Alaska Bound, equipping the hundy

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Joined
Sep 10, 2007
Threads
26
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Location
Blairsville, GA
I just got a new job in Anchorage, AK. The plan is to sell my wife's car, buy a toy-hauler RV and drive up there (from GA). I have 1-2 months to prep for the trip. Drive will be 4900 miles from Columbus, GA to Anchorage, AK (going through TX to visit family so extra 600 miles for that).

Phase 1: Going to tune up the hundy (2000 UZJ 4.7L). Plugs, fuel filter, air filter, PCV valve, clean throttle body and MAF,, front brake pads. Before leaving will change all fluids to Alaska appropriate specs. If anyone has links to parts I would need please let me know. I plan to order everything this week. Oil change before leaving and at around 3k miles into the trip.

Phase 2: Get the hundy ready for towing.
A) Headers to improve towing/mileage. If anyone has a good source please let me know, otherwise will do DT. Would it be a good time to do a diff drop while the headers are going on?
B) Hitch/brake controller. I'm debating adding a regular hitch or removing the pintle that is already there and using one of these: http://www.rigidhitch.com/default.aspx?page=item+detail&itemcode=2201172. Any opinions which would drive better? I'm guessing the regular hitch would be best for such a long trip.
C) I'm considering finding some Tundra 18" rims and getting 33" tires on them for the trip. Still running OEM gears and these 35" tires won't help with towing.

Phase 3: Take 2 weeks off and drive to Alaska. Go nice and slow, probably around 60mph the whole way. Live in the RV on the way up and until we find a place to live.

Any holes in my plan I'm not seeing? I'm also planning to get clip on towing mirrors I found in another thread. Can anyone recommend an engine block heater for the hundy? Any recommendations on a toy hauler RV? I plan to find one around 3500lb dry to leave room for moving stuff. Planning to hit the 6500lb capacity loaded. Here is the parts list I'm considering so far (I don't have to order from amazon but it's an easy way to get everything in one place):

Receiver Hitch: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016KFVRU/?tag=ihco-20

Ball Mount: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0046EJ66A/?tag=ihco-20

Brake Controller: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KKLLX0/?tag=ihco-20

Fuel Filter: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JPL0CS0/?tag=ihco-20

Air Filter: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004C63EQA/?tag=ihco-20

PCV Valve: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KTG5HJY/?tag=ihco-20

Tow Mirrors: http://www.reese-hitches.com/products/CIPA_Extension_Towing_Mirror__Single_,11950
 
Take a look at your bulbs before you head out as well. Just headlights and the overhead lamp. Small, but a big pain in the ass when they go out.
I just drove from Vegas to Utah, Colorado, and back to Texas, couple of things I thought I'd add:

The smaller, less traveled back roads through Colorado are excellent. The scenery is better, the traffic lighter and the people friendlier. I would make sure your route a) takes you through Colorado but b) takes you through as many small towns west of Denver. In particular, Colorado's "State"(not national) parks are well kept secrets. You can do some prime camping and chilling in Colorado's state parks.

I also took two Jerry Cans of water. Why? Because it's starting to get expensive and it's not as simple as hitting a convenience store. It was nice to simply tilt that when I needed a drink. As you go west in this country, you'll really notice your water intake increase and in states like Arizona, Utah, Nevada, it's just not as easy to find cheap.

If you have a draft of your trip route, I'll gladly add any suggestions that come to mind..

Great trip and sounds like a great time!
 
I second the back roads of CO. Most of the time, when I drive from TX to CO, I stop in Clayton, NM, then drive to Raton with the sunrise at my back the next morning. It makes for a nice view as you get closer to Capulin (cindercone volcano). I turn north on the interstate, get off of the interstate at Trinidad and go west on 12, the Highway of Legends. I take my time on 12, checking out Cokedale, Stonewall, always spend a little time at North Lake, stop at the corral pens at Cuchara Pass, then down the mountain with a stop in Cuchara for a burger or just to look around, and La Veta. There are a lot of ways to leave La Veta but with an RV the best is probably to continue until you tee into 160. Turn left. Turn to the right and you end up on the interstate (ick).

Or, go south out of Raton to 64 and turn west. You'll pass the NRA Center early in a few miles or less. Watch for Antelope. Sometimes they get stuck between the two fences and will run in front of you. Continue on to Cimarron, Ute Park, and Eagles Nest. There's a real nice turnout before Ute Camp (I think). I saw a Black Bear there once. It's a good place to relax by the river. Continue down thru Angel Fire to Taos to Tres Piedras, Tierra Amarilla, and stop at the Cumbres and Toltec narrow gauge railway station in Chama. If you like old steam trains your'e going to love Chama. From there go north, over Cumbres Pass then east to Antonito. From there... it's up to you :o)
 
Be prepared for some slow hills. Especially if you enter British Columbia. All my LC does all winter is tow a 6000 lb sled trailer all over the province. Winding mountain roads I was lucky to maintain 40 mph. Running 33" tyres. 50 mph on the steep straight climbs. Most of our mountain roads are 75 mph, with or without trailer. I too would like to try some DT headers and see if that frees up flow. Winter tyres are mandatory in BC from Oct 1 to April 30. Mountain flake symbol required. BFG a/t ko have these symbols. Only an issue if it has snowed and they have a road check. One way around this would be to go through Alberta but that's just boring. Oh and 10 mpg is what I average towing that load. Our gas right now is $1.33/litre for 87 octane. Enjoy your drive through though. BC is an amazing place to drive no matter how slow you go.
 
