Advice welcomed on changing radiator out

[nov74fj40]

I'd take some advice on changing out a radiator on my '98. I took a look - doesn't seem to bad. Just wondering on a couple of things:

• Does the fan have to come off to get the shroud off?
• Do the lines for the trans fluid need to be undone to remove the radiator?
• Any other "difficulties" I need to be aware of specific to remove/replacing radiator?
• How much coolant do I need?
• At 200k are there any other hoses to replace other than the top and bottom radiator hoses?

Thanks

 

[agaisin]

I'd take some advice on changing out a radiator on my '98. I took a look - doesn't seem to bad. Just wondering on a couple of things:

• Does the fan have to come off to get the shroud off?
• Do the lines for the trans fluid need to be undone to remove the radiator?
• Any other "difficulties" I need to be aware of specific to remove/replacing radiator?
• How much coolant do I need?
• At 200k are there any other hoses to replace other than the top and bottom radiator hoses?

Thanks

Haven't pulled the radiator myself but just recently did the TB service (requires disconnecting at least the radiator hoses and reservoir and fan and fan shroud etc). Which brings me to ask - have you done your 180k miles timing belt? If not, this would be a good time to do it since removing the radiator and fan and shroud are part of the job anyway. Also, take a look at the fan bracket bearing and the fan clutch - those are items that at such high mileage may need replacement and you're right in there anyway.

- according to the FSM you do need to remove the fan and shroud. From personal experience I can't imagine removing the shroud without the fan. However in theory I guess I could see removing the radiator without removing the shroud or fan?

- The transmission cooler lines do need to be disconnected from the radiator.

- Capacity according to the FSM is ~16quarts. I think I only needed ~3 Gallons to refill.

- As far as other hoses to replace I would inspect the other hoses to see what condition they are in and replace as needed. Or if you're a perfectionist you could order them all up and replace them if the price is within your pain threshold.

- (tip 1) Personally I find the purpose made hose clamp pliers very helpful, and I find pick tools to be handy in getting the hoses off.

- (tip 2) To get the hoses back on, some people use soapy water, dielectric grease, spit. I know some people also use grease but that apparently is not recommended for numerous reasons - I don't know if dielectric grease is better, but soapy water or spit should do and would have no ill effects.

- (tip 3) Obvious, but I'll mention it. If you're disconnecting the transmission cooler lines, make sure to refill properly (i.e. following FSM instructions with vehicle level and fluid at coorect temperature when measuring for full) afterwards.

- (tip 4) Another potential tip, they do sell (radiator) hose clamps that you could consider using to minimize the amount of fluids you need to replace. Alternatively, if the tranny fluid and coolant haven't been replaced recently you could take this opportunity to do a thorough drain and refill to get fresh fluids in there.

- (tip 5) Oh, for tips removing the fan.. the fan moves while you're trying to use a wrench to loosen (and tighten) the nuts. I used a second wrench in the opposite direction on the next nut over - this works perfect for all but the last one (still works for last but not as perfect since you need to retighten one of the others for leverage.. but it comes loose easier the second time since it wasn't fully tightened). Many use an old drive belt or something similar to hold the fan in place. There are other tricks but a second wrench worked for me. Also, for removing the fan and shroud - I think a lot of people pull out both together for ease/convenience. Personally I was able to get out the fan and then the shroud separately but I've seen others say pulling out both together is easier.

 

[nov74fj40]

agaisin, big thanks on the radiator change advice!

I appreciate you taking the time to respond. I'm going to take your advice on the fluid change. Not sure I need to change the timing belt again....never did much beyond drive on the highway from 100k to 200k. Thanks again.

 

[Skidoo]

If you have the external trans oil cooler you might get by without disconnecting lines.

 

[scottm]

- (tip 1) Personally I find the purpose made hose clamp pliers very helpful, and I find pick tools to be handy in getting the hoses off.

