Ahc lift for dummies

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I’m not a mechanic and I seem to find questions/issues with instructions that seem obvious and known to others.

I do not recommend you work on your car, especially using instructions by me. But if you’re going to do it, perhaps the following will reduce the chances you hurt yourself or mess up your car.

The following is what I did (including some details not explicitly listed in the video) to get an ahc lift.

The reason I did the lift was because, I assume, I didn’t have enough pressure pushing down on my axle when I hit pot holes and speed bumps. I got a sort of pogo effect. My assumption is that my 91 lbs total of unsprung weight on each hub (75 lbs being oem) was too much for the stock suspension to act how it did with stock wheel and tire package…the mild lift seems to have worked to tighten up my suspension dampening.

I used this video but am listing the instructions and adding a couple things that were not included.



  1. This can be done in 15-20 minutes and you don’t have to jack the car up.
  2. Put your vehicle in normal height and take measurements of how high your fenders are off the ground…I found that my passenger front was slightly higher than driver front…and driver rear was slightly higher than passenger rear.
  3. Put car into high, turn off ahc, and turn off the car.
  4. Loosen 10mm bolt on sensor in front left (push bracket up/slide bolt down to lift the vehicle). The bolt, as you loosen it, may just spin and not loosen…if so, stick a pair of pliers between the bracket and the “connector” to hold that piece as you loosen the 10mm bolt…i don’t know that there’s a known “how much to slide the bracket to get how much lift.” You can use something sharp to score the bracket a little bit to keep track of where you want the bolt to be…and then adjust accordingly later.
  5. Do the same thing with the sensor on the front passenger.
  6. Loosen the 10mm on the rear left. Slide up bolt to lift driver’s side rear.
  7. Do the same with the passenger rear.
  8. Start the car and cycle through the low normal and high range…your car may be a bit squirrely as it figures out the new height. Remeasure your fenders and go back to adjust sensors accordingly…but if you’re close, give it some time to “settle” before continually adjusting.




Note: my passenger rear, even though it was lower than driver rear, was completely maxed out on its setting before I messed with it. So there was no space to adjust it…by pressing the bracket by hand, I was able to bend it slightly and “manually” position it so that the fender height there was comparable to my rear drivers side.



After all was said and done, my fender heights, left to right, are equal height now (with front a little lower than rear as with oem). I lifted my fenders about 0.5” on average…so this accomplished an effective “balancing” of my car and a 0.5” lift.



With my larger, markedly, heavier tires and this lift, my ride dampening feels closer to stock…maybe back to stock. The car feels better on the highway. It actually dampens bumps like it did with stock wheels and tires. Comfort and sport settings actually have an appreciable effect on the ride again.
 
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I’m not a mechanic and I seem to find questions/issues with instructions that seem obvious and known to others.

I do not recommend you work on your car, especially using instructions by me. But if you’re going to do it, perhaps the following will reduce the chances you hurt yourself or mess up your car.

The following is what I did (including some details not explicitly listed in the video) to get an ahc lift.

The reason I did the lift was because, I assume, I didn’t have enough pressure pushing down on my axle when I hit pot holes and speed bumps. I got a sort of pogo effect. My assumption is that my 91 lbs total of unsprung weight on each hub (75 lbs being oem) was too much for the stock suspension to act how it did with stock wheel and tire package…the mild lift seems to have worked to tighten up my suspension dampening.

I used this video but am listing the instructions and adding a couple things that were not included.



  1. This can be done in 15-20 minutes and you don’t have to jack the car up.
  2. Put your vehicle in normal height and take measurements of how high your fenders are off the ground…I found that my passenger front was slightly higher than driver front…and driver rear was slightly higher than passenger rear.
  3. Put car into high, turn off ahc, and turn off the car.
  4. Loosen 10mm bolt on sensor in front left (push bracket up/slide bolt down to lift the vehicle). The bolt, as you loosen it, may just spin and not loosen…if so, stick a pair of pliers between the bracket and the “connector” to hold that piece as you loosen the 10mm bolt…i don’t know that there’s a known “how much to slide the bracket to get how much lift.” You can use something sharp to score the bracket a little bit to keep track of where you want the bolt to be…and then adjust accordingly later.
  5. Do the same thing with the sensor on the front passenger.
  6. Slide up bolt to lift driver’s side rear.
  7. Slide up bolt to lift passenger rear.
  8. Start the car and cycle through the low normal and high range…your car may be a bit squirrely as it figures out the new height. Remeasure your fenders and go back to adjust sensors accordingly…but if you’re close, give it some time to “settle” before continually adjusting.




Note: my passenger rear, even though it was lower than driver rear, was completely maxed out on its setting before I messed with it. So there was no space to adjust it…by pressing the bracket by hand, I was able to bend it slightly and “manually” position it so that the fender height there was comparable to my rear drivers side.



After all was said and done, my fender heights, left to right, are equal height now (with front a little lower than rear as with oem). I lifted my fenders about 0.5” on average…so this accomplished an effective “balancing” of my car and a 0.5” lift.



With my larger, markedly, heavier tires and this lift, my ride dampening feels closer to stock…maybe back to stock. The car feels better on the highway. It actually dampens bumps like it did with stock wheels and tires. Comfort and sport settings actually have an appreciable effect on the ride again.

A 2nd 10mm wrench can be used on the other side of the bracket if the bolt is spinning.
 
I’m not a mechanic and I seem to find questions/issues with instructions that seem obvious and known to others.

I do not recommend you work on your car, especially using instructions by me. But if you’re going to do it, perhaps the following will reduce the chances you hurt yourself or mess up your car.

