All dash brake warning lights plus "you're gonna die!" buzzer

[8lifgr8]

So I picked me up an LX470 for my wife's daily and an overland build, and we've been enjoying every minute of it.

I was on my way to work when all the brake dash lights came on and the buzzing....now I've searched the forum on this before, but my symptoms were a bit different:

The brakes were fine. I tapped them while the alarm was buzzing...no "squishy feel", not sudden loss of braking, just all the dash lights.....Heck, more than I've ever seen with my Land Rovers, if that's possible.

So now I'm at work doing research, seems the most likely culprit is the Brake Master Cylinder, accumulator, or ABS pump, all in one unit, which appears to be gold-plated titanium based on the price. Seriously, $1800-2500?!?!

I've got an icarsoft TYYT coming to see if there are any codes, and I plan on checking resevoir levels after work. Could this be a weird sensor glich? Every ih8mud thread on this incident is followed by squishy brakes or no brakes. I've had neither.....anyone have that before?

 

[Dparo]

I took a turn really hard way too fast once and all sorts of alarms went off. I never could find a thread why.

 

[Dwight S]

If you have the lights and buzzer, DO NOT DRIVE. It will go from stopping to zero with little to no warning. It will take all the leg pressure you can muster just to get it stopped.

What year 100 and how many miles?

You can find master cylinders on Ebay with rebuilt pumps in the $400 range (after core refund). For the difference in cost, I would go the rebuilt route.

You can check the ABS codes by using a piece of wire and the under-hood access port on the passenger side fender. I don't have links right now, but there here on MUD somewhere.

Check this out:
http://testroete.com/car/Toyota/mr2 spyder/References/Technical Training/05 - Brake Systems/20.pdf

 

[MongooseGA]

Sounds like the problem I was having in my old LX. I was getting BRAKE warning lights occasionally, never felt any sort of effect on the actual performance, though. From my understanding, this is basically the car telling you the system is about to go out completely and you don't want that. I bought the parts to fix it and then wrecked the truck before installing. I have the parts available for MUCH less than the numbers you mentioned. Check the classifieds or shoot me a PM.

 

[8lifgr8]

It's an '03 LX470 with 123k. I'm looking at sourcing parts now.

 

[Dwight S]

Think about this vs new.

ABS Brake Pump Master Cylinder Booster Actuator TOYOTA LAND CRUISER LX470 03-06 | eBay

 

[CloudCity]

When mine was failing the pedal felt normal, but the system was definitely going out. I agree that it's a serious condition and should be addressed properly and without further driving to err on the side of caution and safety.

 

[8lifgr8]

Update: So I made it home. Zero issues. Car felt fine. If the lights would have never gone on at 5am, I would have never guessed something was wrong.

Back in the garage I was able to get the lights to come on. I had to press the pedal repeatedly and then they would light up. That was repeatable, I could get them to go off every time with this method. What is odd, is that I was highway driving (no brakes) when they went off the first time.

In any event, I thought I'd make a video for you guys to comment on. I don't think the pump is squealing that bad? But it does look like something isn't sealing right in the master cylinder?

I thought I'd gather some footage and document the troubleshooting and repair. It's always a pain when someone is researching a problem that someone had that is exactly like yours, but they NEVER post what fixed it!

 

[Pyrenees]

"you're gonna die" buzzer, lol. The first time my VSC started beeping at me I thought it was going to start saying "stall, stall, pull up" at me.

 

[LEX]

I hate reading these threads afraid that I'll get jinxed. Anyhow, I keep this thread saved just in case.

Source for rebuilt booster pump on master cylinder

 

[Leandro]

on the pre-VSC trucks, what lights will warn you?

 

[Dwight S]

ABS, BRAKE and warning buzzer.

 

[Dwight S]

on the pre-VSC trucks, what lights will warn you?

ABS, BRAKE and warning buzzer.

 

[ScubaJon]

you may want to check your caliper bolts. If the calipers are loose and you step on the peddle you get lights and the death buzzer.
Not that i got distracted and went on to the passenger side caliper before tightening the drivers side and torque it down.


Err no wait that was a friend that did it

 

[Manhattan]

I hate saying it (piling on) but, that's how my '06 behaved before the $1,700 repair. Lights and the "you're gonna die" buzzer, but the brakes were fine - happened a few times like that... then 90% of the brakes just disappeared. I just about ripped the steering wheel off pulling up as I pushed the brake pedal down - ended up about 8" from a cop's door.

 

[CloudCity]

In any event, I thought I'd make a video for you guys to comment on. I don't think the pump is squealing that bad? But it does look like something isn't sealing right in the master cylinder?

Mine did the burbling in the same spot when it was going out. I also thought there was some issue with air getting in, in my case another dealer had just done a brake flush and introduced a lot of air that they didn't get out but I also read while researching the problem originally that sometimes a hard line gets cracked or a gasket fails allowing air to enter. Part of me still thinks some of these brake assemblies aren't truly dead but rather just need resealed, but that's wild speculation. I'll try and link the video from my instagram that shows it along with the dying seagull screech.

 

[8lifgr8]

Did you just replace the cylinder or did you have failures in the brake lines too?

 

[CloudCity]

Did you just replace the cylinder or did you have failures in the brake lines too?

If you’re asking me, no, my lines were perfect, it was the assembly that had issues. Here’s exactly what was written on my work order, “Verified system fault codes related to brake actuator failure C1252 boost pump motor, C1223 ABS system failure, also noted pump motor sounded weak.” They bled it and let it sit overnight but it did the same thing the next morning. I forgot to mention that earlier that mine would only go into fail mode on the first start up of the day so that’s why they kept it. It did the same thing and threw the same codes again “verifying actuator and pump motor failure.”
I kept the old assembly.

 

[8lifgr8]

Ok, so I'm in the process of the repair, and filming it. I've drained the brake fluid in the reservoir and now, accordingly to the FSM, I have to take the interior trim out to access the mounting bolts from behind.

The FSM is crap for interior work. I always tend to break things, and as can't find a diy or video on properly removing them?

I'm assuming on the scuff plate, I just pry up with a screwdriver? Same with the cowl side trim? Just pry straight back?

Looks like the duct register and lower panel (under the steering wheel) show screws. Any other tips.

 

[CloudCity]

I'm assuming on the scuff plate, I just pry up with a screwdriver?

I don't have the details you're asking for but I would like to advise against using a screw driver. If you don't have access to or don't want to run to Harbor Freight or hardware store to get a cheap set of plastic trim removal tools ($12 or less usually) then use the widest tool you have like a metal scraper that you tape off for a little extra protection, or even those pan scrapers you may have in the kitchen drawer. Larger plastic panels often come off easier by simply using your hands to pull using steady force. Sometimes if you get the front edge free you can put a flashlight on it to peek behind and look for screws or other push clips.