Alignment question after lift install on 100 Series

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
May 16, 2005
Threads
19
Messages
262
Location
Houston, TX
Need some advise from the knowledgeable people on the forum.

I've driven lifted trucks (40s, 60s, 70s and 80 Series) my whole life. But this is my first time with a 100 Series so "IFS behavior" is new to me.

It's a 2003 Land Cruiser on 275/70 R18 BFG AT KO2 tires with about 1.000 miles on them on the OEM (tired) suspension.

I installed a Heavy lift yesterday:
  • OME Nitro Shocks
  • OME Torsion Bars and Springs
  • Slee Diff Drop Bracket
  • SPC Performance UCAs
Currently has the stock bumpers front and rear.
Droop at the front is at 1.5 inches (38mm) instead of the recommended (2.1 inches / 55mm) because an ARB Sahara front bumper and winch will be installed (hopefully) next weekend, so the extra weight might put the Droop in recommended specs, if not, I'll adjust the torsion bars a accordingly .

So I had the truck aligned this morning at a local shop (just picked the closest one to me). After it was done, the steering feels (very slightly) harder to turn than it was prior to the lift (same tires). And there is some wandering on the road. Very minor, but still noticeable. Different to how the truck behaved with the stock suspension and different from what I know from my former solid axle trucks.

I asked for the alignment numbers and some values are off spec. The tech said he cannot correct the values any more as they are already maxed out...

Should I ask for a different tech ?
Should I try a different alignment shop ?
Or is he correct and a lifted IFS truck will have to live with some values out of spec?

Maybe lowering the front to the suggested Droop measurement will help get the alignment values in spec?

I was under the impression the UCAs would give the option to actually attain ideal caster and camber values... Maybe the tech does not know how to set these UCAs ?


Here's a copy of the values.
I appreciate your comments!

IMG_7423.jpg
 
Call slee. My understanding is they should be able to get you in spec with the control arms you bought. There should also still be a slight rake in the stance and the front should be lower by about half an inch. From everything I have read and seen the IFS handles better this way. Good luck.
 
The SPC arms should give you up to 4* caster adjustment. Meaning the arms should get you well within spec. I would call slee as suggested and see what christo says. Then I would take it to a competent alignment shop that knows how to deal with adjusting custom arms like that.

I would also suggest setting the proper droop and ride height until the bumper comes in, then resetting it. But that all depends on how long you have between this alignment and putting the bumper on.
 
Thanks for the replies guys.
I actually handed a copy of those instructions to the tech that performed the alignment.
I'll call Slee as suggested, it is definitely the best way to make sure, but it seem to me the Tech simply did not know how to adjust the custom UCAs.

I'll be without a bumper in the front for only one week, that's why I opted to leave the Droop a little "short".
 
Thanks for the replies guys.
I actually handed a copy of those instructions to the tech that performed the alignment.
I'll call Slee as suggested, it is definitely the best way to make sure, but it seem to me the Tech simply did not know how to adjust the custom UCAs.

I'll be without a bumper in the front for only one week, that's why I opted to leave the Droop a little "short".


Look at the "D" on the UCA. Which setting are they in? Do you have 2* of adjustment left?

If you don't want to deal with it, just take it to Javier Javier's Autos Unlimited
 
Thanks jLB. I'll check what you say and if they still don't manage at my local shop I'll ask for a refund (payed for a lifetime alignment program) and go to Javier's.
 
Honestly if I had to guess, you prob had an inexperienced alignment tech that did not know/care to adjust the upper control arms. He probably looked at all the factory adjustment locations and only used those because thats all he's ever done.
 
are they using a digital alignment system?
 
In looking back over your before & after readings, it's kinda interesting that caster appears to be out of spec but unchanged on either side.

Maybe you need to also provide the shop with a print of this, (although step 1 might throw them for a loop)
 

Attachments

@wolffo Yes, digital alignment system.
@jLB Well, I'll let them have another shot at it. I talked to Amory Lockwood at Slee and he was very detailed at checking with me the UCAs are properly installed (as you "could" make a mistake when putting them together but they are correctly assembled) and explaining about the tolerances they will give regarding camber, caster and toe. So the Tech should be able to put all the values within spec or I'll simply go elsewhere....

Thanks for the replies. I'll post up once I get it right just to have the info on-line in case somebody else has the same problem.
 
mine wanders a bit lifted with 121k on the original steering rack and tie rod ends
 
Fwiw, most techs in my area will not make ajustments on aftermarket control arms. You will likely need make that ajustment yourself or find a specialty shop that will.
 
image.jpeg
All is well now.
I found a guy that knows alignment with aftermarket suspensions.
He took a look at the UPCs and said "yes no problem". Took him 20 minutes to get all values within spec.
The truck now drives smooth and straight as it did with the OEM suspension and small tires.
For reference, caster is corrected by turning a plate that is sandwiched between the bronze thicker plate and the UPC body under the ball joint... The ball joint nut must be loosened almost all the way, use a pry bar to lift the UPC body, turn the plate as needed to get the necessary degrees as per the instructions and then tighten everything back up... This was the step the other alignment shop skipped.



 
Glad you got it figured out!
 
View attachment 1214914 All is well now.
I found a guy that knows alignment with aftermarket suspensions.
He took a look at the UPCs and said "yes no problem". Took him 20 minutes to get all values within spec.
The truck now drives smooth and straight as it did with the OEM suspension and small tires.
For reference, caster is corrected by turning a plate that is sandwiched between the bronze thicker plate and the UPC body under the ball joint... The ball joint nut must be loosened almost all the way, use a pry bar to lift the UPC body, turn the plate as needed to get the necessary degrees as per the instructions and then tighten everything back up... This was the step the other alignment shop skipped.
What alignment shop did you end up going to get it figured out?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom