AHC Fluid Change How To -- Need Input (4 Viewers)

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Can someone please post pictures how the high and low fluid settings should be? Thanks

When you change your fluid you want to set the height to the max mark with the vehicle in N, presuming neutral pressures, overall vehicle height and cross level are in spec etc. I found it convenient to mark the L and HI range as per the attached photo, note that my vehicle isn't on level ground so the fluid is bit high, so no flaming;)

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I don't have an LX but my guess would be when you're in "Low" the fluid should be that the "Max" line, and when you're in "High" the fluid should be at the "Min" line. Obviously neutral will be somewhere in between. I could be wrong, but this seems logical to me.

I was thinking the same thing. It would be nice to see a picture in action. If that is the case, I have way too much fluid. I also too pictures of my mom's lx 470. Same fluid levels as mine on high and low levels.
 
I believe the fluid level should be between Min and Max when the height setting is in Neutral. This will leave enough room for the level to go down when the vehicle is in "Hi" and enough room for the fluid to increase when vehicle is in "Low".
 
Hi Friends.

Yesterday, I finally managed to change the ACH fluid. Thanks to all those who contributed. Information were spot on and pictures made a big difference.

My experience: I had the trunk on "Low" to empty the reservoir. Took out as much fluid as possible then filled it to the top. I started with the left front. After removing the fluid and noticing that I was getting clear fluid I stopped. When I went to start the truck, I noticed I had the trunk on "Normal" position. Other three I had it low. Second, went to the driver back side , then to right front and lastly right rare.

Question:

1. During the back bleeding, trunk did not lower as much as the front. Is that normal?

2.Should I had the trunk on "LOW" while bleeding (similar to emptying the reservoir)?

3. I got more "white air bubbles" coming from the back than the front. Is that normal?

There is definitely improvement on the ride. After the bleed, I drove from Austin to Houston.

First picture from the reservoir and second picture total clean out.

Next project-power steering fluid.

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Short answer: There's nothing abnormal about your experience.

Not much point in bleeding when it is in the low position - The whole idea is to get old fluid (and air) out. The higher the truck is when you start, the more fluid comes out. There is a point in letting it drop all the way down to the lowest when bleeding, to get the shocks compressed as much as possible to get the oil out of them. Be careful to close the bleeder without getting air in though.
 
Did mine yesterday too and kinda ran into a situation though? The accumulator/fronts and the passenger side bled fine (they quit bleeding on their own) but I couldn't get any fluid out from the driver rear :mad:

Yes I did start the truck in between and let it run for few minutes too.

Any way, after the first cycle, we just couldn't bleed any more (fluid just won't come out) so we stopped while scratching our heads.

Any way while we were packing things up, we noticed the fluid from the reservoir finally started to get low so we had to replaced quite a bit.

I guess, it took truck atleast 10 minutes to build pressure and for fluid to go back to the pumps.

I will be bleeding them again this weekend to finish it off.

The ride has DEFINATELY improved 60% though.

Any explanation for not being able to bleed the pumps?
 
Any explanation for not being able to bleed the pumps?
Bleed the pumps?
If you have let the car raise to Normal Height again after bleeding one corner, you will have pressure at all four corners and should be able to bleed.

Observe that when the steering wheel is straight, fluid will flow freely between left and right side, so after bleeding one side rear until clean fluid, there will be much less to bleed on the other side rear before it runs clear/clean. You have to read the steering wheel angle using Tech$tream, as it is not unlikely to be misaligned. At each front end alignment, the angle reading should be checked, but most mechanics don't even know that the feature exists.
The purpose of this feature is to prevent lean while cornering. There is a similar feature for accelleration and for braking.
 
The purpose of this feature is to prevent lean while cornering. There is a similar feature for accelleration and for braking.

When I am cornering, the car is leaning over badly.
Is this because of this steering angle?
When I tested the Mini VCI yesterday, the steering angle showed as -49.5 degrees.
Can't remember if the wheels were straight though.
 
When I am cornering, the car is leaning over badly. Is this because of this steering angle? When I tested the Mini VCI yesterday, the steering angle showed as -49.5 degrees. Can't remember if the wheels were straight though.

Any diagnostic codes? (another reason to use your new techstream)...

The leveling solenoids could be playing up, but I guess they would throw codes.

Here's the list of things to consider ;)

Resetting the steering though is real simple thing with techstream...

Cheers,
Andrew.

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When I am cornering, the car is leaning over badly.
Is this because of this steering angle?
When I tested the Mini VCI yesterday, the steering angle showed as -49.5 degrees.
Can't remember if the wheels were straight though.
Yes. If the wheels were straight, that would be a contributing factor. The AHC cruiser is quite soft anyway, so don't expect a "sport ride" even when the steering sensor is straight.

Resetting the steering though is real simple thing with techstream...
Can't see an easy way to reset the steering angle if you don't have VGRS. Afaik, that's a feature of the VGRS ECU, and without it there's no such feature. I would love to be corrected though, as mine is a bit out.
 
Can't see an easy way to reset the steering angle if you don't have VGRS. Afaik, that's a feature of the VGRS ECU, and without it there's no such feature. I would love to be corrected though, as mine is a bit out.

I think 2002 Australian deliveries had VGRS... Do you have VGRS Wilsil? (That is what I meant by resetting the steering wheel). Mind you, I am unsure if there is any interaction between the VGRS system and AHC - there may or may not be.
 
Don't know about that acronym.
 
I think the only interaction is that they use the same steering wheel angle sensor.
The AHC, afaik, reacts only to more than 30 deg steering angle by closing the valves between right and left.
 
I think the only interaction is that they use the same steering wheel angle sensor. The AHC, afaik, reacts only to more than 30 deg steering angle by closing the valves between right and left.
So as a theory if his wheel is set very drastically to one side or another the valve may not be closing... (Well may not be working at all anyway or from dampers may be shot)
 
Do you mean that after turning the steering wheel 360 deg it's back at zero?
In that case, no. The sensor/ECU registers the actual turning degrees of the steering wheel, going up to a value of more than 500 degrees in each direction. When the value is between -30 and 30 degrees, the L/R valves are open.
 
Do you mean that after turning the steering wheel 360 deg it's back at zero? In that case, no. The sensor/ECU registers the actual turning degrees of the steering wheel, going up to a value of more than 500 degrees in each direction. When the value is between -30 and 30 degrees, the L/R valves are open.

I meant if the VGRS has the steering wheel centre off, then it needs calibrating/resetting.

It may not be showing a value outside of -30 to +30 when it should. Then again,the steering sensor may be malfunctioning.

If he has no VGRS the valves may be malfunctioning or the steering sensor malfunctioning.
 
I did another check with the mini VCI and the wheel straight. The value was around -4.5 degrees.
I didn't see how you can calibrate it.
 

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