Alignment specs after lift

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You're green, and if it's not rubbing, I'd rock it. Given the level of total f**ktardery in the alignment business in your area, I wouldn't trust any of them to do anything else. I don't even believe the numbers on your printout, actually. The "before" measurements in post #40 don't even come close to the "after" measurments in post #24. They should be close to the same if no one has dorked with the alignment. Which one is telling the truth? Your steering wheel misalignment lends credence to the Toyota shop, but they "should" have been able to much, much better with the OEM UCA's in the first place.

"Could" you get your wheel centered in the wheel well? Absolutely, in an hour - with a compentent shop. Given your experience, if it's not rubbing, let it be. All they have to do is rotate LCA forward to max, and then rotate the SPC UBJ one notch forward to dial caster back down to spec, slide the UBJ in/out to dial camber, tighten to torque specs and send you on your way. You have encountered no one that has shown capability to do that while simultaneously taking your money as payment for services rendered.

Truck probably drives great as-is at speed, yes?
 
You're green, and if it's not rubbing, I'd rock it. Given the level of total f**ktardery in the alignment business in your area, I wouldn't trust any of them to do anything else. I don't even believe the numbers on your printout, actually. The "before" measurements in post #40 don't even come close to the "after" measurments in post #24. They should be close to the same if no one has dorked with the alignment. Which one is telling the truth? Your steering wheel misalignment lends credence to the Toyota shop, but they "should" have been able to much, much better with the OEM UCA's in the first place.

"Could" you get your wheel centered in the wheel well? Absolutely, in an hour - with a compentent shop. Given your experience, if it's not rubbing, let it be. All they have to do is rotate LCA forward to max, and then rotate the SPC UBJ one notch forward to dial caster back down to spec, slide the UBJ in/out to dial camber, tighten to torque specs and send you on your way. You have encountered no one that has shown capability to do that while simultaneously taking your money as payment for services rendered.

Truck probably drives great as-is at speed, yes?
Great feedback and you’re absolutely correct in that who knows what the truth is at this point. The truck drives great and while the caster #s at 3.6 and 3.4 are good, I wish both were closer to 4.1. But, like you said, I’ve been through hell with these alignments and since these numbers are all green while driving great, I’m going to leave it be.

Down the road, I will inevitably go a little higher on the lift and tires and when I do, it will be done at Main Line Overland in Pa where they do this stuff all day. I almost drove the 6 hours round trip for an alignment…so sad.
 
If all the numbers are there, drives great, and steering is in the correct orientation, I'd call it done and move on to your next mod!
You're biggest concern from an alignment is to ensure you get maximum wear from your tires and proper handling. That being said, if it's handling great, question is do you run your tires all the way down to the indicators? If you're anything like me, I usually get new tires when they're about 75% done. Because of the terrain I travel, I don't trust tires with < 25% tread. Also for the sake that I don't do a 5 tire rotation, it helps keep my 4 corners closer to O.D. to my spare should I ever need it.
But, just my opinion and opinions are like belly buttons, everyone has one.
 
I should have mentioned this earlier, but completely slipped my mind.
See if you can find a 4 Wheel Parts store near you. All they do is off road vehicles and being a large chain, they have a pretty good reputation.
I've never been disappointed with the few times I've used them. Only reason I don't use them more is there's a bunch of off road houses all around here in So. Cal. with some specializing in Toyota products, and the 4 Wheel Parts nearest closed some years ago.
Can you recommend off road houses in the Burbank, SFV, Glendale, LA area? Van Nuys works too.
 
Can you recommend off road houses in the Burbank, SFV, Glendale, LA area? Van Nuys works too.
These guys are good, but there aren't any very close to you: Off Road Warehouse Store Locations - Off Road, Truck & Jeep 4X4 Parts Near Me - ORW - https://www.offroadwarehouse.com/articles/parts-stores
But generally if they're doing a lift or something big, they need the rig for a day or so anyways, so just drop it off and pick it up the next day. That's what I've done. The nearest one to me is still 40 minutes away.
These guys are also pretty good: Find a Store | 4 Wheel Parts - https://www.4wheelparts.com/articles/find-a-store-4wp

Another option is to Google, "Toyota off road service near me" or something similar. Considering how huge Toyota pickups, Tacomas, 4 Runners, etc. are in the off road community, there are a lot of Toyota specific off road shops, just like there are a huge amount of Jeep shops.
 
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Question about alignment specs.
My all stock 22 on uneven roads it's really bad with it just wanting to pull and so much input to correct. Too sensitive in the wind too.

My local shop is all they do But always set toe to 0 degrees.
Not trying to steal the thread But I'd like to compare sheets and try to get this steering to calm down.

Checked brakes today on both rears 170 front 100 all 25 mph for a 1/4 mile with 3 stop signs before backing onto drive way.
1769123198544.webp
 

Attachments

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Question about alignment specs.
My all stock 22 on uneven roads it's really bad with it just wanting to pull and so much input to correct. Too sensitive in the wind too.

My local shop is all they do But always set toe to 0 degrees.
Not trying to steal the thread But I'd like to compare sheets and try to get this steering to calm down.

Checked brakes today on both rears 170 front 100 all 25 mph for a 1/4 mile with 3 stop signs before backing onto drive way.View attachment 4072875
Maybe try to get a little more caster for straight line stability and a bit of extra toe-in.
 
my camber is set to 0 deg and toe 0.12 deg.
I'll probably try to
Maybe try to get a little more caster for straight line stability and a bit of extra toe-in.
I've noticed if I have alot of weight in the back it steers better or 2 to 4 lbs psi less in the rear kinda does the same. Does anybody have a shop recommendation in the Greensburg area or near this?
I use hill city service

Thanks everybody
 
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I'll probably try to

I've noticed if I have alot of weight in the back it steers better or 2 to 4 lbs psi less in the rear kinda does the same. Does anybody have a shop recommendation in the Greensburg area or near this?
I use hill city service

Thanks everybody
If you are lifted without the Panhard bar correction, your tail will be more squirrelly. Adding weight in the back negates a portion of the lift and brings the panhard bar closer to its stock configuation.
 
