AHC and aftermarket rear springs and torsion bars combo

[harshjay]

So where would one source said King Springs? I like how they are progressive, that is nice. the KTPR-70 is a raised model to offer 30-40mm over oem, still need spacers then?

Thanks everyone for the lighting quick responses, greatly appreciated.

I am not against lots of reading, and I definitely tackle 90% of mechanical jobs, so having a friendly resource is very encouraging, and really increases the vehicle satisfaction / confidence. Might seem weird, but I buy lots of oddball japanese rigs (mitsubishi U62T mini fire truck, Toyota Toyoace fire truck, Mitsu Delica), and a lot of times shop's will tell you to F off even when you have part numbers.

So having resources, and others with tons of experience is awesome. Allows me to confidently pull the alternator (had to wait three days in hotel for new alt to arrive) in a parking lot last week (we got lucky, as the morning we were 60 miles out in bush with no service, and one lane trail access), after a few forum reads, and some vids!

 

[ktmracer01]

Here's a set of King springs that most LX guys are running King KTRS-79 on Ebay. While you're at it, get yourself some 30mm spacers through Ironman, Slee, metal-tech 4x4, etc...

You'll appreciate doing the same as the other LX guys running AHC still. Especially if it comes to troubleshooting suspension stuff later... We're all running them because, they work and seem to really fit the comfort of loaded vs unloaded and allowing the AHC to maintain pressures and work efficiently.

 

[IndroCruise]

Here's a set of King springs that most LX guys are running King KTRS-79 on Ebay. While you're at it, get yourself some 30mm spacers through Ironman, Slee, metal-tech 4x4, etc...

You'll appreciate doing the same as the other LX guys running AHC still. Especially if it comes to troubleshooting suspension stuff later... We're all running them because, they work and seem to really fit the comfort of loaded vs unloaded and allowing the AHC to maintain pressures and work efficiently.

..... and/or add some airbags inside the Rear coil springs if variable capacity is required -- hold at 5 psi when unloaded to hold shape, increase pressure up to 30 psi when required for extra load capacity (easy with bike pump).

Shown below: Local version of Firestone Coilrite with additional kevlar sleeve, all inside KTRS-79 springs with airline run to a position above the tow-bar. Air could be controlled by driver inside if relevant switches and on-board compressor also are fitted.

 

[harshjay]

Here's a set of King springs that most LX guys are running King KTRS-79 on Ebay. While you're at it, get yourself some 30mm spacers through Ironman, Slee, metal-tech 4x4, etc...

You'll appreciate doing the same as the other LX guys running AHC still. Especially if it comes to troubleshooting suspension stuff later... We're all running them because, they work and seem to really fit the comfort of loaded vs unloaded and allowing the AHC to maintain pressures and work efficiently.

Got it, will do.

Just ordered a set, now to find the spacers.

Any chance you readily have a link for the techstream cable/dongle?

 

[IndroCruise]

Got it, will do.

Just ordered a set, now to find the spacers.

Any chance you readily have a link for the techstream cable/dongle?

Suggest have a look at the first few pages of How-To: TechStream In 5 Minutes':

How-To: TechStream In 5 Minutes - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/how-to-techstream-in-5-minutes.1034923/

 

[suprarx7nut]

Thanks a lot, this is great. I am just watching the video right now...but had to stop to write this..how did you get Ray Romano to do the narration?

Kidding.

I have seen King Springs come up now, and they offer a raised coil, that is supposedly 30-40mm.. would that be the ticket, and no spacer needed then?

Ha, Ray Ramano!

For King, I think they only offer one AHC coil - LEXUS LX470 UZJ100R - 4WD 1998 - 2006 - Fit your Vehicle - King Springs Automotive Aftermarket Springs - https://kingsprings.com.au/catalogue/vehicle/526/lexus-lx470-uzj100r-4wd-1998-2006

 

[harshjay]

Suggest have a look at the first few pages of How-To: TechStream In 5 Minutes':

How-To: TechStream In 5 Minutes - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/how-to-techstream-in-5-minutes.1034923/

Gotcha, done, cable ordered

 

[harshjay]

cable arrived today, followed the '5 min' steps...total like, was at least 8 minutes.

So....8 Mpa front, and 8.7 Mpa rear is high score right?

I have the sway away TB's here, so I may tackle that this weekend.

My spacers are in town, I refused delivery today, and have to go up to the industrial airport complex, to self clear my package...UPS charges me $40 to ship, then wants $40 for "brokerage fees"... on an item under $100 dollars. I hate them so much, I will waste hours of my wife's time to go an have her self clear the package.

