AI suggested 12v IGN relay trigger source

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GeoRoss

GeoRoss

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I’m planning out the wiring and routing for a relay switched AUX fuse box in the engine bay. On a whim I asked ChatGPT for both ACC and IGN trigger sources. One it suggested that I hadn’t considered was the IG+ pin in the diagnostic box. I’ve not heard of anyone trying that. Stick a pin in and go with no messing with any other wiring. Pull it out when needing to check for codes. I only need the system to run when the truck is running, so all good there.

AI surprised me.
 
And I went to check my wiring diagram. AI hallucination. :lol:

Someday maybe it will be reliable. I was looking to see if I had missed and possible sources, nope.
 
So where are you going to tap?
 
I think this is a great source of switched power trigger source for a relay, inside the engine bay.


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Dragos80 said:
I think this is a great source of switched power trigger source for a relay, inside the engine bay.
Click to expand...
Most items in that relay box (1) are constant +12 fed from one of 2 fusible links.
Ignition switched power is found in the fuse panel in the cab (2).

1769899896688.webp
 
jonheld said:
If you're not consulting the Toyota EWD then you're just wasting your time.
Click to expand...
Going with the original plan. Tap into the Cig circuit in the cab and run it into the engine bay. I was trying use AI to see if I missed anything. I don’t want to tap into mission critical circuits.
 
I ran a dual battery setup for years with the solenoid/relays activated when the alternator was 'good' - i.e. not just ignition, but engine running.

A picture of the fuse I tapped in the engine bay -> https://george4wd.taskled.com/auxbat/altgood.jpg

It provides 12V when the alternator is up and producing good charging power. You can use that signal as the hot to a relay coil, the other side to body/ground. The relay will then energize when the engine is running an alternator is up and charging.

cheers,
george.
 
Dragos80 said:
Those on the right side?
Horn and EFI?
Click to expand...
Doesn't your horn work with the key off like all vehicles?
Doesn't the EFI fuse supply constant +12 to the ECU?
Read the schematic.
 
Dragos80 said:
Apparently it works without the key. I had no idea it was designed so poorly.
Click to expand...
Every vehicle horn works the same way. It is a safety feature.
Horns always work.
Brake lamps always work.
I believe it is outlined by the NHTSA.
 
Why don't you do something similar to what @Delta VS does for their "switched power"? Use a Blue Sea fuse panel and then use a relay similar to what is pictured below.

66c92906d7ea8627426e3eb5_bluesea_dualzone_prebuilt.webp


This particular one is a dual zone panel from Blue Sea. You can still do the same wiring with a smaller fuse panel.

The wiring is pretty simple. I hate wiring and not very smart when it comes to set ups like this but after some deep diving an finding the correct relay I studied and look at these pictures to make it all work in my mind.


relay wiring.webp


You can use the ground that is available on the fuse panel as your relays ground and then you only have to run a single wire over to the ignition switch. The "Device" in this picture will be the fuse panel, so you will run a wire from 87 to the (+) post on the fuse panel.

5030.webp


This is the fuse panel I am going to use. The top (-) negative post is your common ground for the full system. The 6 screws below that are the grounds for your loads and then the positive/power locations for the load. Then the (+) at the bottom will be where you hook up 87 on your relay to.

Amazon link for relay

Hope this makes sense.
 
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