Question about alignment specs.
My all stock 22 on uneven roads it's really bad with it just wanting to pull and so much input to correct. Too sensitive in the wind too.

My local shop is all they do But always set toe to 0 degrees.
Not trying to steal the thread But I'd like to compare sheets and try to get this steering to calm down.

Checked brakes today on both rears 170 front 100 all 25 mph for a 1/4 mile with 3 stop signs before backing onto drive way.View attachment 4072875
More Caster!!!!

More Cowbell.webp
 
Local Alignment shop will work with me on everyone's recommendations!
Things a nightmare in the wind and uneven surfaces.
Does anyone else have alignment sheets so I can give for comparison?
Mines stock, no lift, 265/60/18 tires.
I know caster caster and more caster!!

Thanks and wish me luck!
 
Local Alignment shop will work with me on everyone's recommendations!
Things a nightmare in the wind and uneven surfaces.
Does anyone else have alignment sheets so I can give for comparison?
Mines stock, no lift, 265/60/18 tires.
I know caster caster and more caster!!

Thanks and wish me luck!
A little trick to help with a large tire that rubs, is more caster.
For a fact that I need more caster to keep my 35" tires from rubbing on the rear of the wheel well at lock-to-lock and it drives and tracks great.
Sorry, but I don't have the alignment specs.
 
I'm all stock but the shop says the caster is maxed!
2.92⁰ in the left and 3.33⁰ on the right.

They told me all I could do was install a leveling kit or upper control arm kit to get more caster out of it. The toe was out so they did adj that back to 0⁰ and only charged me a set up fee $50, so no complaints!

I'll sit on this for now but I'll prob get a bug up my ass and look for a fix.........
No interest in a leveling kit as it's just at the limit my wife can get in/out with her disability.

Boy those control arms $$$

Thanks everybody!
 
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I'm all stock but the shop says the caster is maxed!
2.92⁰ in the left and 3.33⁰ on the right.

They told me all I could do was install a leveling kit or upper control arm kit to get more caster out of it. The toe was out so they did adj that back to 0⁰ and only charged me a set up fee $50, so no complaints!

I'll sit on this for now but I'll prob get a bug up my ass and look for a fix.........
No interest in a leveling kit as it's just at the limit my wife can get in/out with her disability.

Boy those control arms $$$

Thanks everybody!

If you are at stock height, that should be plenty of caster. Like overkill in stock form. Leveling it would remove some caster, but UCAs would add it back. Sounds like no need for either of those.

I may have missed it, have you played with tire pressures? High they are the more easy steering they get. Your TPMS light might come on but you could drop em down a good bit just to see how you like it. If that solves the feeling, then only really new tires would / could solve it.
 
I'm all stock but the shop says the caster is maxed!
2.92⁰ in the left and 3.33⁰ on the right.

They told me all I could do was install a leveling kit or upper control arm kit to get more caster out of it. The toe was out so they did adj that back to 0⁰ and only charged me a set up fee $50, so no complaints!

I'll sit on this for now but I'll prob get a bug up my ass and look for a fix.........
No interest in a leveling kit as it's just at the limit my wife can get in/out with her disability.

Boy those control arms $$$

Thanks everybody!
I did forget to mention that I do have Icon UCS... (oops) That probably helps with more caster
 
If you are at stock height, that should be plenty of caster. Like overkill in stock form. Leveling it would remove some caster, but UCAs would add it back. Sounds like no need for either of those.

I may have missed it, have you played with tire pressures? High they are the more easy steering they get. Your TPMS light might come on but you could drop em down a good bit just to see how you like it. If that solves the feeling, then only really new tires would / could solve it.
Yes I have and it helps to have the rear a few lbs less. 32F 29R or 400# of pellets and its nice and solid!
I may just have to find another shop despite these guys are third gen and all they do are alignments, I feel they know if they max out caster maybe something else gets out of wack??
Also the toe was out *they always go with 0⁰ toe. So it did change from last time they set it.

Also while.talking to the I had the alignment sheet from the dealer before I bought it and noticed the caster numbers were erased???
1769736858259.webp
 
I'm going to a supposedly good Toyota shop next week, and they will look at my alignment. I'll post once they look over the truck because I also don't like driving the GX when it's windy, and it gets really effing windy here.
 
...Boy those control arms $$$...
Nah, UCAs are some of the most ridiculously overpriced mods for what the actually are. There is no need to pay over a thousand dollars for a metal hoop, a few bushings and a ball joint. Get some Freedom Off Road ones and call it a day.

Edit: I see inflation over the last few years has hit the UCA market like everything else. But the point remains, it's super easy to overpay for UCA. Literally ALL of them are massively overbuilt compared to the OEM arms.
 
Just an update on the steering since my local shop maxed out the caster.

Before Caster Left 2.84⁰ now 2.92⁰ +.07⁰
Right. 3.29⁰ now 3.33⁰ +.04⁰
This seems to have worked in my favor even this tiny adj with everyones advice!

At highway speed 65mph one section gets alot of cross wind: I could feel it pushing But the GX tracked straight!!
I can just imagine getting it even higher!

I do not want to lift it and @re_guderian mentioned some upper control arms but they show for 2-4 inch lift???

Thank you again everyone
 
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