Alternator relocation and wiring - What gauge wire?

[Coolerman]

If anyone has a cheaper source PLEASE post it up. I have looked everywhere for this part. I would really like to find "a kit" with just the connector housing and terminals so when I get to building later harnesses, or someone is using that style alternator on a early Cruiser, I can easily attach it.

 

[SouthBostonFJ40]

Oooops! You are correct sir! I should have added you would need the wiring for the 50 amp gauge also which is a bit more complicated and doesn't really work well anyway.
I have a shunt block rated for 100amps that outputs 5 milli-volts for every amp through it. I use it when building harnesses to measure current flow for different circuits. See attached pic. One of these days I want to build a system that uses a cheap under dash mount volt meter and this shunt that could replace the amp meter in just these cases.

Also the OEM wire size for the B+ wire on the 71 was a bit larger than 10ga. I sell 8ga wire for the replacement. The other two wires to the alternator are 18ga.

I would follow the advice about unwrapping the harness as far as needed and moving the wires. It will be easier if you remove the harness from the truck and lay it out so you can do it right. I would also as already mentioned add a fusible link.

So I shouldn't have bought that 50 amp ammeter?

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[Cruiserdrew]

So I shouldn't have bought that 50 amp ammeter?

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I would just use the stock 30 amp one. The 50 amp is a different design and isn't really measuring 50 amps. There is s shunt in the wiring under the hood. It's a safer design but much more complicated.

Question for coolerman-If you build later harnesses, what will you use for the fuse block? I think it's a great idea, BTW.

 

[flaa1a]

I added the FJ 60 alt to my 72 pig with help from Jim C and he did not mention having to switch the amp meter. IT worked fine....

 

[Coolerman]

So I shouldn't have bought that 50 amp ammeter?

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Sell it on E-Bay for three times what you paid for it? I do apologize, I don't know where my head was that day, I know better than that!

 

[Coolerman]

I would just use the stock 30 amp one. The 50 amp is a different design and isn't really measuring 50 amps. There is s shunt in the wiring under the hood. It's a safer design but much more complicated.

Question for coolerman-If you build later harnesses, what will you use for the fuse block? I think it's a great idea, BTW.

Probably the OEM panel since there is very little that can go wrong with it and it mounts right where it needs to. I'm using a Blue Sea 6 circuit panel on a slightly custom 64 harness I'm working on. It's almost the exact same size as the OEM but will require a simple mounting plate to put it in the same location.

The later harnesses are going to require that the person have the OEM harness available. There are some connectors that must be reused as there is no known replacement OR I will have to use different connectors meaning I would also have to re-wire the device side.

I am currently dissecting/documenting a 76 harness and looks like most of the odd connectors use normal 6.3mm terminals. I will have to locate the Emissions computer terminals and a couple of others but it should be possible.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

I am currently dissecting/documenting a 76 harness and looks like most of the odd connectors use normal 6.3mm terminals. I will have to locate the Emissions computer terminals and a couple of others but it should be possible.

Do you want my left overs from my 76 harness? I have a lot of connectors left over that I'll send if they would help.

I don't really like the stock fuse block as it uses those glass fuses and not more modern ones. The advantage though, as I see it, it the stock fuse block is very small and can fit in the stock location. Most aftermarket blocks are too big and really don't work there. I tried to make my Kwik wire block mount there, and it just was too bulky to fit.

 

[Coolerman]

Sure, I'll take any wiring parts/scrap you have and will be happy to pay the shipping on it or trade you wiring parts I stock equal to shipping. Those round green connectors used on later harnesses are for the most part unavailable anywhere.

 

[Coolerman]

I don't really like the stock fuse block as it uses those glass fuses and not more modern ones. The advantage though, as I see it, it the stock fuse block is very small and can fit in the stock location. Most aftermarket blocks are too big and really don't work there. I tried to make my Kwik wire block mount there, and it just was too bulky to fit.

No doubt that the ATC style modern fuse is more reliable and easier to identify it's value as compared to the glass fuses. OEM Toyota glass fuses were actually color coded so you could tell their value. See pic.

I am using a 20 position ATC fuse panel on my 2/71. It easily fits where the fuse panel fits on later years. I just had to make a bracket. It's made by Bussmann and is expandable. http://www.waytekwire.com/item/46075/BUSSMANN-RTMR-ATC-FUSE-BLOCK/ it has a switched section, a separate always on section just like OEM and then there is a third section I wired up to a switched relay for high power accessories.

 

[Hugh Heifer]

Here is one source though they sure ar not cheap!
http://www.repairconnector.com/products/Nippondenso-Alternator-Repair-Connector-2-Wire-Female-Terminals.html

Thanks. And true Drew, great stuff on Coolerman's site. I have been on there constantly going back and forth on the wiring diagrams.

Edit: BTW - that site is out of stock. I found another but the price seems to just keep going up.
http://store.alternatorparts.com/partnoc1500.aspx

Edit: Shipping and hadling $11!?!? Are they on friggin crack???

Sent from my thing with Woody's junk.

 

[Dhugalmac]

Drew - It sits inline between the battery and the alternator. Most of the loads in stock form come off the alternator side of the ammeter. So if the ammeter is +, there is enough current to power all your loads and current is flowing into (ie charging) your battery. If (-) then it's flowing away from, and discharging, the battery.

That is a nice and simple way of explaining how to read the ammeter.
BUT I have a question...
I had to pull my instrument panel and with that I disconnected the ammeter wires. Stupid me, I did not mark them as to which wire went to which ammeter terminal. So the + and - you talk about might be correct or, if I somehow swapped the wires, they could be reverse.

Mine is an old 72 FJ40 with a -30 to +30 amp analog ammeter.
I just now fired up the FJ40 after having let it sit for a while, but I did bring my battery to full charge with an out-of-vehicle charge.
However, my ammeter is now going FULL -30amp. Nothing is smoking and my fusable link (now a maxi-fuse) is still OK.

So 2 questions actually....
1. Which wire should go to the - side of the ammeter - the alternator side or the battery side.?
2. What might the Full -30amp reading be an indication of?

Thanks