All Geared up and no place to go! (1 Viewer)

[r2m]

Hey All,

I haven’t posted in some time on account of a full time job, full time student and being an Army officer reservist with a unit of soldiers under me. Needless to say, I have no life. But I WILL someday again. So even though I’m completely re-geared, I have to wait 1000 miles for break-in and then find the time to try everything out! All geared up and not place to go!

Anyways, regarding the meat of this post, just had my ’98 100 Series (with factory E-Locker) completely re-geared. Here’s the story:

1. Front and Rear diff gears
· Manufacturer: Nitro 4:30
· Distributor: Just Differentials
· Website: justdifferentials.com
· Phone: 866.349.6801

2. Front air locker
· Manufacturer: TJM
· Distributer: Just Differentials

3. Transfer case re-gears
· 3.116:1 Gear set (replaces the 2.488:1 factory transfer case gears). Almost 75% total gear reduction (with torque converter).
· Manufacturer: Marlin Crawler
· Distributor: Marlin Crawler
· Website: marlincrawler.com
· Phone: 888.942.7295

4. Compressor
· Manufacturer: ARB
· Model: CKMTA12; On-Board Twin Air Compressor, 100% Duty Cycle, 12Volt
· Distributer: Just Differentials

5. Locker switch
· 80 Series factory Front and Rear Locker rotary switch to replace the factory 100 Series Rear Locker (only) rotary switch (the rotary switch just left of the steering column on the lower dash). Added small rocker switch to turn the compressor on and off just above the rotary switch.
· Manufacturer: Toyota
· Distributor: (I forgot who I purchased the switch from. It was from a Ih8MUD vendor. Just can’t remember who.)

6. The shop that did all the work was UniTrax Drivetrain Inc.
· Website: gounitrax.com
· Address: 1280 N. Sunshine Way, Anaheim, CA, 92860
· Phone: 800.622.4327

NOTE=>> I have to put out huge KUDOS to the staff at Just Diff’s and the staff at UniTrax for making this happen! I’ve been slowly purchasing all my components over the last year, plus. I installed the ARB compressor, switches and everything just fine so the only thing needed was to get all my gears purchased and installed. Somewhere along the line, parts for the TJM Locker came up missing, either from my partial install a year ago or perhaps from the manufacturer. I also needed new front half shafts and birfs. I saw the half shafts and birfs when I picked up my rig and they truly were trashed.
UniTrax and Just Diff’s worked together to get the missing parts so they could finish the job. UniTrax also sourced out new half shafts and birfs at a fraction of the cost of Toyota OEM parts. I could have been totally taken to the cleaners on this job if it wasn’t for Just Diff’s and UniTrax. I highly recommend Just Diff’s for your gearsand if you’re in Southern California, have UniTrax do the install.
Please check out their websites and NO I’m not getting any swag for this post. It’s just the truth.

Forgot to note I'm running 35" tires with a 2" suspension lift and 1.75" body lift (3.75" total lift). Also, the re-gearing COMPLETELY reset my speedometer to almost dead on! At 75mph, my GPS says I'm doing 74mph. I can live with that! At lower than 40mph, there is no difference between my speedo and GPS readings.

 

[mcgaskins]

Wow that's quite the collection of work! I too have a 98 with rear locker and would like to go above a 33" tire but won't until I can afford gears and a front locker. I'm very curious to know your opinions about how it drives now and what tire size you intend to run. I also like the lower tcase gears for the relative price as well.

 

[OregonLC]

and 1.75" body lift

Pics? How did you handle the steering linkage and radiator with that much of a BL? From posts here, it seems that the 1" Jonesy kit is a good stretch.

 

[hoser]

1. Front and Rear diff gears
· Manufacturer: Nitro 4:30

I'm guessing you meant 4.88's, right?

