain and fill. Maybe its in my head, but shifting feel easier now (H-N-L)

Is it time to get a IPOR skid plate? :idea:

4 Gallons (16 Qrts) of Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATFQT) arrived on monday. I will take it to the Ford dealer(BM Machine) that my brother works at the get it done.
http://www.amsoil.com/catalog.aspx?code=ATFQT-EA
 
80t0ylc, do you have a bypass filter installed? I would like to see some pics

Thanks
stu

Stu, I'm adding some pics and a link for reference in your thread for you and others interested. You've already seen these, but others might be interested.

Where my filter housing is located:

HPIM0794.jpg


With protective cover removed for detail. This cover, which is made from a mudflap was cut to size and added:
HPIM0796.jpg


A more direct shot for details:
HPIM0797.jpg


Here is a Photobucket link for more pics. Originally, I had the filter housing located (horizontally) under the U.S. driver's side floor. Installation of my sliders made it necessary to relocate the filters. You can see the original location in some of the pics. In my experience with 5 or 6 different vehicles that I've installed this type of filter housing on, there is no functional difference horizontal vs. vertical. I recommend as close as possible to original filter location to keep the hoses as short as possible. Also try to find a protected location, but accessible for changes. If necessary, you can easily make a shield for the filters out of a mudflap or similar material. Mine were held on with wire tie wraps which are cheap and easy to work with.
 
Tom,

Thanks for sharing with everyone...

Stu
 
AMSOIL BK23 Remote & By Pass Filter Install

YesI know its been a while since I posted on this thread.. multiple projects going.

After have this kit sitting in my garage, I decided to pull the trigger on Chad's overbuilt Crossmember/Skid Plate combo - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/543247-97-fzj80-skid-plate-protection.html

Chad's Thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/307322-redneck-enginuitive-belly-pan-finished.html

Aaron worked with me to build this custom filter mount that bolt directly to the Skidplate.

So after some fine tuning I am read to install them this week.
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Mounting the Kit

The fit was excellent...
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Filters

This kit take 2 filter
1. A full flow pn# EaO 26
2. By Pass filter pn# EaBP90

These things are huge
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Any difference with the Amsoil in the trans? I'm currently running 10/30 signature in my engine and long life 75/90 in the transfer case and will be putting it in the rear diff Thursday or Friday.
 
On Monday I decided to pull the trigger and go synthetic in the F/R Diffs, TC and Power steering..

I did Amsoil in my front diff, TC and rear diff 20K ago with no issues. And I just drained my transmission and refilled with Amsoil and it seems to shift much smoother.

I have not done the power steering yet.
 
Any difference with the Amsoil in the trans? I'm currently running 10/30 signature in my engine and long life 75/90 in the transfer case and will be putting it in the rear diff Thursday or Friday.

When I took the truck to them, they had returned the machine..go figure :doh: so it got put to the bottom of the list.

I found a Shop close to my house that I will be going to in the next couple week.. Going the have them do the steering at the same time.
 
I was able to install the my new skidplate and filter mount this weekend. Chad's skidplate was a breeze to install.

The Filter Mount can be installed and removed once the skipplate was in place. This was a good thing since I was unable to plum up everything this weekend. Aaron (welds up Chad's skidplate) designed themount to fit high to the floor board. I will need 2 45 degree fitting from Amsoil to run the lines.

Should I want to add additional protection, the Filter mont is lined up to the captured nut that are in the frame on the driverside near the fuel tank. I can add a flat plate to cover the bottom.
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IMO on the Amsoil engine flush...I would not use it. This usually clears deposits that are acutally not bad for your old worn motor. I have used it before and one car had a rod knock after on a good motor. IDK. I just stay away from them. And BTW I have been a firm believer in amsoil since I first started riding mototcross and found there 100:1 2 stroke oil. Have never turned back since. I use it on all the vehicles that I really care about and have lower mileage. On the old cruise 80 I use all
non synthetic oil so I can change more regularly for less $.
 
Scrowley, I am not planing on using an engine flush. Your comments are spot on.
 
Plumbing up

I go the Oil and 45deg fitting in the mail and started to bolt things up. 1 Oil change a year.. cant wait :cheers:
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