My rear coils are coming out of Australia, so I will likely see towards the end of month.

the measured ride heights were low on all corners as well, understandably. I had it close to trail weight, but would likely be 300 lbs more with wife / food / water. I did have both steel bumpers on, so that was the biggest add lately.

This has been fun so far, thanks again all.

 

[suprarx7nut]

cable arrived today, followed the '5 min' steps...total like, was at least 8 minutes.

So....8 Mpa front, and 8.7 Mpa rear is high score right?

I have the sway away TB's here, so I may tackle that this weekend.

My spacers are in town, I refused delivery today, and have to go up to the industrial airport complex, to self clear my package...UPS charges me $40 to ship, then wants $40 for "brokerage fees"... on an item under $100 dollars. I hate them so much, I will waste hours of my wife's time to go an have her self clear the package.

My rear coils are coming out of Australia, so I will likely see towards the end of month.

the measured ride heights were low on all corners as well, understandably. I had it close to trail weight, but would likely be 300 lbs more with wife / food / water. I did have both steel bumpers on, so that was the biggest add lately.

This has been fun so far, thanks again all.

FYI, I think most people are a little low of the heights you see on here. I was, and still am. No biggie.

Those pressures though.... Phew. High score indeed!

 

[IndroCruise]

cable arrived today, followed the '5 min' steps...total like, was at least 8 minutes.

So....8 Mpa front, and 8.7 Mpa rear is high score right?

I have the sway away TB's here, so I may tackle that this weekend.

My spacers are in town, I refused delivery today, and have to go up to the industrial airport complex, to self clear my package...UPS charges me $40 to ship, then wants $40 for "brokerage fees"... on an item under $100 dollars. I hate them so much, I will waste hours of my wife's time to go an have her self clear the package.

My rear coils are coming out of Australia, so I will likely see towards the end of month.

the measured ride heights were low on all corners as well, understandably. I had it close to trail weight, but would likely be 300 lbs more with wife / food / water. I did have both steel bumpers on, so that was the biggest add lately.

This has been fun so far, thanks again all.

Congratulations on getting Techstream working in 8 minutes!! It defeated me and I defaulted to an easy-to-use ELMscan327 arrangement with a Bluetooth dongle. Good enough for AHC – but nowhere near as useful as Techstream for many other things. You are now much better equipped to sort out your vehicle.

Suspect that your King springs are coming direct from their factory?

If so, and just so you know, the Kings factory location is about 80 kilometres (50 miles) South of the Australian East Coast city of Brisbane where I live and which is the Capital of the State of Queensland. The border with another State, New South Wales, is about 40 kilometres (25 miles) further South from the factory. In New South Wales, COVID Delta is rife (by Australian standards) and all sorts of restrictions and lock-downs are in place and will be for some weeks yet.

The Kings factory and your Shipper will be doing their best to expedite the best freight arrangement to you. However, as a consequence of the current COVID-related restrictions, it is possible that some delays may be experienced, especially if freight travels via Sydney, capital of the State of New South Wales.

And yes, your AHC pressures are very high compared to FSM recommendations, and it is no wonder that your vehicle is reluctant to raise to the “HI” height setting (per your post #1) – but you have read the relevant IH8MUD posts, seen the excellent video and cheat sheet from @suprarx7nut, and also other posts, so you know all about that. If not seen already, the thread prepared by @LndXrsr at the following link also is a good all-in-one place resource on AHC matters:
The ABCs of AHC - How to Measure, Flush, and Adjust all in one place - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/the-abcs-of-ahc-how-to-measure-flush-and-adjust-all-in-one-place.1211999/

 

[harshjay]

Congratulations on getting Techstream working in 8 minutes!! It defeated me and I defaulted to an easy-to-use ELMscan327 arrangement with a Bluetooth dongle. Good enough for AHC – but nowhere near as useful as Techstream for many other things. You are now much better equipped to sort out your vehicle.

Suspect that your King springs are coming direct from their factory?

If so, and just so you know, the Kings factory location is about 80 kilometres (50 miles) South of the Australian East Coast city of Brisbane where I live and which is the Capital of the State of Queensland. The border with another State, New South Wales, is about 40 kilometres (25 miles) further South from the factory. In New South Wales, COVID Delta is rife (by Australian standards) and all sorts of restrictions and lock-downs are in place and will be for some weeks yet.

The Kings factory and your Shipper will be doing their best to expedite the best freight arrangement to you. However, as a consequence of the current COVID-related restrictions, it is possible that some delays may be experienced, especially if freight travels via Sydney, capital of the State of New South Wales.

