All Geared up and no place to go! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter r2m
- Start date
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r2m
Richard
- Thread starter
- #22
Bingo! That's the one. After adjusting, there was very little (can't remember now since it's been over a year) "new" shaft exposed after loosening the coupling, I'm thinking, maybe less than an 1/8"? As a mechanical engineer, I truly understand your concerns and I too would have felt uncomfortable to the point of going in a different direction if I deemed it to be unsafe (say, more than 25% of the couplers length).
r2m
Richard
- Thread starter
- #23
I may have to look into that! I've already had a valet trash an ignition key trying to get it out of the ignition without it completely being in Park. Luckily, it was only the $5.00 key housing, so it was an easy fix. But I still have to remember to tell every valet to be sure it's all the way in Park before removing the key.
It's the white square in the center.
Muddy Bean
Breaking something or fixing something
Been there done this. Disabled mine and one day forgot to put it in park...truck ended up in intersection. Yah. Don't do that.
Ha! Yes, it's there for a reason. I'm pretty anal about my shutdown sequence: shift to N, parking on, foot off, weight transfer to drums, shift to P. This puts zero load on the pawl. And if it ever 'pops' when I get back in I know that I have a parking break problem (which never happens). It is a PITA to adjust the parking break with wheel spacers.
As a side note, I was on the trail a couple of years ago and got out to take a picture of my truck with Mt. Adams in the background. I couldn't figure out why the mountain was moving across my frame... got out with the truck still in D and parking break on. Not my brightest trail moment.
As a side note, I was on the trail a couple of years ago and got out to take a picture of my truck with Mt. Adams in the background. I couldn't figure out why the mountain was moving across my frame... got out with the truck still in D and parking break on. Not my brightest trail moment.
What do you mean by "facing the ends of the blocks"? If it was supposed to be 2", did you shave .25" off each puck? And if so, why?
Any pics? I'm curious to see a few things. Your shroud, the blocks, steering linkage, heater core lines, gaps......
Any pics? I'm curious to see a few things. Your shroud, the blocks, steering linkage, heater core lines, gaps......
r2m
Richard
- Thread starter
- #28
Not meaning to be a jerk, but I don't have the time right now to go through looking for the stuff in my garage to take pictures (read the first part of my original post regarding time). If you note the times of these posts, I'm sneaking them in while I'm at the office. 
Regarding the pucks, I believe I made them from Static-Dissipative UHMW Polyethylene (super impact resistant, which is what you want) which can be found on Mc Master-Carr for about $17.00/foot for a 2" round rod. You will only need one foot. I purchased all my long bolts and aircraft locking nuts (nuts with the nylon insert, highly suggested) from Mc Master-Carr also.
When I was referring to facing off the blocks I should have said "pucks". I used my vertical/horizontal electric drop band saw to cut the pucks. It did a fine job, but I probably should have not cut right at the 2" line. As the saw was cutting through, the blade wandered a wee bit and made them all under 2". I then had to chuck them all in a lath and face the ends to make them square. After all was said and done, they turned out to be 1.75" which, again, as it turned out was the perfect amount of lift I needed!
Regarding the pucks, I believe I made them from Static-Dissipative UHMW Polyethylene (super impact resistant, which is what you want) which can be found on Mc Master-Carr for about $17.00/foot for a 2" round rod. You will only need one foot. I purchased all my long bolts and aircraft locking nuts (nuts with the nylon insert, highly suggested) from Mc Master-Carr also.
When I was referring to facing off the blocks I should have said "pucks". I used my vertical/horizontal electric drop band saw to cut the pucks. It did a fine job, but I probably should have not cut right at the 2" line. As the saw was cutting through, the blade wandered a wee bit and made them all under 2". I then had to chuck them all in a lath and face the ends to make them square. After all was said and done, they turned out to be 1.75" which, again, as it turned out was the perfect amount of lift I needed!
Muddy Bean
Breaking something or fixing something
I just wanna see pics. Tons of pics. I don't care what they are....
r2m
Richard
- Thread starter
- #31
Griffin,
Here's the link to my 2" body lift with the 35" BFG MT's: https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/602448-venturing-into-rarefied-air-2-body-lift.html
The pictures at the bottom of the thread are not with the body lift, I still need to post those.
So much to do, so little time.
Here's the link to my 2" body lift with the 35" BFG MT's: https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/602448-venturing-into-rarefied-air-2-body-lift.html
The pictures at the bottom of the thread are not with the body lift, I still need to post those.
So much to do, so little time.