I've always wanted to drive my LC from Dallas to Anchorage, roundtrip. We have friends who live up there. Figure I'll need 4 weeks vacation from work to do it. I like to make it about the journey, rather than the destination.

The furthest I've previously driven was up into Montana while exploring Yellowstone. Alaska would be three or four times that trip.

You're traveling one way, with a specific purpose. So it's different.

Good Luck!
 
I second the back roads of CO. Most of the time, when I drive from TX to CO, I stop in Clayton, NM, then drive to Raton with the sunrise at my back the next morning. It makes for a nice view as you get closer to Capulin (cindercone volcano). I turn north on the interstate, get off of the interstate at Trinidad and go west on 12, the Highway of Legends. I take my time on 12, checking out Cokedale, Stonewall, always spend a little time at North Lake, stop at the corral pens at Cuchara Pass, then down the mountain with a stop in Cuchara for a burger or just to look around, and La Veta. There are a lot of ways to leave La Veta but with an RV the best is probably to continue until you tee into 160. Turn left. Turn to the right and you end up on the interstate (ick).

to you :eek:)

This is sound advice. I've done the trip from DFW to Hayden, Co 2x in the last year, and cutting through Raton, NM to the San Juan range is good driving. It's wide open but scenic. Though I like Colorado Springs quite a bit and often go around Denver. Just habit I guess. Would still be wiser to go back roads.

My suggestion is to give thought to how you want to go east to either Texas or Oklahoma and go interstate so as to save time for the mountains. You'll either cut north to i40 from Atlanta or take i20. There is probably no best way but I would get to the central time zone quickly, and drive straight through the plains states. Here is why I say that: people(even in Texas) greatly underestimate the size of west Texas. Pay attention to the distance on your itinerary so that you plan enough time to get through. Finding hotels in the panhandle can be exasperating and the weather can be so windy that camping isn't worth it. Just unpredictable.

I also really enjoyed driving from Calgary to Vancouver. If you think you can squeeze in that crossing, it would give you the chance to see Banff...and lake Louise. Well worth it.

Buy yourself enough time to enjoy the mountains
 
Bear in mind that if you choose to drive through west TX via IH 10 there is an oil boom going on in the Midland - Odessa area and beyond. Motel prices are extremely high and availability can sometimes be an issue. I would assume that RV slot availability would be even worse
 
I will start the trip heading west on I-20. I'll visit my dad in White settlement, TX then head to my grandparents house in Andrews, TX (right in the middle of the oil boom, but I have tons of family there). I'll head north from there to Amarillo to visit my cousin. After Amarillo we will head to Colorado Springs to see my brother. The next planned stop from there is Edmonton, Alberta where my wife knows a teacher she worked with in Romania. I'm trying to visit family on the way up so we can wait a few years before coming back to visit again.

Aside from the trip, what does everyone think about the towing setup I have planned? I'm still debating hitch vs bumper towing for the trip.
 
May want to get a battery warmer (as well as that block heater) and you will likely need extra gas cans to get thru the Alcan Highway. Also, the canadians are very difficult when it comes to crossing the border and you will want to have your paperwork in order (If you've had a DWI you will not be allowed in their country) and be prepared to totally unload and repack everything.

Water, Clothing, Shelter, and Food and usually in that order. You can go weeks without food but you will need water.

If you dont have a block heater you can hang a light bulb under the hood and plug it in and be better than nothing. I understand many retailers up there have plug ins at their parking spots.
 
B) Hitch/brake controller. Brake Controller: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KKLLX0/?tag=ihco-20
I'd take a look at Prodigy brake controllers...I've used them on 3 Suburbans, :princess:'s Ram horse hauler, and my LX. Very good brake control and extremely dependable.

For a block heater, check Kats 11414...about $40 at NAPA or other parts stores. This is something you'll want to install once you remove the passenger-side exhaust manifold.

You might also consider an onboard battery charger...Schumaker (sp??) makes one about 3x5" you can mount near the battery.

I'm not aware of any fluids specifically "Alaska appropriate specs"...I just use M1 5W-30 regardless of climate.

Only other thing I can think of...are you taking any firearms??

