Air flow - Engine Bay

[Tapage]

Hi guys ..

Well all know my lovely Tencha .. and she's turboed and intercooled .. boosting right now as far as I need 14 PSI ( max I ever seen was 15 PSI in a fress night after a hill at 3k rpm ).

The issue is, and sure I tune up the fuel .. ( 2.5 turns now ) but still geting hot ..

Are not a EGT issue coz my EGT are always under 1000 ºF no matter hoy hard I push she .. and I have my exhaust on my side I can see how much smoke I get .. but nothing looks black over 4 PSI .. ( I discard pyro wrong readings ).

I go to change the Fan this sat and try to place it more close to the rad ( coz I have few OEM for cheap that stay couple of inches away from the rad ) in order to know if this is the way of the problem.

Also I have a flex a lite S blade in front to help with my AC that I can start as I want with a cabin switch. It helps but can't solve the water temp issue.

Under heavy traffic or semi - rock trails the temp still in less than 1/4 so fresh .. but as far as I start pushing hard the engine on road .. the temp start climbing.

Just wondering if this issue should be related with my hood scoop for my intercooler, coz the hole it's huge ( as bigger as my hood scoop is .. but I have any rubber or foam that control the air flow direct to my intercooler since I thought more air in the engine bay it's better ..

Coments are apreciated ..

 

[canucksafari]

I have heard of people in Australia with ongoing overheating problems raising the hinges about an inch. They say it allows for the air to better move through the engine bay. It would look kind of goofy but it might help some. I suspect you may need to have a closer look at your radiator.

 

[Tapage]

I don't think in my Rad coz before the Turbo was working incredible fine .. ( have less than 50k miles on it ) anycase, at heavy traficc or idle there is no water temp problem .. even with the AC on ..

I'm thinking in more water .. maybe get it from the heater plogs to another rad .. the issue is where is the best place for the other radiator ..

 

[canucksafari]

I'm thinking in more water .. maybe get it from the heater plogs to another rad .. the issue is where is the best place for the other radiator ..

Not sure if I follow you here. You are thinking that your rad is not big enough now to provide good cooling? Or, are you thinking you have somthing plugging your cooling system?

One of the tricks I have if it is a very hot day and I am climbing a long hill on the highway is to open up the heat in the front and rear on full. This is not very popular with the family - even with all the windows and sun roof open. However, it does bring down the heat a lot.

Are you sure that your fan is pulling enough air through the radiator? I know read of some posts where guys running Patrols have gone to dual electric fans and swear that they are great at brining down the temps when they are towing trailers in the Australian summer heat. If your rig is 12V, there are a lot of options out there for you.

 

[Dougal]

Do you have an air conditioning radiator blocking the flow?

 

[inkpot]

Howdy! Are you running a shroud on the radiator fan? When you drive hard, the engine generates much more heat that during normal driving. You may need to flush the radiator to get maximum cooling. John

 

[Tapage]

Not sure if I follow you here. You are thinking that your rad is not big enough now to provide good cooling?

Yap .. it is, since my 2H and cooling system ( need to check the part # in the EPC for 2H and 12H-T rad and water pump ) was never designed for that amount of power that I'm running right now.

One of the tricks I have if it is a very hot day and I am climbing a long hill on the highway is to open up the heat in the front and rear on full. This is not very popular with the family - even with all the windows and sun roof open. However, it does bring down the heat a lot.

That are you doing it's adding more rad for the cooling system with the heaters .. much more water ( or cooland in my case ) Flow ..

Are you sure that your fan is pulling enough air through the radiator? I know read of some posts where guys running Patrols have gone to dual electric fans and swear that they are great at brining down the temps when they are towing trailers in the Australian summer heat. If your rig is 12V, there are a lot of options out there for you.

My Tencha it's 12V and maybe my far are away from my rad .. issue that I will solve this weekend. But also I'm running a flex a lite S blade 2000 cfm .. in front ( pusher mode ) and helo a lot .. but not solve the problem.