And yes, your AHC pressures are very high compared to FSM recommendations, and it is no wonder that your vehicle is reluctant to raise to the “HI” height setting (per your post #1) – but you have read the relevant IH8MUD posts, seen the excellent video and cheat sheet from @suprarx7nut, and also other posts, so you know all about that. If not seen already, the thread prepared by @LndXrsr at the following link also is a good all-in-one place resource on AHC matters:
The ABCs of AHC - How to Measure, Flush, and Adjust all in one place - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/the-abcs-of-ahc-how-to-measure-flush-and-adjust-all-in-one-place.1211999/

Oh man, they are at my local post office, got the notice this am! Busy weekend, hope it doesn't piss on me!

 

[Fisher67]

Oh man, they are at my local post office, got the notice this am! Busy weekend, hope it doesn't piss on me!

I started with a bone stock AHC equipped 2007 LC and over the last few years have been adding armor and drawers and bumpers. As I added weight, I had to beef up the suspension to allow the AHC to work as designed. Added King Springs KTRS-79 and it became very stiff in the back with MPA below 5.5. Added more weight and it got better. When I added the armor (full Slee skid set) the pressures went up and eventually, I ran out of adjustment on the AHC paired Torsion Bars. Went to no-AHC LC torsion bars and it was good again, but the rake was not where it needed to be. (King Springs are a little shorter than stock). Added 30MM spring spacers and added a little sensor lift in the back and replaced the AHC globes and new fluid, and back to the right pressures and AHC works like a dream. I think the point I was trying to make is that there are a lot of tweaks that you can make to the system to make it work perfectly, so just keep adjusting it until you get the right balance of comfort, ride height, and rebound.

Buena suerte,

Todd

 

[harshjay]

I started with a bone stock AHC equipped 2007 LC and over the last few years have been adding armor and drawers and bumpers. As I added weight, I had to beef up the suspension to allow the AHC to work as designed. Added King Springs KTRS-79 and it became very stiff in the back with MPA below 5.5. Added more weight and it got better. When I added the armor (full Slee skid set) the pressures went up and eventually, I ran out of adjustment on the AHC paired Torsion Bars. Went to no-AHC LC torsion bars and it was good again, but the rake was not where it needed to be. (King Springs are a little shorter than stock). Added 30MM spring spacers and added a little sensor lift in the back and replaced the AHC globes and new fluid, and back to the right pressures and AHC works like a dream. I think the point I was trying to make is that there are a lot of tweaks that you can make to the system to make it work perfectly, so just keep adjusting it until you get the right balance of comfort, ride height, and rebound.

Buena suerte,

Todd

That sounds pretty where I am headed.

I have swaysway tb’s and the spacers + coils to put in. Volume change in the reservoir was still plenty healthy. Rig only has 60k miles on it too.

funny part is, this is my wife’s ride

 

[harshjay]

whilst in this thread, what is the opinion on the diff drop bracket, and uca's?

I have them, as I thought I was going to remove the AHC before getting to even see the rig, so are they worth installing? If I was to say do a sensor lift, is it worth doing them then?

 

[Eltestro]

whilst in this thread, what is the opinion on the diff drop bracket, and uca's?

I have them, as I thought I was going to remove the AHC before getting to even see the rig, so are they worth installing? If I was to say do a sensor lift, is it worth doing them then?

@ktmracer01 could definitely answer this

 

[harshjay]

@ktmracer01 could definitely answer this

I have searched his posts, and then read through the sticky TB and uca threads... looks like maybe go with the diff drop bracket, will help in H with a sensor lift....but people don't seem to like the uca's..

 

[suprarx7nut]

whilst in this thread, what is the opinion on the diff drop bracket, and uca's?

I have them, as I thought I was going to remove the AHC before getting to even see the rig, so are they worth installing? If I was to say do a sensor lift, is it worth doing them then?

Here's my take:

1. For non-AHC: Diff drop is helpful if you're going to put on a lot of miles with a lift. Some have had good reliability without it, even while lifted 2" or more. It is not needed for short term trail drives, but rather useful on the highway to reduce CV wear.
2. For non-AHC: UCAs: All common aftermarket options are a downgrade unless you need extra adjustability from a lift. Toyota OEM ball joints and bushings are the best thing you can buy.
3. AHC negates the need for a lift so number 1 and 2 are extraneous on an AHC vehicle.

IMO, there's little to no functional reason to sensor lift an AHC vehicle. .5" or something, fine, but any more than that... It doesn't allow you to run larger tires. It doesn't improve articulation. It worsens on road performance. It increase rollover likelihood on trails. It doesn't allow you to run significantly different lines or trails.

