Advice Please! - Diff Lock button blinking! (1 Viewer)

[Malleus]

OK, here's the final update (unless something breaks in the next two weeks):

kreiten may be right. I've operated the diff lock and xfer switches daily since the first post, and no failures. However, the temperature here has been above 60° the entire time (I love January in Charlotte!).

If we get any cold weather this winter, I'll update here.

Thanks to all for their thoughts.

 

[LCHardriver_02]

Along those same lines, we have activated our diff lock multiple times over the last few weeks, with no problems. Stereo is still acting possessed, but the diff lock error has not come back. Temps have been below freezing almost constantly, with lows dipping into the single digits.

 

[Softride62]

waking up older thread, I was wheeling and 4Lo would not engage, also had the blinking diff indicator, fixed that (turn on and off ) , but could not go in to LO... turned out to be a faulty Hi/LO dash switch , $200 installed, sweet. But since no one has ever had this issue before, the part is no where in the US apparently Lucky that's all it was. But man, so far at 140K (I have to vent here for a minute ) new rear shaft (got rid of thunk) new radiator, new starter, new alternator, new fuel sending unit and fuel pump... makes me miss the 100 and the 60. By the way, this vehicle is a highway cruiser and has only been in sand twice and Hidden Falls once... Anyone else have this much go wrong on their 200? It may just be a 2008 issue??

 

[TonyP]

waking up older thread, I was wheeling and 4Lo would not engage, also had the blinking diff indicator, fixed that (turn on and off ) , but could not go in to LO... turned out to be a faulty Hi/LO dash switch , $200 installed, sweet. But since no one has ever had this issue before, the part is no where in the US apparently Lucky that's all it was. But man, so far at 140K (I have to vent here for a minute ) new rear shaft (got rid of thunk) new radiator, new starter, new alternator, new fuel sending unit and fuel pump... makes me miss the 100 and the 60. By the way, this vehicle is a highway cruiser and has only been in sand twice and Hidden Falls once... Anyone else have this much go wrong on their 200? It may just be a 2008 issue??

I'm at 105k and only a seatbelt sensor and cam tower leak. My drivers side headlight flickers quite a bit. Might just be the bulb. I haven't gotten around to fixing it yet

 

[LC2015]

Now that the weather is cooling down, I'm having this same issue on my 2015 again.

On cold starts, once in a while my diff lock light blinks, and doesn't resolve until vehicle is warmed up and then restarted. During that time nothing 4wd related will work (4lo, diff lock, terrain select, etc). Once the light turns off everything works fine.

Did anyone figure out this issue?

Last week I engaged 4low and the differential lock on a dirt road to see if that would prevent this from happening, but it started blinking again this week.

 

[swiftie]

This might help; plus pdf of manual attached (EU spec sorry but if yiou go onto the Toyoyta site you can download a US spec)

 

[TeCKis300]

Now that the weather is cooling down, I'm having this same issue on my 2015 again.

On cold starts, once in a while my diff lock light blinks, and doesn't resolve until vehicle is warmed up and then restarted. During that time nothing 4wd related will work (4lo, diff lock, terrain select, etc). Once the light turns off everything works fine.

Did anyone figure out this issue?

Last week I engaged 4low and the differential lock on a dirt road to see if that would prevent this from happening, but it started blinking again this week.

Yes, solution below. Contrary to popular belief, the issue is not in the heavy actuation hardware / transfer case oil, but the smaller electromechanical components of the actuator. Regular actuation and exercising will help these parts. Opening and cleaning the switching mechanisms can make for a longer term difference/fix.

Transfer Case Tuneup and Fix

Transfer case actuator issues are not uncommon on the 200-series. Not much documented solutions other than exercising the mechanisms regularly. Here's my attempt to provide more information on where and what the actuator is, how to service the transfer case actuator motor, and potentially...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[jtownse6]

Short update:

Made sure the engine temp was up, drove a couple of miles to warm everything up. No change in xfer case ops.

Disconnected the battery. This resulted in nothing more than a cleaner battery terminal (which wasn't all bad, but didn't help the stated problem).

Did finally get the 4Lo switch to engage/disengage, but not repeatably. Diff lock indicator still only blinks.

I know this is an old post but I’m having the same issue. Blinking diff light won’t clear off the dash, and no functions between buttons. Did you ever fix this issue, or even get the light off? Thanks!!