If so, contact your local Canadian consulate before leaving. Long guns are no big deal, but you'll need some paperwork...easier to fill out before you leave than at the border.

If you're thinking of bringing handguns, watch yer butt.:mad: It's a very BFD as to bringing them into Canada. Though it can be done, it's easier, I think, to ship them to yourself at your new Alaska location...perfectly legal under federal law. Expect to be asked about weapons several times at the border crossing.

Have a great trip...the Alcan Highway is way up there on my bucket list.

Godspeed.:)

Steve
 
Having just done this trip again I would recommend:
- Winter/ snow tires if you are leaving after 10/15. I wouldn't trust all season or mud tires when pulling a trailer on icy surfaces
- Carry 10 gallons of extra fuel. Gas stations have already started shutting down due to the end of the tourist season and gas can at times be hard to find. Most true once you hit Tok.
- Bring at a minimum 1 good spare tire in the right size. Also bring a patch kit and an air compressor
- Ship your firearms if possible. Canada not a big fan of anything other than a shotgun or hunting rifle. Anything that looks scary will not make it through.
- Take your passport
- Bring extra cards for the digital camera. It will be a great trip!
 
I know you haven't mentioned this but if I was heading that far, I'd be quick to install a long range fuel tank. It'd not only extend your range but let you fill up when you see good prices on gas... in AK that can make a big difference over time. Have a great trip!
 
If you head up to Edmonton stop by Banff for some awesome sights
 
Also, photocopy your passport and place it in the glove box(the copy). If it gets lost, you'll still have something to show border officials.
Considering your model as well, look at the power inverters you can plug into the back A/C plugs. That way you can power up: laptops, phones, etc. I get a lot of use out of my power inverter...

I'll give you some more info about Calgary/Edmonton...
 
I've got that same hitch (the hidden hitch branded one) and works great towing our Airstream (3500 lbs)...I went with the Tekonsha Prodogy brake controller (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YIACG8/?tag=ihco-20) that came with an adapter from a different vendor (cheaper than Amazon as well, but no 2 day prime shipping). Simple to install with the Toyota adapter...plug in and use....I mounted it in the ash tray location and is easy to use when driving. Make sure your suspension can handle the load of the trailer, when I had stock springs and shocks the Airstream dropped the back 4 inches giving a reverse stink bug look. Might want to consider new springs or airbags to level it out....
 
Disclaimer: Never been to AK. But...

I see you listed front brake pads, but be sure to check the rears...they usually wear faster.

One thing I never leave home without is a basic survival kit. I would double up on some bivvys and space blankets, good knife, water filter, etc. If the thought or fear of getting stranded ever crossed your mind, it's worth it to keep in your rig.

Don't see any spare parts/basic tools on anyone's lists... add in a couple of spare parts that could come in handy... Spare key, coil packs, starter rebuild kit, etc. I even keep a spare ignition assembly as even they are prone to failure and then you're up the creek.

Few things I never leave home without... But that's just me.
 
Thanks for the tips. I thought about an extended fuel tank but they are very expensive. Plus I would have to move my air tank, and I'm not sure if they would even work with the tow hitch. I have 2 jerry cans, may pick up 2 more for the trip. I haven't decided what to do about my firearms yet. I will probably ship all of them except a shotgun, just to have something with me. I will have food/water in the RV. I had considered getting an extra starter and CV axle for spare parts. I need to get a second key too, I only have one. The truck has onboard air, full size spare that matches the K0 BFG A/T that are snow rated. I have a tire repair kit and plugs with me, and always keep my bug out bag in the back. I have my air compressor on a slee dual battery tray, do you guys think I should relocate it and add a second battery? Does anyone know of a source for an OEM engine block heater? Any recommendations on headers aside from DT? I need to get started ordering stuff and find someone to put the headers on for me here in Columbus (I have no lift or tools right now).
 
You'll be fine with the BFG A/T's in the snow... I drove through all sorts of snow (powder, lake effect, slop, etc) and they were incredible... Just remember to respect the snow... Even LCs arent immune to slipping and sliding.

Why not call Beno for Toyota parts? He could probably have them there in a day.

I've never seen a thread talking about the DT Header install being easy. I remember seeing that lifting the engine is the easy way out.
 
Does anyone know of a source for an OEM engine block heater? I need to get started ordering stuff and find someone to put the headers on for me here in Columbus (I have no lift or tools right now).

Have the block heater done by the guys at Kendall Toyota (formerly Nye) in Anchorage. They have all the parts and will get it done right.
 
Does anyone know of a source for an OEM engine block heater?
Info here with part numbers, and it wouldn't hurt to pick up a spare cord... http://manage.toyotaap.com/docs/LEXUS_080411.pdf

Again, if you do the headers, far easier to install the heater once header is removed...amhik ;).

I'm not sure the headers would give you increases in mileage and/or power that would justify the costs for parts and installation. But that's just me.
 
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