Am i doing it wrong? ( spray pattern)

[FJsnoozer]

Im not sure if my paint/air mix is off or if it is merely my technique. Or is this normal for a high build ppg mp282 which has afive minute recoat time?

It was a bit breezy.

This was after one coat of epoxy mp170 and 3 coats of mp282. I assume this will be fine after block sanding?

 

[FJsnoozer]

Let me rephrase the question.

Is this mildly dry/ semi streaky look normal for a high build primer?

Will this be fine as i sand it away with 340 grit?

 

[Razorback40]

As long as you have enough primer on, it shouldn't be any problem.

 

[toomanytoyzz]

Is that PPG's waterbourne primer system? If so, I believe you are supposed to have a constant direct air flow when spraying. That's why I would never spray a waterbourne paint system (as long as uerthane still exists that is) in anything but a real-deal paint booth.

Does the areas in question have a rough texture feel to it? If so, it's what you call "smoke" in the primer which is usually caused by having the air pressure up too high. The primer basically bounces off the panel and then settles back down causing that rough texture. It's really common to get on hoods/tailgate or panels you lay flat on something. Also alot more common when using siphon fed guns since the material goes airbourne alot more because of the extra air pressure needed to push the primer out. You can normally block it out, but you will definitely have to re-prime which I'm 99% sure you were going to do anyway. If it's not the case (hard to tell by the pics), you may just have to adjust your spray pattern knob or you are overlapping too much.

All in all though if you are going to block sand the primer do not worry. I'm assuming you are going to use a sealer before paint after you block it? If you performed alot of bodywork on the outside panels I would put a guide coat on before you start blocking. Just go to Home Depot and buy the cheapest can of black paint or primer spraybomb and dust it all over the exterior of the tub. This will let you see the highs and lows as well as the sand scratches during blocking. It's a VERY good tool to get your panels looking good before paint. You have to keep in mind when doing autobody work that if you don't do the proper prep work the best paint in the world will still look like sh!t!!

Her's a pic of an early bronco tailgate I did a TON of body work on and put the guide coat on after the first coat of high build primer.

 

[FJsnoozer]

Thank you for the detailed post.

It is not waterborne.
My pressure was 32psi (I could not push anymore than this)
I was planning on doing a guide coat this weekend and block sanding.
I am going to do a sealer coat with reduced epoxy mp170 per everything I have read and everything the paint shop suggested. Do you have a percentage recommendation for reducer?

I have not felt it, and in hindsight it doesn't look bad. I am glad it seems ok after sanding to you guys as I am extremely happy with the build of this primer and smooth it looks.

 

[toomanytoyzz]

I am a BASF(RM) guy myself, but have used alot of other paint systems in the past. Every epoxy as sealer I've used recommends a 10% reducer which has always worked good for me. What type gun/nozzle are you using?

As for me asking about the waterborne system, I never heard of the PPG primers you were talking about until I searched (thank you google)the #'s and realized they were Omni brand. I used to use Omni base coat often with PPG's Deltron clear with great results. The primers were always DP series epoxy (before the lead free crap they sell now) and K36 high build primer which is probably the best high build urethane primer you can buy.

Have fun with blocking!! It's one of the most grueling processes in autobody. Do you have a good selection of blocks to use? They make the job go much smoother. One good thing is that the FJ40 tub is pretty much flat sheet metal.

 

[FJsnoozer]

I am going to buy a set, and I will probably have access to an air driven blocker. I forget the name.

I forgot to mention that all other coats will become inside my mome built side drat paint booth. I will have several fans at floor level drawing air through 80x20" worth of filters at the top corners. It is far to dust out there to paint anything other than a frame. I actually take most parts and put them upstairs in my parents house for clean storage.

I am using a gun the newer HF gun that is a devil bliss copy. I thought about using the well known "purple" HF, but I did not want to get a lemon. I actually bought a couple of those to practice with on primer, but I decided to use my better gun with its optional 1.8 tip since I was spraying the high solid primer.

 

[toomanytoyzz]

I'm anxious to hear how the booth works out for you. I would wet the floor real good before spraying to also help in keeping the dust particles from having a party on your freshly applied paint.

The sander you are referring to is called an air file or sometimes referred to as a long board. They are great if you have alot of spots which need to be knocked down due to previous bodywork. Perfect for the 1/4's and rockers on FJ40 tubs.

You should be fine with the gun you are using for primer. The 1.8mm tip is ideal for laying down an even coat of primer. The reducer will help it flow even better.