 

[Malleus]

I know this is an old post but I’m having the same issue. Blinking diff light won’t clear off the dash, and no functions between buttons. Did you ever fix this issue, or even get the light off? Thanks!!

Yes, this is an old post, and a current problem (I'm still very unhappy about this). I believe, but have not verified by removing the xfer case, that the root cause is the range indicator switch mounting bracket. The dealership refuses to admit there's a recall on this part, although I saw it published once and then lost it, so I can't argue with them.

The problem is exacerbated by the fact the the mounting bolts (2) are inside the case, not outside as they should be. This is why I haven't been able to verify the root cause yet, since I haven't taken the time to drop the xmsn/xfer to split them and personally look at teh swtich and its mounting.

Since what I believe is happening, and this is based on the recall notice I read, is that the switch is loose and falls out of position, there is no way to resolve the problem reliably, since you can't get at the back side of the switch. My failures happen 100% of the time in weather when the temperature is below 40°, and at any temperature when I haven't used the xfer in a few weeks. My remedy is to drive, forward and reverse several times, to get the switch to move enough to "see" the target and move the sleeve from Lo to Hi, and makes S-turns until the VSC indicator quits nagging me.

Driving seems to eventually resolve the problem, but if you're stuck in 4Lo, and on pavement, that really doesn't help you.

I understand that's not exactly helpful, but it's all I have.

 

[jtownse6]

Yes, this is an old post, and a current problem (I'm still very unhappy about this). I believe, but have not verified by removing the xfer case, that the root cause is the range indicator switch mounting bracket. The dealership refuses to admit there's a recall on this part, although I saw it published once and then lost it, so I can't argue with them.

The problem is exacerbated by the fact the the mounting bolts (2) are inside the case, not outside as they should be. This is why I haven't been able to verify the root cause yet, since I haven't taken the time to drop the xmsn/xfer to split them and personally look at teh swtich and its mounting.

Since what I believe is happening, and this is based on the recall notice I read, is that the switch is loose and falls out of position, there is no way to resolve the problem reliably, since you can't get at the back side of the switch. My failures happen 100% of the time in weather when the temperature is below 40°, and at any temperature when I haven't used the xfer in a few weeks. My remedy is to drive, forward and reverse several times, to get the switch to move enough to "see" the target and move the sleeve from Lo to Hi, and makes S-turns until the VSC indicator quits nagging me.

Driving seems to eventually resolve the problem, but if you're stuck in 4Lo, and on pavement, that really doesn't help you.

I understand that's not exactly helpful, but it's all I have.

I appreciate your info!! I think that’s good insight! I’m going to screen shot it all and save so I can relay that info to a mechanic that might be able to help me out. Like you mentioned, I wish Toyota would just admit to needing a recall on this failure as I’m sure it’ll be a $$ fix if anything has to be replaced. Also not happy that since owning this thing I haven’t been able to get the center diffs to lock, ever. I haven’t “needed” it to work yet but when you pay X amount for a truck, you want everything to function properly. Thanks for letting me vent!

 

[Malleus]

I appreciate your info!! I think that’s good insight! I’m going to screen shot it all and save so I can relay that info to a mechanic that might be able to help me out. Like you mentioned, I wish Toyota would just admit to needing a recall on this failure as I’m sure it’ll be a $$ fix if anything has to be replaced. Also not happy that since owning this thing I haven’t been able to get the center diffs to lock, ever. I haven’t “needed” it to work yet but when you pay X amount for a truck, you want everything to function properly. Thanks for letting me vent!

As to Toyota admitting there is a problem, I have anecdotal evidence that the mounting design was changed during the series update and can be retrofitted to fix older 200 sereis models. I'm still searching for the recall notice.

 

[TeCKis300]

I appreciate your info!! I think that’s good insight! I’m going to screen shot it all and save so I can relay that info to a mechanic that might be able to help me out. Like you mentioned, I wish Toyota would just admit to needing a recall on this failure as I’m sure it’ll be a $$ fix if anything has to be replaced. Also not happy that since owning this thing I haven’t been able to get the center diffs to lock, ever. I haven’t “needed” it to work yet but when you pay X amount for a truck, you want everything to function properly. Thanks for letting me vent!

I'd encourage you to look at the link in post #27. It's likely the root issue you're facing.

