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- #21
Ah replacement for a conventional suspension set up then?
AHC delete or not to delete on 100 series overlanding build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Sooke
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GTV
SILVER Star
I think @ClassyJalopy recently did this?
Definitely check the condition of your bushings but given your low KM's I wouldn't think they would need replacing yet.
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- #23
I'll definitely take a look at the condition of them. I have found other bushings/rubber to be in need of replacement. This truck has not seen much for abuse though. It has been the family daily driver and the wife's mall crawler for the past 8 years or so and the original owner previous to me used it on weekends to tow his boat to and from his cabin. I have my 61 as my daily driver and off-road rig.
Yep.. Dobinsons IMS. Mine is strictly for off-road fun and fast sporty driving on dragon-like roads to off-road destinations.
You absolutely need to remove the entire shock. If the lowers are toast, the uppers are toast. And they will be. Approaching 2 decades on rubber.
It’s a pain, but if you plan on keeping it and keeping it functioning, it’s the same amount of work to do conventional. It’s a good system. I like my regular better for convenience. No fluids. No sensors. But, no cloud.
It’s a pain, but if you plan on keeping it and keeping it functioning, it’s the same amount of work to do conventional. It’s a good system. I like my regular better for convenience. No fluids. No sensors. But, no cloud.
Parrot?
I’ll disagree here.
I’m one of those that’s not an OME shock fan.
We’ve had the OME shocks on my son’s 2000 TLC for about 8 years now. We’re just getting around to replacing them now.
Taken by themselves, the OME shocks have a firm truck ride, that can be somewhat tolerated.
When compared to some of the other aftermarket options, they just seem overly harsh and punishing, both on road and off.
I believe using the word “comfort” in the same sentence as “OME shocks” (the yellow twin tubes available for the IFS 100) should be illegal.
YMMV
We can agree to disagree. Of course they aren’t the same quality ride as some other higher end shocks, but yeah don’t seem overly harsh to me.
They aren’t AHC quality, and they aren’t King quality. But I just don’t get the same feeling that I have seen people describe. My coffee doesn’t spill all over, my back doesn’t hurt, and I’ve seen people say those things about the yellow OME.
Your opinion is completely valid and if you’re comparing to reservoir or high end shocks, I agree with your statement. I just don’t feel like it’s how I have seen it described.
For what it’s worth, I have other shocks being built and I’m sure it’ll make the ride super comfortable, but I just don’t think mine rides harsh right now and neither did the other one.
YMV, and appreciate the perspective.
hoser
SILVER Star
In usual mud forum fashion, some advice for somebody who wanted to prepare and overland their AHC 100 with the least amount of drama.
Non-AHC torsion bars/springs will generally keep most moderately weighted folks afloat even if the AHC fails. You'll need 30mm socket to crank the torsion bars though. Timbren bumpstops will give you added support, should you experience failure. You could probably install Firestone airbags and leave in there at the minimum pressure, if you wanted further backup. If the system does fail, your ride will be horrible but at least you won't be stranded sitting on your bumpstops.
Most common failure are the AHC sensors. They are available through Toyota/Lexus but much cheaper if you buy Aisin (OE supplier).
Aisin sensors
HST-020 (Front Right) (Click here for some cheap ones)
HST-021 (Front Left)
HST-026 (Rear)
Toyota/Lexus fluid is recommended (maybe not lately with the batch of contaminated). I have not used anything else but I believe we can use Pertosin EHF fluid which is available in lots of auto parts stores. It is mineral based like OE Toyota fluid and used by Mercedes and other manufacturers in their Hydropneumatic suspension, similar to AHC with similar accumulators that have a rubber membrane.
There is also Pertosin CHF 11S, used for the same purpose but is synthetic. They say it is compatible with the EHF fluid but I don't know. Best to use the EHF fluid to be on the safe side (if Toyota fluid is unavailable). They do come in 1 and 5 liter quantities.
In the 20 years since I've had a lifted/loaded AHC 100, I've only had one issue, front AHC sensor went bad. YMMV. And I live in a rust-free area.
Non-AHC torsion bars/springs will generally keep most moderately weighted folks afloat even if the AHC fails. You'll need 30mm socket to crank the torsion bars though. Timbren bumpstops will give you added support, should you experience failure. You could probably install Firestone airbags and leave in there at the minimum pressure, if you wanted further backup. If the system does fail, your ride will be horrible but at least you won't be stranded sitting on your bumpstops.
Most common failure are the AHC sensors. They are available through Toyota/Lexus but much cheaper if you buy Aisin (OE supplier).
Aisin sensors
HST-020 (Front Right) (Click here for some cheap ones)
HST-021 (Front Left)
HST-026 (Rear)
Toyota/Lexus fluid is recommended (maybe not lately with the batch of contaminated). I have not used anything else but I believe we can use Pertosin EHF fluid which is available in lots of auto parts stores. It is mineral based like OE Toyota fluid and used by Mercedes and other manufacturers in their Hydropneumatic suspension, similar to AHC with similar accumulators that have a rubber membrane.
There is also Pertosin CHF 11S, used for the same purpose but is synthetic. They say it is compatible with the EHF fluid but I don't know. Best to use the EHF fluid to be on the safe side (if Toyota fluid is unavailable). They do come in 1 and 5 liter quantities.
In the 20 years since I've had a lifted/loaded AHC 100, I've only had one issue, front AHC sensor went bad. YMMV. And I live in a rust-free area.
