Having to 'lock' it twice to get it to lock is not how it should be. I suspect it's still a bit sticky. I wouldn't use WD40 in a lock. It will dry and leave residue. I'd use a sh*tton of dry graphite lock lube instead.
Ambulance Door Lock Behavior Question
- Thread starter RWBeringer4x4
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Seriously, Eddy, a sh*tton? It's just an itty bitty lock!
- Thread starter
- #23
As a scientist - The sh*tton is a unique unit of measure that is scalable to the application. I get what @Fast Eddy is saying. The WD/Penatrating oil was to get the lock moving at all - originally I couldn't even insert the key...
It's a little strange - my lock functions exactly opposite of the manual instructions @wscbill mentioned. The key still goes in "teeth up" but counterclockwise unlocks, clockwise locks.
I agree that the lock is sticky. The behavior described previously is the issue. Sometimes the lock doesn't "release" and the cam carries the locking mechanism back with it when you turn the key again, instead of releasing it in the locked position. Some downward pressure from the door handle onto the mechanism holds it in place.
It's a little strange - my lock functions exactly opposite of the manual instructions @wscbill mentioned. The key still goes in "teeth up" but counterclockwise unlocks, clockwise locks.
I agree that the lock is sticky. The behavior described previously is the issue. Sometimes the lock doesn't "release" and the cam carries the locking mechanism back with it when you turn the key again, instead of releasing it in the locked position. Some downward pressure from the door handle onto the mechanism holds it in place.
My '71 FJ40 is at my place in Nevada, so I can't check this out. Maybe someone else can shed some light. I'm almost positive that the '71's passenger door handle and lock mechanism is the same as on my '76 FJ40's ambulance door, but can't remember details about the drivers door on the '71. It seems like it would be a mirror image (top to bottom) of the passenger door. If so, could it be that in this case the ambulance door mechanism may actually have replaced sometime in the past with an earlier FJ40 drivers door mechanism? That would explain why the lock functions opposite to what's expected?
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- #27
Guess i should add graphite to the list of crap I still need to purchase
Ok brand new cylinder just installed, when I lock the door I cannot remove the key in that position or any other position unless I turn it all the way to unlock it and then of course it is unlocked. So can turn to lock it but cannot remove key with mechanism locked. Even weirder than what you guys have experienced..................... SO, is it possible Toyota has sent me a new defective lock cylinder?? Help. Incidentally it behaves this way whether it is installed in door or not...........
Anyone? Sure would be nice to be able to lock her up that was one of my prime reasons for putting on the hardtop...........
I cant seem to lock her up manually from the inside, could the lock mechanism on the inside, not the cylinder be the problem?
Your lock is installed 180 out. You can insert the lock into the door but the relationship between the key position and the square drive that engages the inner handle is what is messing you up. I saw earlier you asked if there is supposed to be a little lever for lock/unlock and the answer is yes. I made mine from a piece of hard wood as the "new" paddle handle lever broke shortly after installation, little piece of plastic.
Over here Inside door handles there is some discussion regarding these paddle handles that may be of interest to you.
Ok so I tried another lock/handle mechanism off my brothers '76 and same problem, now the key wont even go in the new cylinder. I dont see how or why I would try to slide the cylinder in 180 degrees out, after all there is a slot at the bottom of the opening on the door skin. And the little cover over the key hole would be upside down as well. @cuencanolenny I am not quite getting what you are saying? I do think it is possible I could have a bad cylinder???????????? Help
Please explain the 180 degree out. The big issue is I could insert key with teeth down turn 180 degrees and it locks the mechanism but then I cannot remove the key unless I turn it back all the way to open lock again and then she will come out but nowhere in between.
The teeth go up and the cover rotates to the right to allow access for the key. The cylinder just turns around and around as I recall but will only install in one of two positions. Like you, I could get the thing to lock but then couldn't remove the key. So I found that I had to rotate the mechanism 180 to get it to work right.
Lock and Key This picture from Cool Cruisers shows the "correct" orientation of the lock cylinder.
Got it. My new cylinder moves between 9pm and 3pm. Returns to 12 o'clock and key is removable in that position. My first cylinder would not move freely like this unit. Toyota replaced it. Nice having a locking rear door
Went fishing in my sons new to him 86 bj70. Left my wallet n phone in his glove box and we locked the doors. Returned 3 hours later to discover all doors unlocked. Wtf? Then I remembered you had to lift the handles when closing the doors. He had never heard of such a thing. Fortunately all our stuff was there. I bet none of his 20 something pals know how to lock the doors lol. Will be installing pwr wnds and locks from a donor prada.