AHC bleed screw question

[pettr]

I am in the middle of changing out the globes on my 2001 LC when I just now hit an expected problem.
Some of the bleed screws are missing their protective caps, and now while cracking open the first one no fluid is coming out.

Leaving me with 3 questions;

1. How much should the screw be opened before fluid starts discharging? As far as I can tell this should be almost immediate, and I reached almost two full turns before I stopped.
2. Is it worth trying to unscrew it further? Or would I just end up with a really really bad time and fluid everywhere?
3. Assuming this screw is clogged due to rust and debris, what is the best course of action? Go to a shop, or try to maybe hand-drill out the duct in the screw with a similar size drillbit?

Thanks.

 

[suprarx7nut]

I am in the middle of changing out the globes on my 2001 LC when I just now hit an expected problem.
Some of the bleed screws are missing their protective caps, and now while cracking open the first one no fluid is coming out.

Leaving me with 3 questions;

1. How much should the screw be opened before fluid starts discharging? As far as I can tell this should be almost immediate, and I reached almost two full turns before I stopped.
2. Is it worth trying to unscrew it further? Or would I just end up with a really really bad time and fluid everywhere?
3. Assuming this screw is clogged due to rust and debris, what is the best course of action? Go to a shop, or try to maybe hand-drill out the duct in the screw with a similar size drillbit?

Thanks.

1. Correct. You should see flow immediately. Maybe 1/16 turn.
2. I would try to relieve any system pressure with the other side bleeder and then replace the problem bleeder screw. They're cheap and good to replace if yours are corroded. Be sure to get the caps as well. I think they're sold as separate part numbers.
3. I think this depends on what exactly is causing the lack of flow. Is the car sitting on the bumpstops, by chance? Is the system pressurized?

 

[pettr]

1. Correct. You should see flow immediately. Maybe 1/16 turn.
2. I would try to relieve any system pressure with the other side bleeder and then replace the problem bleeder screw. They're cheap and good to replace if yours are corroded. Be sure to get the caps as well. I think they're sold as separate part numbers.
3. I think this depends on what exactly is causing the lack of flow. Is the car sitting on the bumpstops, by chance? Is the system pressurized?

Great, thanks!

I'll try to relieve the pressure on one of the other sides first then. New screws and caps are on their way from Japan.
And the car is not on the bumpstops no, I put it in L just before starting; so the system is pressurized yes. Will report back with findings

 

[KillerBox]

Do you happen to have the part numbers for the screws and caps?

 

[pettr]

Do you happen to have the part numbers for the screws and caps?

49189-60010 TOYOTA PLUG, BLEEDER
49177-60010 TOYOTA CAP, BLEEDER PLUG

 

[JGRaider]

Does replacing the bleeder screws simply involve just keeping on unscrewing the nut until they come out, or what? I'm thinking I'm in the exact same situation as the OP in that there is some undercoating/corrosion present and some of the rubber covers are missing. Thanks.

 

[pettr]

Done replacing everything now.

The solution was as @suprarx7nut suggested, relieve the pressure on the opposite side and replace all screws.

The oil was completely black, and replaced with genuine toyota stuff from Impex.

One of the globes actually came off easily with the fan clutch wrench, but I had to use hammer and chisel on the other ones.

Other than some old hydraulic on the floor this was pretty straight forward, and the car rides like a cloud now. Tomorrow I'll check the pressures and get everything dialed in