David*BJ70
Looking forward to reach the end of the world
I reread my comment and read your's and I admit that it is strange that I am worried about AHC when I have myself a 12HT and a 1HD-FTE ! --> 2 engines with a meager support in North America. I guess I have a lot more confidence in these bullet proof engines than in a AHC suspension system. I LOVE the 1HDFTE! It is powerful and not very frugal (13.5L/100km fully loaded). I like the automatic transmission less. For parts, regular maintenance parts (water pump, tensioner, belts, ...) are available at Toyota or from mining companies that sell 1HZ where many parts are shared. Otherwise, it will be from the overseas market with a delay. My HDJ100 replaced my HJ61 as an overland rig but I love them both equally as children.
.... now, let's go back to our regular schedule
- Thread starter
- #29
Thank you. Yes I have just changed out all 3 ride height sensors preemptively with the Aisin part numbers you listed and will keep the originals on hand for spares.
It sounds like non AHC OEM TBs and coils will be the way to go with the added weight I plan to add.
MycoManiac makes a good point on the bushings. As part of my overland build, I replaced ALL my bushings and cushions, many of which were attached and pre-press fit into new swing arms, etc. I wanted a fresh start. It wasn't cheap. I replaced the accumulators and sensors for my AHC also. So essentially, I have a brand new entire AHC suspension, built to outlast me. Only other suspension modifications on my 8,000lb. pig, from stock, are Land Tank rear swing arms for fortification and to protect the swing arm mounts, and non-AHC 100 series coils in the rear (started with King Springs, added a tire carrier and that required the 100 coils to get my pressures in spec). No mods need to be made for the front suspension, as most of the weight added is usually toward and affecting the rear. (LRA Aux 24, Dissent alum skids, custom truck box (heavy), RTT, and swing out tire carrier w/ 10gallons of water mounted to it).
Especially for someone who is adding and subtracting weight to a daily driver (like me, and you, Sooke), the AHC system is your friend. Otherwise, you build out a vehicle with a typical suspension for one condition, and you are ass-dragging with your trailer, or raked forward when you pull out your camping gear.
With this pig loaded for bear, I've successfully passed through Lockhart Basin Northbound, and Black Dragon Canyon (both in Utah), with my AHC and my 20" wheels. The dudes going by in their monster trucks are always impressed that a vehicle that (looks) stock and steet-focused, can clear those areas. I owe that to the AHC system, and a vehicle that for all intents and purposes, eats other vehicle platforms for breakfast - straight outta the factory.
Land Cruisers ****ing rule.
Haha!!! Believe it buddy! The truck scale at the county dump don't lie!
Correct.
Our vet is 7/10 of a mile from the house, and every cat that we’ve owned has made every inch pure hell. I can’t imagine an enjoyable road trip with a cat
I can agree to disagree.
Maybe it has something to do with how much the torsion bars are “cranked” on your personal vehicle, or maybe it’s just tolerance for an “unloaded F250 ride”.
It reminds me of a C4 Corvette that I owned, while I was in college. I thought it “handled on rails”, up until the point in time that I drove my roommate’s 928S, where it became apparent that overly stiff may not be the best/only choice, and tire to surface contact is definitely a good thing.
The OME shocks are relatively cheap, and durable, but I do think that there are better options without having to resort to Icon/Slee/Radflo/King shocks.
trdcorolla may be right, but you'll just have to see once you've added all your wieght. It's a delicate balance, and unfortuntely, can involve some trial and error to get your coils and pressures right. I think it's worth it. And if you are somewhere between Kings and OEM non AHC, I'd recommend non AHC. Why? Better to not be able to get into Low mode to let grandma in, than to be on a trail and not be able to get into High mode. And to have crazy high pressures is not good for the longevity of the system (pressure and temp can work together against you on a rough road, when the system is working over time and you are getting some froth in the AHC fluid).
- Thread starter
- #37
If I were to add a front bumper and winch would it then be necessary to switch to OEM non AHC TBs to account for the increased constant weight on the front? Or could the AHC TBs be torqued enough to keep pressures in spec?
- Thread starter
- #38
Yeah like you said I'll just have to play around with it once I get the rig outfitted.
First of all, David, nice looking rig man.
Secondly, I have to push back a little on this, as your Land Cruiser brother. When I was in Sooke's place a year ago, I kept hearing this "it works fine but if one component fails' argument and the "and then your stuck on a trail with a suspension that doesn't work" bit. It seems to be ubiquitously passed around in any forum that mentions AHC, but I've never understood the logic...
Yes, a part of the AHC system could fail, and you have a trail problem to solve.
But could one not also say that about many parts on your engine and your engine system as well? So do we "delete engines?"
Sorry, I had to get that in there for all the AHC lovers out there....
Now there's an honest man!! I'd like to buy you a beer, Dave!I reread my comment and read your's and I admit that it is strange that I am worried about AHC when I have myself a 12HT and a 1HD-FTE ! --> 2 engines with a meager support in North America. I guess I have a lot more confidence in these bullet proof engines than in a AHC suspension system. I LOVE the 1HDFTE! It is powerful and not very frugal (13.5L/100km fully loaded). I like the automatic transmission less. For parts, regular maintenance parts (water pump, tensioner, belts, ...) are available at Toyota or from mining companies that sell 1HZ where many parts are shared. Otherwise, it will be from the overseas market with a delay. My HDJ100 replaced my HJ61 as an overland rig but I love them both equally as children.
.... now, let's go back to our regular schedule