 

[spressomon]

^ this was going to be my question

 

[r2m]

With all due respect Gentlemen,

Here is a link to the Just Diff's website that has the gears I purchased:http://www.justdifferentials.com/GPTOY100-4-30-1-p/gptoy100-4.30-1.htm

Now whether there is a typo or not, I don't know. I don't have the box or paperwork any longer from the install so I can't check that out.
Found this out from the Nitro site and it shows both 4.88 and 4.30 gears.
That site is here: http://www.nitro-gear.com/news/2012...inions-for-1998-toyota-landcruiser-70100.html

That's the best I can do.

Regarding the body lift, I built that myself ordering nuts (nylon insert), extended bolts and the round rod from Mc Master-Carr. It was supposed to be a 2" lift but after I squared away the ends of the dowels, it was 1.75" which is all I really needed. I think it was Spressomon who has a post regarding how to do a body lift. I used that as my inspiration. Thanks Spressomon!

I turned an aluminum rod to extend my transfer case shifter, cut the bottom of my fan shroud and loosened (extended) the coupler for the steering rod from the cab to the steering box. If you do a search for R2M you should be able to find some posts of pic's I posted after I did all that with the 35" tires and new rims.

The only issue with the lift and a very small one at that, is I have to make sure the shift lever is engaged ALL THE WAY into Park to get the key out.

 

[OregonLC]

The only issue with the lift and a very small one at that, is I have to make sure the shift lever is engaged ALL THE WAY into Park to get the key out.

If you're interested, there's a solenoid on top of the ignition shaft that controls this. Easily to disconnect if you want. Only downside is you risk walking away from your truck not in park.

 

[AimCOtaco]

With all due respect r2m,
Why would you re-gear without knowing what ratio you're going to and why?

I would guess that you're running 4.88's if your speedo changed. 4.3 would be a stock replacement.

 

[r2m]

I know what I bought when I bought it, but that has been way over a year ago and if you look at my first post, you may notice that remembering what my gearing is, presently is the least of my worries. (No attitude intended.)

But in response, you and the others are probably correct and I do have 4.88's.
One thing for sure is that with 35" (BFG MT) my speedo was about 10% off and now it's almost dead on which is nice so I don't need the GPS on my phone all the time when I'm driving.

 

[hoser]

Yes, your speedo should be just about dead on with 35's and 4.88's.

UniTrax and Just Diff’s worked together to get the missing parts so they could finish the job. UniTrax also sourced out new half shafts and birfs at a fraction of the cost of Toyota OEM parts. I could have been totally taken to the cleaners on this job if it wasn’t for Just Diff’s and UniTrax.

I hate to be a downer but I'm pointing this out because there still might be a chance to get your OEM CV's back before they throw them away. I know you said they were trashed but didn't go into details. If UniTrax sourced you cheaper CV axles, it's because they ARE cheaper CV axles. OE is pretty much the only way to go... especially if you plan to wheel it.

 

[r2m]

I appreciate the input but I'm past the point of no return now. There is no more budget for getting a set of $800.00 half shafts.

With all due respect, I hope you're wrong.

 

[hoser]

I've been wrong before.

 

[AimCOtaco]

I've been wrong before.

Not this time, I'm afraid you're right on.

I know what I bought when I bought it, but that has been way over a year ago and if you look at my first post, you may notice that remembering what my gearing is, presently is the least of my worries. (No attitude intended.)

Very true, Kudos for all your hard work. I was being an ass and I apologize.
I'm just jealous because I'm lusting after 4.88's but haven't allocated the funds, you've allocated the funds but can't remember what you bought.

 

[r2m]

AimCOtaco,

No worries, no offense taken... Another really cool thing I've noticed beyond my speedo being back to normal, is the kick-in-the-pants I'm getting now when I step on it!! I can't really throttle it yet on account of still having to break in the gears for another 700 miles, but the little bit I do, WOW!

Ok... It's not like my GSXR motorcycle or even a mild sports car, but compared to what it was, there is a great improvement!