Do you have an air conditioning radiator blocking the flow?

Yeap I have .. and Iv'e try it with and without AC of course woth the AC working hard, the temp raise pretty much faster ..

Howdy! Are you running a shroud on the radiator fan?

Yes I have .. the factory one.

Note .. now here in Panamá we are in summer .. hot day heavy temps around 32ºC

 

[roscoFJ73]

Just wondering if this issue should be related with my hood scoop for my intercooler, coz the hole it's huge ( as bigger as my hood scoop is .. but I have any rubber or foam that control the air flow direct to my intercooler since I thought more air in the engine bay it's better ..

Coments are apreciated ..

This could be it. If you introduce air through another opening ,the engine bay is pressurised and you will not get so much air passing through the radiator.
The radiator is much much better at cooling than having air blowing across the engine,but you still need circulation so the hot air can get out and cool air can come in via the radiator.

Another way would be to have the intercooler at the front

 

[Big Blue 84BJ60]

My Tencha it's 12V and maybe my far are away from my rad .. issue that I will solve this weekend. But also I'm running a flex a lite S blade 2000 cfm .. in front ( pusher mode ) and helo a lot .. but not solve the problem.

try having the fan pull the air through rad (instead of pushing) as you drive the air comming at you and having the fan pulling the air through will cool alot better than if you are trying to push air through the rad (the air comming at you might cancel out the pushin effect)

 

[Spallet]

Tapage,

Try using hood vents,this will help to get the extra heat out the engine bay..

 

[lynchmob]

What you describe almost sounds like a bad or stuck open thermostat. Low temp at idle and around town then when it has a load the temp climbs.

 

[Tapage]

This could be it. If you introduce air through another opening ,the engine bay is pressurised and you will not get so much air passing through the radiator.

That make much sense Rosco ..

Another way would be to have the intercooler at the front

Haven't really enought space on front for the intercooler ..

try having the fan pull the air through rad (instead of pushing) as you drive the air comming at you and having the fan pulling the air through will cool alot better than if you are trying to push air through the rad (the air comming at you might cancel out the pushin effect)

Yap .. I have the flex a lite on front of the rad ( between rad and grill ) and it's in pusher .. so it push air throught the rad to help the factory fan ( that pull air throught the rad )

Try using hood vents,this will help to get the extra heat out the engine bay..

Hood vents on sides of my hood scoop or on the flares .?

What you describe almost sounds like a bad or stuck open thermostat. Low temp at idle and around town then when it has a load the temp climbs.

mmm I could try remove the termostat and see what happens ..

Anycase can post a how looks the factory fan with the shroud in a HJ60 .. ?

 

[lynchmob]

Not sure Id remove the thermo.

I think you should try a new one. With no thermo or a bad thermo - the water doesnt spend enough time in the radiator to cool off. Works fine around town, but on the highway or under load (like offroad) it will build too much heat.

 

[BlueHZT60]

Tapage - this is what I'm thinking, as I have the same issue with my 60 - hz. My oil temps & EGT's stay tollerable, but under load my water temps climb too fast and too high for my comfort. Try this web site: Air to Water Intercooler

I think we can put it all together for $299 (kit price), plus elbows/hoses ($$$'s for silicone). Or custom order the parts for $400-$500 depending on what we want.

I measured. On my 60, 24" width overlaps about 1/2" on the AC inlet/outlet pipe. At 1" thickness, I think I'll have to make a new hood support & maybe trim out just a little of the grill to allow space at the edges of the intercooler. Perhaps the thing to do is make a radiator mount/hood support all in one unit?. Mount the interchanger unit somewhere inline, post turbo, plumb and wire it and be done.

OR - my phased idea: Get the 1" radiator, pump & a tank. Then plumb the turbo water line on its own coolant circuit.