I sharpened an old screwdriver to a dull point, bent the end 90-degrees, makes a great pick for sliding between the hose and hose nipple to loose hoses. You can buy picks like that for removing hoses, but they tend to be smaller than I'd like.

- (tip 2) To get the hoses back on, some people use soapy water, dielectric grease, spit. I know some people also use grease but that apparently is not recommended for numerous reasons - I don't know if dielectric grease is better, but soapy water or spit should do and would have no ill effects.

Dielectric grease or plumbers grease are specifically called out for O-rings, work great on heater hoses.

 

[agaisin]

I sharpened an old screwdriver to a dull point, bent the end 90-degrees, makes a great pick for sliding between the hose and hose nipple to loose hoses. You can buy picks like that for removing hoses, but they tend to be smaller than I'd like.

They do also make purpose built radiator hose picks - I just used the smaller generic type though and still found them helpful.

Dielectric grease or plumbers grease are specifically called out for O-rings, work great on heater hoses.

I'm not claiming any of these are correct, just wanted to raise the potential issues I was referring to and see if you or anyone else can confirm or deny:

1) Generally speaking hydrocarbon based grease (like white lithium grease) is not compatible with rubber. Dielectric grease is silicone based and therefore is compatible with rubber.

2) Another issue that I've seen with grease (presumably any form) is that it could allow the hoses to come off too easily (i.e. when you least expect it) even with the clamps on. Personally I did use dielectric grease for my radiator hoses - only a small dab at the front of the hoses. I can image if someone gobbed it on it would be an issue, but with very conservative use and maybe just on the edge of the hose lip perhaps maybe it's not an issue at all.

3) The third issue I've seen with use of grease (presumably any form) is that it could contaminate whatever fluid is running through the hoses. Again if gobbed on all over the place I could see it being an issue - if dabbed on lightly on the edge I doubt this would be an issue.

Also, some other alternatives:
- silicone spray (I've used this to 'condition' weatherstripping before)
- 'personal' lubricants, apparently often used for this purpose. I'll admit, I don't care how convincing the argument is, I probably wouldn't trust a mechanic that keeps KY in their toolbox.

 

[scottm]

Plumber's grease is probably the same as dielectric, specifically for O-rings, safe for rubber hoses. Wire pulling grease is also safe, and there's a water-based version which is probably similar to KY. I've used dielectric grease liberally on my coolant hoses for many years, they do come off easier years later, but I've never had one pop off. I even overheated and blew a day-old and freshly greased hose apart without it popping off, that's a pretty good test.

I've considered the contaminant issue, but have to believe it's minimal compared to all the other contaminants in a cooling system. I've used Dow & Parker O-ring Lubes in production vacuum chambers, which are extremely sensitive to the slightest contaminants, it's basically the same as dielectric grease.

 

[bushdoctor]

Does anyone know if you can use the later model land cruiser's radiator on a previous -- for instance use the part 16400-50290 (2002-2007) on a 1998 TLC instead of part # 16400-50360?

 

[Tres Toys]

Just replaced my radiator over the weekend. If you are reasonably careful, you do not need to remove the fan or the fan shroud from the vehicle. Just unbolt the shroud from the radiator and slid it towards the motor. If you are going to do it that way, it helps if you have two assistants, one for each side on the top and one person underneath to watch for anything that may hang up when the radiator is lifted out. It also help to take the battery bracket loose and remove the plastic tray beneath it in order to give more room to take the nuts off the 'L' bracket. A really long extension is good for the bolt at the base of each 'L' bracket. Another tip is to have something at hand to temporarily plug the ends of the transmission line cooler hoses to prevent loss of fluid.(some bolts, dowels or whatever is handy). Best bet is to use a little of fluid that the hose carries for the lubricant during installation, as you don't have to worry about any fluid compatibility issues that way. I was very impressed with the fit and finish of the Denso radiator, it appears to be a clone of the original Toyota one for about half the price if you get it from Amazon or Ebay.