I dealt with the same thing as everyone else for multiple seasons. As winter came, occasional issues with blinking diff light in dash. This got progressively worse. To the point that I could not actuate the diff lock consistently, and at some point, at all. It's plausible it's the heavy switching hardware, but it's more likely the electromechanical actuators. Since my fix, I have not had one issue pop up. I have used the mechanisms over and over off-roading, and many times this past weekend, and it was nothing but confidence inspiring in its actuation. Nothing is more frustrating than off-road and not able to leverage the tools readily.

In my research, this issue doesn't just affect the 200-series. The Tundra, 4Runner, Taco's, likely all using similar architectures and mechanisms deal with this too. The 200-series seems to have had at least 3 major revisions in its actuators judging from the repair manuals. Maybe Toyota knows what's up and the newer models may be less impacted?

Wiper contact need to be physically cleaned of any corrosion. Micro-switches may have corrosion that need to be cleaning. Motor could use a flush with CRC cleaner. And hopefully there was no water/moisture intrusion to destroy the electronics.

 

[linuxgod]

My failures happen 100% of the time in weather when the temperature is below 40°, and at any temperature when I haven't used the xfer in a few weeks.

This is my experience as well, though I've had it happen even when I've recently used the transfer case too (though lack of use does seem to increase the likelihood). When it happens for me, it's instantaneous on vehicle start - within a second of the engine turning over the CDL flashes. I've noticed a few things about this though:

• The flashing is faster than if you push the CDL button but the actuator can't yet engage. The latter is a notice that you need to drive straight, whereas this is basically a "failure".
• The flashing will not go away while driving the vehicle. Doesn't matter if I drive 100 miles.
• Pushing the CDL and trying to engage 4Lo will fail. Again it doesn't matter how far I've driven, once this happens they will not work, until...
• Once the drivetrain has warmed up a bit (~5 minutes or so of driving, not just idling) turning the truck OFF and then starting it again will almost always clear the flashing, at which point the CDL and 4Lo work as expected.

That said, I think there are a few failure modes with the transfer case that people may conflate. My experience is that the issue will go away once everything has warmed up. However I've witnessed someone on a trail in 4Lo try to engage the CDL and end up with it flashing but not working, and then be unable to disengage 4Lo. I don't know if the latter was more of a lack of use issue, and after several attempts to engage/disengage the CDL and 4Lo as well as some vehicle restarts it eventually cleared.

As to Toyota admitting there is a problem, I have anecdotal evidence that the mounting design was changed during the series update and can be retrofitted to fix older 200 sereis models.

I believe Toyota changed transfer case suppliers to Borg-Warner starting with the 2013 MY. So it's possible there was a redesign of some internal components at that point. Certainly the recommended fluid changed at that point. That said I think we've all seen flashing CDL issues on various years of vehicles, so I don't believe this issue is fixed in any recent models. (Though perhaps a poll might be in order)

 

[linuxgod]

I'd encourage you to look at the link in post #27. It's likely the root issue you're facing.

I dealt with the same thing as everyone else for multiple seasons. As winter came, occasional issues with blinking diff light in dash. This got progressively worse. To the point that I could not actuate the diff lock consistently, and at some point, at all. It's plausible it's the heavy switching hardware, but it's more likely the electromechanical actuators. Since my fix, I have not had one issue pop up. I have used the mechanisms over and over off-roading, and many times this past weekend, and it was nothing but confidence inspiring in its actuation. Nothing is more frustrating than off-road and not able to leverage the tools readily.

I'm curious to see if your fix holds after a couple years. I was getting the flashing CDL issues regularly too. After 2 fluid changes (first one I think replaced the original 75W LF at 60k with 75W90, and the second one replaced that with 75W Ravenol at 90k) my issue went away for probably 12-18 months - to the point where I'd gone through a winter without it flashing and I thought I was in the clear. Then it started again.

I've got about 20k on my transfer case fluid now. The flashing started again around 16k-17k, I think. Perhaps if I did it every 15k with new 75W Ravenol I'd never have this issue again? I change it every 30k (lots of towing, as you know). Oddly when my issue came back I'd just used the CDL like a day or two beforehand and it was fine.

This particular gremlin just comes and goes as it sees fit. If mine gets to be annoying I will end up pulling mine apart like you did, but for the moment it's reliable enough (and the recovery method from failure seems to be consistent enough) that I'm waiting.

