After Market Amplifier Install

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EntropyFletch

10 Year
Joined
Nov 21, 2014
Threads
9
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77
Doing research to replace the stock amp in my 2000 LC100 and I emailed Crutchfield for advice on a compact, digital 5-channel amp. Here is what they suggested. The amp isn't available till April. Before I order I wanted to get the opinion of the Mud Brain Trust! Lemme know what you think, will this work? Is it a good choice?

Clarion XC2510
Compact 5-channel amplifier — 50 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms + 300 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms

http://wwv.crutchfield.com/p_020XC2510/Clarion-XC2510.html
 
A "digital " amp? Hmmmm..... Those binaries are going to be loud! :)

Are you leaving all the stock speakers in place? I'm not sure that the factory sub is 2 ohms... But it's unlikely that it would enjoy being fed 300 watts either. If it were a 4 ohm speaker you'd still be at 150w which is probably still overkill for a factory speaker.


-G
 
I will be replacing factory door speakers very shortly. I'd like to replace the factory subs as well with a single aftermarket sub but not sure yet how to do that. 'Digital'...see? I know what I'm talking about huh?!
 
Meh, I blame Marketing....

Digital amps for digital music....blah blah, it's all analog in your ears. :)

The amp is probably fine for what you are planning (decent power for the door speakers and sub) and it looks small enough to fit where the factory one is. I'm doing a 6-channel amp, and bridging 2 of the smaller channels into a single larger mono channel for my sub. Basically, it will be a 5-channel setup very similar to what you are doing.

-G
 
Why did they recommend one that comes out in April? There are a few 5 channel amps they already carry I think...

I want to do the same thing you are doing, but I'm stuck on how to handle the 2 4" subs in the rear.
 
Slick, I need to write it up better, but I found that space to be so restrictive that I simply made my own wiring harness and now have two JL subs in the back . Ditch the idea that there is a comparable sub to fit in that space and just run longer wire all the way back. That opens up better options for sub and thus better benefits for the sound.
 
Try any of the Alpine amps... I've got a PDX-5 which fits in under the passenger seat (even without removing the old amp!)... got one cheap from fleabay
 
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1451133672.155697.webp


I am an alpine fan also but lots of good brands out there. You get what you pay for. The key to an easy install is planning. Make sure you have all the parts you need and a decent amount of time set aside.
 
ogsuv said:
View attachment 1181228

I am an alpine fan also but lots of good brands out there. You get what you pay for. The key to an easy install is planning. Make sure you have all the parts you need and a decent amount of time set aside.
Click to expand...
Same here. Alpine all the way. I have a similar sized alpine amp under my seat too. I can access all the amp controls from the back seat if I move the front seat forward. I also have an Alpine hidden in the back to run the subs.
 
I have 2 Alpine amps - one dedicated to my speakers and tweeters and another just for my sub - plus this Alpine bass control knob that allows me to adjust bass levels without going through all the settings on my head unit.
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1451184814.227747.webp
 
Just wanted to add to the collective wisdom and say thanks for all the info I have gotten out of this site.

Did the full boat update to my 99 LC. Infinity Reference speakers in both doors, and replaced both sub speakers. Infinity Reference 5350a amplifier, JVC KW-B200 head unit, back up camera.

Pretty happy with the choices. Sound is outstanding. Could use a better subwoofer if I was a teenager, but I'm not.

Big ass power wire because that's what all us Fast and Furious types need.



Found a good spot to breach the firewall. This comes out right under the glove box and makes it easy to run to the amp under the rug. Added rubber grommet and some silicone pooky to seal it up.



Amp fit just fine after removing the stock amp and brackets along with some foam ridges. And just a little carpet trimming.



Command central. This unit has a rear USB port so I bought a panel port and installed it in the blank panel lower right. Works a treat.



I also dissected my old amp to remove the connectors. Reused them to connect to the speakers and the power stuff to the head unit, so that wiring is still stock. Did run new RCA cables from the head to the amp of course.
 
Nice. Did you replace the sub in the factory location or add a box? Get some black wire loom on that power wire, you're making my eyes bleed!
 
I went with the JL Audio XD700/5v2. Compact size, but good power split. I put Polk Audio MM6501 and MM651 in the doors, and kept the stock sub (2x 4", 2 ohm). The XD700/5 has a good power split, 75Wx4 and 300Wx1 @2ohms. I wired the two subs in series, to equate to 4 ohms.

Other amps out there have too much power dedicated to the subwoofer for my liking (especially since I kept stock sub) and not enough in the F/R speakers. It has worked out to be a great sounding system, and fits with plenty of room to spare under passenger seat. Enough bass, without rattling the truck.
 
Bigtex said:
Just wanted to add to the collective wisdom and say thanks for all the info I have gotten out of this site.

Did the full boat update to my 99 LC. Infinity Reference speakers in both doors, and replaced both sub speakers. Infinity Reference 5350a amplifier, JVC KW-B200 head unit, back up camera.

Pretty happy with the choices. Sound is outstanding. Could use a better subwoofer if I was a teenager, but I'm not.

Big ass power wire because that's what all us Fast and Furious types need.



Found a good spot to breach the firewall. This comes out right under the glove box and makes it easy to run to the amp under the rug. Added rubber grommet and some silicone pooky to seal it up.
Click to expand...

You really should use a fuse near the battery for the run of the un-switched 12V to the amplifier. I dare not think what can happen in case of collision.
 
Couple questions:

1.) Did you cut the factory wiring block and just wire in with the ends?
2.) Do you think it is ok to use the factory power lead or is it necessary to run a fresh one?
3.) Does anyone make a kit that lets you connect into the harness/wiring block and just extend into wires so you can wire into a non-oem amp. (I kinda want to be able to go back to stock if I need to.)

Thanks!
 
maskinut said:
1.) Did you cut the factory wiring block and just wire in with the ends?
Click to expand...
At the factory amp under the seat, I did cut into the harness, not aware of any aftermarket harnesses. I only cut into the speaker wires though.

maskinut said:
2.) Do you think it is ok to use the factory power lead or is it necessary to run a fresh one?
Click to expand...
I'm going to say that it's necessary to run a new circuit, with fuse near the battery. It really depends on how much current the amplifier is going to draw, but almost any aftermarket will use a bit more power than factory, and as I recall, the factory wiring was still pretty small.

maskinut said:
3.) Does anyone make a kit that lets you connect into the harness/wiring block and just extend into wires so you can wire into a non-oem amp. (I kinda want to be able to go back to stock if I need to.)
Click to expand...
Not that I'm aware of, at least not at the amp. There are harnesses for behind the head unit though.
 
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