The following is what I did (including some details not explicitly listed in the video) to get an ahc lift.

The reason I did the lift was because, I assume, I didn’t have enough pressure pushing down on my axle when I hit pot holes and speed bumps. I got a sort of pogo effect. My assumption is that my 91 lbs total of unsprung weight on each hub (75 lbs being oem) was too much for the stock suspension to act how it did with stock wheel and tire package…the mild lift seems to have worked to tighten up my suspension dampening.

I used this video but am listing the instructions and adding a couple things that were not included.



  1. This can be done in 15-20 minutes and you don’t have to jack the car up.
  2. Put your vehicle in normal height and take measurements of how high your fenders are off the ground…I found that my passenger front was slightly higher than driver front…and driver rear was slightly higher than passenger rear.
  3. Put car into high, turn off ahc, and turn off the car.
  4. Loosen 10mm bolt on sensor in front left (push bracket up/slide bolt down to lift the vehicle). The bolt, as you loosen it, may just spin and not loosen…if so, stick a pair of pliers between the bracket and the “connector” to hold that piece as you loosen the 10mm bolt…i don’t know that there’s a known “how much to slide the bracket to get how much lift.” You can use something sharp to score the bracket a little bit to keep track of where you want the bolt to be…and then adjust accordingly later.
  5. Do the same thing with the sensor on the front passenger.
  6. Loosen the 10mm on the rear left. Slide up bolt to lift driver’s side rear.
  7. Do the same with the passenger rear.
  8. Start the car and cycle through the low normal and high range…your car may be a bit squirrely as it figures out the new height. Remeasure your fenders and go back to adjust sensors accordingly…but if you’re close, give it some time to “settle” before continually adjusting.




Note: my passenger rear, even though it was lower than driver rear, was completely maxed out on its setting before I messed with it. So there was no space to adjust it…by pressing the bracket by hand, I was able to bend it slightly and “manually” position it so that the fender height there was comparable to my rear drivers side.



After all was said and done, my fender heights, left to right, are equal height now (with front a little lower than rear as with oem). I lifted my fenders about 0.5” on average…so this accomplished an effective “balancing” of my car and a 0.5” lift.



With my larger, markedly, heavier tires and this lift, my ride dampening feels closer to stock…maybe back to stock. The car feels better on the highway. It actually dampens bumps like it did with stock wheels and tires. Comfort and sport settings actually have an appreciable effect on the ride again.


Good stuff! I know it wasn't an easy journey putting all the details together. Thank you for documenting this and providing feedback on your findings.
 
There’s an AHC thread in the forum stickies. I wonder if this one should added to that?

 
Awesome that this worked out for you. I will try the sensor adjustments myself also as my (new to me) 2010 LX has a lean towards the driver side ( both front and rear). Driver side front is about 3/4” lower than passenger front and driver side rear is about 1” lower than passenger rear. Seems to ride perfectly fine, no excessive bounce when driving over bumps. Hydraulic fluid levels are good so will try the sensor adjustment to level out the driver side for now 👍
 
Awesome that this worked out for you. I will try the sensor adjustments myself also as my (new to me) 2010 LX has a lean towards the driver side ( both front and rear). Driver side front is about 3/4” lower than passenger front and driver side rear is about 1” lower than passenger rear. Seems to ride perfectly fine, no excessive bounce when driving over bumps. Hydraulic fluid levels are good so will try the sensor adjustment to level out the driver side for now 👍
Periodically, I’ve noticed that the vehicle will have lowered a corner…even though I previously adjusted the corners to be perfect in line with one another and slightly lifted.

I find that cycling through low medium and high and back to normal will get the vehicle to “figure out” it’s appropriate height again…and it’ll sometimes buck a little bit as it equalizes over the course of a couple minutes.

It doesn’t happen often though. I think only once since I did the lift…and I assume that this “lowering” of a corner has been a persistent issue I just didn’t notice before.
 
Awesome that this worked out for you. I will try the sensor adjustments myself also as my (new to me) 2010 LX has a lean towards the driver side ( both front and rear). Driver side front is about 3/4” lower than passenger front and driver side rear is about 1” lower than passenger rear. Seems to ride perfectly fine, no excessive bounce when driving over bumps. Hydraulic fluid levels are good so will try the sensor adjustment to level out the driver side for now 👍

They all do. I highly suggest you balance your rear springs as i have done. See AHC lean thread.

This is the only way for AHC balancing to equalize corner pressures while level. Otherwise you’re always stressing that corners shock more than need be.
 
Periodically, I’ve noticed that the vehicle will have lowered a corner…even though I previously adjusted the corners to be perfect in line with one another and slightly lifted.

I find that cycling through low medium and high and back to normal will get the vehicle to “figure out” it’s appropriate height again…and it’ll sometimes buck a little bit as it equalizes over the course of a couple minutes.

It doesn’t happen often though. I think only once since I did the lift…and I assume that this “lowering” of a corner has been a persistent issue I just didn’t notice before.

Just AHC trying to balance shock load since it lifts both sides at the same rate per axle. See above post.
 
They all do. I highly suggest you balance your rear springs as i have done. See AHC lean thread.

This is the only way for AHC balancing to equalize corner pressures while level. Otherwise you’re always stressing that corners shock more than need be.
Ok thanks for the info. I’ll definitely look into the spring replacement.
 
i don’t know that there’s a known “how much to slide the bracket to get how much lift.”


The FSM states that it's the same 2:1 ratio on the front for how much moving the sensor will move the height of the truck. (ie. move the sensor 1cm and truck will raise 2cm). I believe the rear is 1:1.
 

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