Now I'm just waiting for the next "kick-in-the-pants", my gas mileage... :-(

 

[paflytyer]

Regarding the body lift, I built that myself ordering nuts (nylon insert), extended bolts and the round rod from Mc Master-Carr. It was supposed to be a 2" lift but after I squared away the ends of the dowels, it was 1.75" which is all I really needed. I think it was Spressomon who has a post regarding how to do a body lift. I used that as my inspiration. Thanks Spressomon!

I turned an aluminum rod to extend my transfer case shifter, cut the bottom of my fan shroud and loosened (extended) the coupler for the steering rod from the cab to the steering box. If you do a search for R2M you should be able to find some posts of pic's I posted after I did all that with the 35" tires and new rims.

The only issue with the lift and a very small one at that, is I have to make sure the shift lever is engaged ALL THE WAY into Park to get the key out.

I've got some questions on the body lift. Why did you need 1.75"? That seems like an awful lot of gaps to make up.

When you say loosened the coupler for the steering shaft, are you talking about at the rag joint? Or at the intermediate shaft? There was no way I could have made up an extra almost 2" in space. I simply couldn't drive my truck safely with just a 1" BL without doing some steering work. Did you add any length? Spacers or otherwise?

I lowered my radiator by 1 inch to avoid the shroud cutting method, and when I looked at it, it seemed like you'd really have to make some big space for anything more than 1 inch. How much shroud did you cut? I'm wondering if there is that much difference from vehicle to vehicle, because I was at the limits of what I thought could be done with a 1" body lift.

Can you post a few pics of the rag joint or the coupler you loosened to get your steering back to normal? I'm curious to see how you gained so much space. No problems with the shaft as it passes through the firewall? Gaps at bumpers/sliders? Sorry for the barrage of questions, just curious.

 

[paflytyer]

And, you mention having birfs, as in birfield joints...... But we don't have those on the 100 Series.

 

[hoser]

And, you mention having birfs, as in birfield joints...... But we don't have those on the 100 Series.

Well, yes and no. Birfields (as like in SFA Toyotas) are Rzeppa style joints and the LC100 OE CV's are Rzeppa style joints as well. I think birfields were a brand/manufacturer. Toyota doesn't really call them birfields either.

 

[r2m]

Regard height, I was getting rubbing with the 2" suspension lift and my 35"s and I didn't want to use any bump stops to reduce wheel travel, so... 1.75" was the solution for me. As noted above, it was supposed to have been 2 inches, but after facing the ends of the blocks and getting them all even, it came out to a perfect 1.75 inches.

Regarding the steering: when I first finished the lift and tried (note: "tried") to drive it, the steering was all bound up. I wasn't sure what to do, so I started looking at the entire front suspension and steering. I noticed the coupler on the rod between the firewall and the steering box and thought if I were to loosen that up, the steering angle and length would settle in to accommodate, which it did, very nicely. After it settled in I tightened the coupler with the steering shaft having been relaxed, and all has been good for the last year!

 

[OregonLC]

Did you have to remove any material at the firewall plate like in this thread?

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8888272&postcount=121

 

[paflytyer]

Regarding the steering: when I first finished the lift and tried (note: "tried") to drive it, the steering was all bound up. I wasn't sure what to do, so I started looking at the entire front suspension and steering. I noticed the coupler on the rod between the firewall and the steering box and thought if I were to loosen that up, the steering angle and length would settle in to accommodate, which it did, very nicely. After it settled in I tightened the coupler with the steering shaft having been relaxed, and all has been good for the last year!

If that's the case, I think you're compromising your steering shaft at that coupling way too much. That is a lot of space to open up between the two intermediate shaft assemblies. You're leaving very little in the way of splines engaging. Having that thing come apart could be absolutely disastrous on the highway. Both to you and any other vehicles on the road. Adding spacers at the rag joint is a much safer operation IMO. Is this the coupling you loosened and let open up/separate?