Am I missing something? (Snorkel mod question)

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Okay, so we have a Weber 32-36 Carb.
IMG_4813.jpg

IMG_4814.jpg


I also have the snorkel adapter kit form Weber. How and where do I include a/the filter into the system line?
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Everything I've read about this says to use the stock round cleaner housing and waterproof it.... when I bought the FJ, it didn't have a stock round cleaner housing, it had a Holley Carb with another rectangle open cleaner.

I thought about getting an ammo can and dropping in a filter that would fit tightly to make a waterproof filter box, but am I just missing something here.... is adding a snorkel suppose to be this hard?

is there another piece I need to buy, or is adding/mounting a WP filter box a custom mod for adding a snorkel?

Other than those who will say, "you don't need a snorkel", does anyone have some helpful advice or a direction I should look in order to complete this mod?
 
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Well it looks like I'm going to try and use a 50 cal. ammo can.
IMG_4819.jpg


I found a K&N filter that will fit into the can just perfect. I'm going to cut two 3" holes into the can and then weld in two short pieces of 3" tube to have something to attach the hoses to, as well as the filter.

This will waterproof the filter, and based off the few measurements I took, I'll be able to design and cut a bracket to mount it on the inside drivers fender with more than enough room to run the tubing and hoses.
IMG_4818.jpg


Now I just need to design a piece of tube to come from out of the engine and up the windshield.

Any idea if the above filter would be a good one to use, I mean is it large enough for a 2F engine and a daily driver?
 
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Step 2..read the banner if no one know what's on your picture above,then read step 3
Step 3.."The devil made me do it the first time. The second time I done it on my own.

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jjjaja sorry but i can't resist...well how about try to get an F engine carb filter..your idea its not bad and the cammo box it's seal real good,also how you aren't using the fj40,if someone can made an aluminum rectangular box and you placed on the fender will look killer IMO
 
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Cruisers had "F" engines. Not "1F" or F1".... F1 is an indy car designation. ;) Until the 2F came out, there was no reason to add a "1" to the "F" designator. And after the 2F came out, the F was no longer produced, so there was again not need to add a "1" to the nomenclature.

The OEM F engine air filter would be a simple approach. You ammo can is a really good idea too, and we may copy that for a rig we are trying to get snorkeled asap.

Mark...
 
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Well here is what I was thinking..

AirBox.jpg

The tubing on the end would be in from the snorkel, it would stick into the can 1-3/4", wire welded on the outside to waterproof. The tub on the side would be welded the same, but flush to the inside of the can, (as the filter just fits in there).

The filter used in this design is a K&N RX-2820, although I'm not sure if it is the best size or if it will work just fine, I know it's bigger than the one that Weber set with my carb, so I'm assuming it will work just fine.

Okay, I was just reminded by a guy at work that the flow needs to be reversed, so that the outside air hits the "outisde" of the filter, so I'll move the design around and re-post a pic
 
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Ammo can idea is a keeper- maybe even a stealer. What about just putting the filter can on the top of the snorkel stack? Nevermind, just do the ammo can idea. Mount the can on the fender and plumb thru the side??? At that point, can the valve cover vent, and air pump plumbing just be added to the new air filter box and/or intake track? What about the hot air intake valve??? I'm guessing that one would just have to loose it in order to maintain a waterproof intake, right? I think its an acceptable fix- the ammo can, that is...
 
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I was envisioning a flat square filter placed across the inside of the can between the inlet and outlet. If you are going to use this type of filter, why not just mount it to the top of your snorkel?

After looking at an ammo can side by side with a F engine air filter assembly, I think I will probably just mod the top of the F engine unit to acept a strait out configuration of a 3 inch rouhnd duct. Should fit my application a bit better.

I still like the ammo can, but personally I would expect that the restriction to the airflow by the proximity to the walls would negate any gain that might be achieved in filter surface area of the round filter over a flat one.

A side to side air flow with a filter that fits end to end and top to bottom would seem to be ideal. I am off to the parts store n a few minutes. I may look as see if I can find one that is sized right for that.


Definitely like your approach. Not sure it is what I need, but it is clean simple and sturdy.

And YES you do want a drain plug. :)


Mark...
 
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What do you mean add the filter to the top of the snorkel? The posts I've read said that top filters were not any good.... I wish it were easier to get a yes or no on some of these questions, lol

Sometimes there just to many opinions. I am very willing to take suggestions, and if you feel the ammo can will restrict the air flow I could use a larger ammo can, the next size up is a 30mm I believe, or if you recommend a top filter, then which filter and which top housing are you looking at?

(Can you include links/pics please)
 
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Okay, I guess the next question is.... what else is required to happen if one chooses to add a snorkel?

The guys at work that belong to a Jeep club keep telling me to waterproof my harness, my distrib, run tubing from my axels, etc.

Are the rest of you who are running a snorkel system doing all these things? and if so what were your solutions for each?
I have about 80 yrds. of various colors of Gore Tex, could i just wrap a piece of GT around my fuse panel and twist it water tight?

As for the distrib, couldn't I do the same?


**myquestoyota** (what question are you referring to?)

The graphics are created with a 3D modeling software called Autodesk Inventor. I do design work for my day job for a oil company in Houston, so in between rev's, redlines and new projects I get to do my own design work. It helps me get a correct bill of materials and well as lengths and routes before actually cutting any steel or routing any wire, plus I can play with various options to see what works best and hopefully remove a large portion of trial and error
 
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Damn, if I had SolidWorks on this computer I could quickly whip up how I'd modify your basic design which is pretty cool but words will have to do. Instead of a cone filter have you looked into panel filters as mentioned earlier? I would make simple rails that the filter would slide into between the inlet and outlet so that the air flows straight across and passes through the panel filter, should flow a little better considering your spacial constraints. Pretty sure this is similar to what Mark W was saying.
 

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