 

[TeCKis300]

I'm curious to see if your fix holds after a couple years. I was getting the flashing CDL issues regularly too. After 2 fluid changes (first one I think replaced the original 75W LF at 60k with 75W90, and the second one replaced that with 75W Ravenol at 90k) my issue went away for probably 12-18 months - to the point where I'd gone through a winter without it flashing and I thought I was in the clear. Then it started again.

I've got about 20k on my transfer case fluid now. The flashing started again around 16k-17k, I think. Perhaps if I did it every 15k with new 75W Ravenol I'd never have this issue again? I change it every 30k (lots of towing, as you know). Oddly when my issue came back I'd just used the CDL like a day or two beforehand and it was fine.

This particular gremlin just comes and goes as it sees fit. If mine gets to be annoying I will end up pulling mine apart like you did, but for the moment it's reliable enough (and the recovery method from failure seems to be consistent enough) that I'm waiting.

Likewise, I'm watching it too to see if it will hold for the long term. It's giving me more confidence than not at this point.

I flushed my transfer case oil using Mobil 75W-90 probably 3 seasons back hoping for a fix. Seemed to help along with regular use of the actuators, but it wasn't a long term fix for me and eventually degraded where I couldn't use without a CEL.

Part of what I noticed when examining the electronics is that the actuator motors were sluggish when bench testing. I think this was a somewhat separate but big part to my inconsistent actuation even without MIL or flashing error lights. After cleaning the motors, bench testing showed much stronger torque. In use after, it was much much speedier and consistent in actuation. I likewise previously got in situations where I couldn't get in or out of lock without a couple tries even turning off the motor to start again.

I say somewhat separate in that the root cause still likely starts with corrosion on the wiper switch. This results in lower voltage to the motor where the motor compensates by drawing more current. Which further leads to more arcing, pitting, and corrosion on the wiper switches and motor commutator. I strongly believe a thorough cleaning or replacement is the long term solution.

 

[jtownse6]

I'd encourage you to look at the link in post #27. It's likely the root issue you're facing.

I dealt with the same thing as everyone else for multiple seasons. As winter came, occasional issues with blinking diff light in dash. This got progressively worse. To the point that I could not actuate the diff lock consistently, and at some point, at all. It's plausible it's the heavy switching hardware, but it's more likely the electromechanical actuators. Since my fix, I have not had one issue pop up. I have used the mechanisms over and over off-roading, and many times this past weekend, and it was nothing but confidence inspiring in its actuation. Nothing is more frustrating than off-road and not able to leverage the tools readily.

In my research, this issue doesn't just affect the 200-series. The Tundra, 4Runner, Taco's, likely all using similar architectures and mechanisms deal with this too. The 200-series seems to have had at least 3 major revisions in its actuators judging from the repair manuals. Maybe Toyota knows what's up and the newer models may be less impacted?

Wiper contact need to be physically cleaned of any corrosion. Micro-switches may have corrosion that need to be cleaning. Motor could use a flush with CRC cleaner. And hopefully there was no water/moisture intrusion to destroy the electronics.

View attachment 2594003

I read your old post where you fixed this problem last night! Thank you for this info! Is this something I’d be able to show a 4x4/Toyota shop and have them try to replicate? Is it simple work or will they be hesitant to try/charge me crazy amounts to do it in your opinion? Thanks so much!

 

[TeCKis300]

I read your old post where you fixed this problem last night! Thank you for this info! Is this something I’d be able to show a 4x4/Toyota shop and have them try to replicate? Is it simple work or will they be hesitant to try/charge me crazy amounts to do it in your opinion? Thanks so much!

It's going to come down to the individual tech and how comfortable they are with small parts/electronics repair. Nothing about it is particularly hard IMO, and with enough patience, should be doable. Feel free to show them the thread as it's a pretty detailed walkthrough. Hopefully they can give you some level of confidence in their abilities before agreeing to do any work.

 

[Reckless]

As to Toyota admitting there is a problem, I have anecdotal evidence that the mounting design was changed during the series update and can be retrofitted to fix older 200 sereis models. I'm still searching for the recall notice.

Any luck finding recall notice? Its 65 F here in chicago and my diff light just started flashing today. I restarted 2-3 times it went away a few hours of rest.

 

[Malleus]

Any luck finding recall notice? Its 65 F here in chicago and my diff light just started flashing today. I restarted 2-3 times it went away a few hours of rest.

None

 

[bentonrover]

Not sure if the transfercase ground strap was mentioned. They definitely rust through in the rust/salt belt.