Water/Air Intercooler Radiator - 24x12x1 (Type 100)
[WAT001002] PRICE: $149.99

Water to Air Intercooler, 12.5"x12.25"x4.5", Thru I/O (Type 10)
[INT000211] PRICE: $149.99

Water to Air Intercooler Installation Kit (600HP)
[WAT001012] PRICE: $54.99

Water/Air Intercooler Pump and Harness, Bosch Cobra
[WAT001001] PRICE: $119.99

 

[canucksafari]

I bet your wife makes you wash off your boots before you drive onto the patio, eh?

Personally, if it isn't just a thermostat, I would go the routt of a bigger radiator with a couple big 12V fans to pull the air through. It would probably be a lot cheaper to do that then a water cooled intercooler. The question is do you have the space for a bigger rad. I am not sure if the water cooled intercooler will bring your temps down that much if your EGTs and oil temps are normal. From what I have read, the major beneift from water intercooling is tio lower your EGTs some more so you can add more boost.

 

[Adam B]

I think rosco is on the right track. If you've changed the way the air moves through the engine bay (which seems to be what you've identified as the title of this thread) then it's pretty hard to know just how the air is moving through your radiator. All the fans in the world might not be able to overpower the air entering through your hood scoop. Put your hand behind the puller fan and feel the weak air flow. Now stick your hand out the window while you're driving, even at low speed, and feel how much air flow there is. If these two are competing it's not hard to imagine who will win.

As for the placement of hood vents, I remembered reading a good article about it so I just did some searching and found this:

Hood Vents :: Oman4x4.com

He vented the low pressure areas of the hood so that the hot air could escape. Read the whole thing, it's really interesting.

 

[ozwallaby]

While it mite look "dicky" put some spacers between bonnet hinges n bonnet to lift the back up say an inch... then see wat happens to temps... this is an easy test to see if you are retaining too much heat under the bonnet.. if it works then maybe look at permanent vents as suggested...

 

[Tapage]

I bet your wife makes you wash off your boots before you drive onto the patio, eh?

No oil changes, engine wash, or mayor repairs on the " patio " but at the end ya know that said .. Happy wife .. happy life !

I think rosco is on the right track. If you've changed the way the air moves through the engine bay (which seems to be what you've identified as the title of this thread) then it's pretty hard to know just how the air is moving through your radiator.

Thanks for the link I will read ..

And I'm wondering how to make a fence for the air that come throught the hood scoop/intercooler as come in the top mounted intercoolers as factory in other models ..

I have a little space to add a other row rad .. not more wide, but more thick, that would add more water, to the hole system but maybe not the flow that I need.

While it mite look "dicky" put some spacers between bonnet hinges n bonnet to lift the back up say an inch... then see wat happens to temps... this is an easy test to see if you are retaining too much heat under the bonnet.. if it works then maybe look at permanent vents as suggested...

That's a good idea dude .. I will do a test tomorrow and see what hapen with new fan and fab some spacers for the hood at back.

As I said, are not EGT issue ..

 

[Otterav]

Hello,
You are experiencing a radiator that is too "small" for your new application, it simply cannot reject enough heat to remain cool. You need a "larger" cooling rejection rate radiator. I replaced my stock BJ42 rad for the very same reasons you are describing. After discussing the problem with the folks at USradiator(U.S. Radiator - Options), I ordered the USradiator, triple pass, high efficiency, desert cooler radiator. I am still in the process of installing this rad so I haven't used it yet, but I am convinced that this will solve my high power output cooling problems. I will post my results in my build up thread FJ/BJ mutation.
Hola
eric

 

[Tapage]

Hola Eric .. gracias por tus comentarios.

Thanks for your comments, I'm not sure if a larger rad could be the solution .. but sure it would help. The issue is I can't go bigger rad ( wide ) only more rows if it's the case ..

Here you have a clear view of my engine .. on both sides of my rad have les than 2" for battery trays.