If you want to look cool, there are better ways to achieve that than a small lift on an already capable vehicle with a "lift on demand".

Additionally, there's a reason all the aftermarket non-AHC lifts are 1.5-2.5". That's about all you get out of a 100 before you start down the trail of diminishing returns. AHC conveniently gives you that lift from the factory. Beyond that, you start putting severe wear on CVs and propshafts and the geometry of everything starts to fall apart. You can overcome all that with adjustable control arms all over and extended links, etc.., but unless you're building a buggy for the Rubicon or the Hammers it's probably just all for looks. And again, there are better ways to look cool. IMO, at least.

 

[ramangain]

Here's my take:

1. For non-AHC: Diff drop is helpful if you're going to put on a lot of miles with a lift. Some have had good reliability without it, even while lifted 2" or more. It is not needed for short term trail drives, but rather useful on the highway to reduce CV wear.
2. For non-AHC: UCAs: All common aftermarket options are a downgrade unless you need extra adjustability from a lift. Toyota OEM ball joints and bushings are the best thing you can buy.
3. AHC negates the need for a lift so number 1 and 2 are extraneous on an AHC vehicle.

IMO, there's little to no functional reason to sensor lift an AHC vehicle. .5" or something, fine, but any more than that... It doesn't allow you to run larger tires. It doesn't improve articulation. It worsens on road performance. It increase rollover likelihood on trails. It doesn't allow you to run significantly different lines or trails.

If you want to look cool, there are better ways to achieve that than a small lift on an already capable vehicle with a "lift on demand".

Additionally, there's a reason all the aftermarket non-AHC lifts are 1.5-2.5". That's about all you get out of a 100 before you start down the trail of diminishing returns. AHC conveniently gives you that lift from the factory. Beyond that, you start putting severe wear on CVs and propshafts and the geometry of everything starts to fall apart. You can overcome all that with adjustable control arms all over and extended links, etc.., but unless you're building a buggy for the Rubicon or the Hammers it's probably just all for looks. And again, there are better ways to look cool. IMO, at least.

BUT ....

If you buy/install the upgrades, you can slather the rig in their stickers, providing then free advertising.

It's all about credibility, not capability. Right?

 

[harshjay]

Here's my take:

1. For non-AHC: Diff drop is helpful if you're going to put on a lot of miles with a lift. Some have had good reliability without it, even while lifted 2" or more. It is not needed for short term trail drives, but rather useful on the highway to reduce CV wear.
2. For non-AHC: UCAs: All common aftermarket options are a downgrade unless you need extra adjustability from a lift. Toyota OEM ball joints and bushings are the best thing you can buy.
3. AHC negates the need for a lift so number 1 and 2 are extraneous on an AHC vehicle.

IMO, there's little to no functional reason to sensor lift an AHC vehicle. .5" or something, fine, but any more than that... It doesn't allow you to run larger tires. It doesn't improve articulation. It worsens on road performance. It increase rollover likelihood on trails. It doesn't allow you to run significantly different lines or trails.

If you want to look cool, there are better ways to achieve that than a small lift on an already capable vehicle with a "lift on demand".

Additionally, there's a reason all the aftermarket non-AHC lifts are 1.5-2.5". That's about all you get out of a 100 before you start down the trail of diminishing returns. AHC conveniently gives you that lift from the factory. Beyond that, you start putting severe wear on CVs and propshafts and the geometry of everything starts to fall apart. You can overcome all that with adjustable control arms all over and extended links, etc.., but unless you're building a buggy for the Rubicon or the Hammers it's probably just all for looks. And again, there are better ways to look cool. IMO, at least.

THIS IS GREAT!!!

Thanks so much for the great info.

K, so no diff drop, and no UCA. Maybe I keep them around for the future (unlikely, as I really like the AHC), or try and re-sell, or return for a partial credit maybe.

I have Black Rhino wheels, with some aggressive offset, so my wheels are a smidge proud of the fenders...with a decent bump, enough to hit the stops, the sidewall can just barely kiss the fender. The sensor lift would be like 1/4-1/2" just to prevent that tiny interference. The picture is in Low.

Thanks so much for writing this all out, really helpful.

Got the front torsions swapped over to my sway away's, was wicked easy since the rig is so clean..I didn't even need to hammer off the receiver sockets, was able to wiggle off by hand. Now to log back in, and set the pre-load to get my pressure's normal..once the rear springs/spacer go in tmrw.

 

[harshjay]

BUT ....

If you buy/install the upgrades, you can slather the rig in their stickers, providing then free advertising.

It's all about credibility, not capability. Right?

Yuck, no stickers except my own thanks.